rocker arm ratio
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 30,341
Likes: 9
From: Cambridge, Ont. Canada
Re: rocker arm ratio
There are no rocker arms bro. The cams sit right atop the lifters and actuate them directly, which in turn actuates the valves. No need for rockers or pushrods.
See attached pic:
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>
218836-valves and camshaft.jpg
See attached pic:
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red> <font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>
218836-valves and camshaft.jpg
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: rocker arm ratio
DOHC engines are set up with the cam directly hitting a lift on top of the valve. A lot of 4-valve SOHC engines, like SOHC Hondas and Toyotas, will still use rockers to actuate valve lifters. I have never seen an aftermarket higher ratio rocker for these applications.
When ooking at cams, you need to look at other factors instead. How much engine modification are you going to have, in partticularly headwork? Is it NA or forced induction? Are you going to keep the stock compression? How much of a change in driveability are you willing ot accept? Last, are you just bolting in the cams or are they going to be tuned ( for the variable timing) in the ECU?
Forced induction likes lots of lift, but little ovelap and not long duration. NA enigines like duration and more lift, but not a lot more lift unless the compression is increased and/or there is substantual headwork. Last, the longer the duration, the worse the idle and low speed driveability.
I have a set of the early hi-lift 264 JWT billets in my Maxima and they lope badly. Before the ECU was reprogrammed, the car had no power below 3500 rpms, would jerk in acceleration below 2000 rpms and would stall whenever I lifted off throttle. Without the major ECU tuning, they were simply not streetable. Power below 3500 rpms is still noticeably lower than stock. From 3500 to 5000 rpms it just feels like stock. Above 5000 rpms to the 7600 rpm limiter, they come on hard and pull very hard like a small shot of NOS or hitting boost hard. Even after tuning, there is a healthy lope at idle even at 950 rpms. We did drop the compression a little over a point so, it will amply the low speed charactistics of the cams some.
The 260 degree JWT cams for the VQ35 are a lot milder and a lot more streetable without ECU tuning. The seem to not have teh low end power loss and a much better idle. Don't start out big unless you are willing on living what what goes with them.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
When ooking at cams, you need to look at other factors instead. How much engine modification are you going to have, in partticularly headwork? Is it NA or forced induction? Are you going to keep the stock compression? How much of a change in driveability are you willing ot accept? Last, are you just bolting in the cams or are they going to be tuned ( for the variable timing) in the ECU?
Forced induction likes lots of lift, but little ovelap and not long duration. NA enigines like duration and more lift, but not a lot more lift unless the compression is increased and/or there is substantual headwork. Last, the longer the duration, the worse the idle and low speed driveability.
I have a set of the early hi-lift 264 JWT billets in my Maxima and they lope badly. Before the ECU was reprogrammed, the car had no power below 3500 rpms, would jerk in acceleration below 2000 rpms and would stall whenever I lifted off throttle. Without the major ECU tuning, they were simply not streetable. Power below 3500 rpms is still noticeably lower than stock. From 3500 to 5000 rpms it just feels like stock. Above 5000 rpms to the 7600 rpm limiter, they come on hard and pull very hard like a small shot of NOS or hitting boost hard. Even after tuning, there is a healthy lope at idle even at 950 rpms. We did drop the compression a little over a point so, it will amply the low speed charactistics of the cams some.
The 260 degree JWT cams for the VQ35 are a lot milder and a lot more streetable without ECU tuning. The seem to not have teh low end power loss and a much better idle. Don't start out big unless you are willing on living what what goes with them.
04' G35 Coupe 6-sp
Diamond Graphite/Willow w/Premium
Re: rocker arm ratio
maybe you can help me decide which cams we should use. We are swapping in 11.5:1 CR pistons, forged rods and cams first. Eventually we plan on doing some headwork, but I am not sure the extent of it yet. We were looking at 256's, 260's, 264's, and 268's. My friend does not want to loose much streetability, but he wants to maximize the power of an NA engine. Does anyone have any suggestions as far as experience with any of these cams, or what would be the best option for his setup. Also, what engine management would you suggest with this setup, that is able to raise the redline as well? My friend told me that you cannot take out the stock ecu or the car wont start (some kind of security feature) is this true? Thanks for all the info.
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