Oil Temp: How hot is too hot?
#1
Oil Temp: How hot is too hot?
I recently installed oil and water temp gauges and have not been able to find what stock temps are let alone an FI car.
My oil temps when I climb a steep grade for about 2-3 miles on a hot day goes past 260 F and I have an oil cooler (I'm FI though). Can anyone else confirm these temps whether your NA or FI?
I really contribute our oil temps rising so hot from the heat exchanger when radiator temps are running so hot... (newer cars like this for "cleaner emissions")
Today, in cooler weather at 8pm with some light crusing & AC on and in city driving no faster than 35 mph, I hit 227 F Water Temps (stock radiator).
My stock water temp gauge is always happy dead center. When its a hair below dead center I noted that it is about 200 degrees and once you go past 210 to 230 it seems to stay dead center.
I'll do some more heavy driving and do an update of the temperatures.... but in the meantime, if you have any temp gauges installed... what temps to do you see FI or NA???
Cruising? Canyon Carving? Track Driving?
How hot is too hot? Factory gauges all seem happy in dead center is the sad part.
I have heard that while synthetic oil is still fine at temps over 300 F. Your oil weight may get too thin to truly protect and lubricate above 260ish or 270ish... also, I have also heard that at 290 F you may be causing accelerated wear and tear on your rings and valves, etc.... Can anyone confirm this?
Additionally, you take a search on the Vette Forums and they all seem to run around 290s oil temp on any track day... isn't that bad?
My oil temps when I climb a steep grade for about 2-3 miles on a hot day goes past 260 F and I have an oil cooler (I'm FI though). Can anyone else confirm these temps whether your NA or FI?
I really contribute our oil temps rising so hot from the heat exchanger when radiator temps are running so hot... (newer cars like this for "cleaner emissions")
Today, in cooler weather at 8pm with some light crusing & AC on and in city driving no faster than 35 mph, I hit 227 F Water Temps (stock radiator).
My stock water temp gauge is always happy dead center. When its a hair below dead center I noted that it is about 200 degrees and once you go past 210 to 230 it seems to stay dead center.
I'll do some more heavy driving and do an update of the temperatures.... but in the meantime, if you have any temp gauges installed... what temps to do you see FI or NA???
Cruising? Canyon Carving? Track Driving?
How hot is too hot? Factory gauges all seem happy in dead center is the sad part.
I have heard that while synthetic oil is still fine at temps over 300 F. Your oil weight may get too thin to truly protect and lubricate above 260ish or 270ish... also, I have also heard that at 290 F you may be causing accelerated wear and tear on your rings and valves, etc.... Can anyone confirm this?
Additionally, you take a search on the Vette Forums and they all seem to run around 290s oil temp on any track day... isn't that bad?
#2
Coolant should never exceed 200F as above that the ecu begins to reduce ignition advance to protect engine.
Remember oil viscosity is speced at 212F [100C] so anything above 240F is thin indeed.
Unfortunately the oil sump is an average and does show where piston ring oil or bearing oil actually peaks, which may be 60-80F HOTTER than sump average.
Remember oil viscosity is speced at 212F [100C] so anything above 240F is thin indeed.
Unfortunately the oil sump is an average and does show where piston ring oil or bearing oil actually peaks, which may be 60-80F HOTTER than sump average.
#3
Originally Posted by Q45tech
Coolant should never exceed 200F as above that the ecu begins to reduce ignition advance to protect engine.
Remember oil viscosity is speced at 212F [100C] so anything above 240F is thin indeed.
Unfortunately the oil sump is an average and does show where piston ring oil or bearing oil actually peaks, which may be 60-80F HOTTER than sump average.
Remember oil viscosity is speced at 212F [100C] so anything above 240F is thin indeed.
Unfortunately the oil sump is an average and does show where piston ring oil or bearing oil actually peaks, which may be 60-80F HOTTER than sump average.
My oil sender is mounted off of a sandwich between oil filter... so its right off of the oil pump on its way to oil cooler (before cooler temps... so I don't know what temp the oil is "re-entering the system" from the oil cooler). Where do you think is the best place for oil temp sender?
#4
[QUOTE=Q45tech]Coolant should never exceed 200F as above that the ecu begins to reduce ignition advance to protect engine.
QUOTE]
I have also heard of that... but lately, and if anyone can confirm, please chime in... I have also heard that newer cars with ULEV runs hotter than 200F just to keep the emissions cleaner...
Is there any truth to this? Q45tech or any Nissan/Infiniti tech confirm the normal operating temps of our G35s?
QUOTE]
I have also heard of that... but lately, and if anyone can confirm, please chime in... I have also heard that newer cars with ULEV runs hotter than 200F just to keep the emissions cleaner...
Is there any truth to this? Q45tech or any Nissan/Infiniti tech confirm the normal operating temps of our G35s?
#5
UPDATE:
I've just installed a different oil temp gauge and sender to confirm the temperatures. Maybe a nice run this weekend to get the temps up. The sender/gauge I am currently using "may" be defective... so possibly causing the high readings. We'll see what the second setup reads.
In the meantime, if anyone else has concrete numbers from gauges they installed, post your temps so we get an idea of where it should be.
I've just installed a different oil temp gauge and sender to confirm the temperatures. Maybe a nice run this weekend to get the temps up. The sender/gauge I am currently using "may" be defective... so possibly causing the high readings. We'll see what the second setup reads.
In the meantime, if anyone else has concrete numbers from gauges they installed, post your temps so we get an idea of where it should be.
#6
Originally Posted by Q45tech
Coolant should never exceed 200F as above that the ecu begins to reduce ignition advance to protect engine.
Remember oil viscosity is speced at 212F [100C] so anything above 240F is thin indeed.
Unfortunately the oil sump is an average and does show where piston ring oil or bearing oil actually peaks, which may be 60-80F HOTTER than sump average.
Remember oil viscosity is speced at 212F [100C] so anything above 240F is thin indeed.
Unfortunately the oil sump is an average and does show where piston ring oil or bearing oil actually peaks, which may be 60-80F HOTTER than sump average.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by Canadian
Well, my coolant in the summer gets 220+ everyday. I saw 250-260 temps on Sunday. It sucks
Recently looked up in Nissan Tech book and it stated we have a 170 Degree Thermostat. Starts to open at 170 and fully opens at around 190 if I remember correctly.
Canadian, are you sure your gauge is operating correctly? What brand? That does sound really high like a defective gauge if your factory is still dead center... Anyone else on this?
#9
Originally Posted by drsifu1
oil temp in hot weather and idling in traffic never goes aboe 220 F.
while driving, oil temp is between 140-180.
APS ST...about 15,000 miles on FI. no cooler.
i don't have a water temp, so idea to that question
while driving, oil temp is between 140-180.
APS ST...about 15,000 miles on FI. no cooler.
i don't have a water temp, so idea to that question
The highest I saw my oil temps hit was 223 F even while idling and climbing up the grades with AC (I do have an Earl's 16" x 7.5" x 2" thick oil cooler too).
When cruising and not stuck in traffic I never saw it below 210 F once the oil got up to temp.
The outside weather during yesterday's test all day was between 72-89 F according to our outside temp gauge.
I'll get back to you guys when I get this thing out to the track to see how much higher the temps get during sustained heavy loads for 30 min sessions. I wander how high my oil got before oil cooler (installed gauges and cooler at same time when I got word of how high TTRANK's temps were getting during fwy cruise).
Don't you think your oil could be too low temp between 140-180 and not get to its full viscosity and also not cooking off any moisture? I know you said you don't have an oil cooler... but wow... that's low...
Thanks for all your inputs everyone so far... Anyone else with an aftermarket oil or water temp gauge... chime in and let us know what you're running at whether NA or FI
Last edited by FiveSeven SS190; 07-04-2008 at 02:01 PM.
#10
#11
Originally Posted by speedgeek
05 G35 coupe 6mt NA with lots of boltons
Oil sandwich plate w/ taps for Oil Press & Temp
Hard driving toped mine at 225 F, but normal spirited driving sits between 210 and 220 F
New V2 motor w/ 3500 miles
Oil sandwich plate w/ taps for Oil Press & Temp
Hard driving toped mine at 225 F, but normal spirited driving sits between 210 and 220 F
New V2 motor w/ 3500 miles
Looks like our temps match pretty closely then and temp sender mounted in the same place. I'll get it out for some hard laps soon here to see what it gets too. I'm glad my FI setup with oil cooler seems to be running what your NA bolt ons are...
Good info for all. Keep adding people if you have gauges...
#12
Originally Posted by FiveSeven SS190
Hmm... That does sound high for Water Temps... I am going to pull my water temp gauge off this weekend and drop the probe in boiling water to see if its running right too...
Recently looked up in Nissan Tech book and it stated we have a 170 Degree Thermostat. Starts to open at 170 and fully opens at around 190 if I remember correctly.
Canadian, are you sure your gauge is operating correctly? What brand? That does sound really high like a defective gauge if your factory is still dead center... Anyone else on this?
Recently looked up in Nissan Tech book and it stated we have a 170 Degree Thermostat. Starts to open at 170 and fully opens at around 190 if I remember correctly.
Canadian, are you sure your gauge is operating correctly? What brand? That does sound really high like a defective gauge if your factory is still dead center... Anyone else on this?
#13
Canadian,
What pressure is your radiator cap rated at? Is it new? I know you probably addressed this already, but am just trying to think it out why it is up so high without boiling over?
What mixture of water to coolant do you have in radiator? Stock Radiator? Also, do you have a Water Wetter in the radiator too?
Haven't had the chance to pull probe off and boil it to see if my gauge is correct... I still think mine is incorrect because my water temps do sit dead center to a hair lower than center on the factory gauge.
What pressure is your radiator cap rated at? Is it new? I know you probably addressed this already, but am just trying to think it out why it is up so high without boiling over?
What mixture of water to coolant do you have in radiator? Stock Radiator? Also, do you have a Water Wetter in the radiator too?
Haven't had the chance to pull probe off and boil it to see if my gauge is correct... I still think mine is incorrect because my water temps do sit dead center to a hair lower than center on the factory gauge.
#14
Originally Posted by FiveSeven SS190
Canadian,
What pressure is your radiator cap rated at? Is it new? I know you probably addressed this already, but am just trying to think it out why it is up so high without boiling over?
What mixture of water to coolant do you have in radiator? Stock Radiator? Also, do you have a Water Wetter in the radiator too?
Haven't had the chance to pull probe off and boil it to see if my gauge is correct... I still think mine is incorrect because my water temps do sit dead center to a hair lower than center on the factory gauge.
What pressure is your radiator cap rated at? Is it new? I know you probably addressed this already, but am just trying to think it out why it is up so high without boiling over?
What mixture of water to coolant do you have in radiator? Stock Radiator? Also, do you have a Water Wetter in the radiator too?
Haven't had the chance to pull probe off and boil it to see if my gauge is correct... I still think mine is incorrect because my water temps do sit dead center to a hair lower than center on the factory gauge.
Yes, I am on stock radiator. I did have water wetter in there a year ago, but I had a coolant leak for a while (had to fill up like everyday for 2 weeks) so most likely its not there anymore. The factory gauge SUCKS.
For example, normal temperatures will mean my factory gauge is just below center (every car from Nissan/Infiniti does this from what I've seen). My aftermarket gauge will be at about 140-150 when my factory gauge gets to the normal point. It will remain at that exact same spot until water temp gets to 230+ from what I've seen. When I was at the track last November, my aftermarket gauge was seeing temps at 260ish. When it was this high, my stock gauge was about 95% of the way to the top. Last weekend when driving for about an hour and a half in 110+ weather on the freeway and some stop and go traffic I got to about 250. You don't need to worry about me or try to figure out why it does it, because I already know the reason.
My turbos are water cooled, so coolant will obviously run a lot hotter considering how hot turbos get. Since I am on 100% stock cooling system, I need to just do every upgrade possible. I plan on doing this soon as soon as I get a radiator - I just don't know which to buy. I am waiting on an answer from Scott @ Relentless Autosports to get one.
#15
Well, with what you have said, I probably don't need to confirm my sender probe as "defective". Very Good Info to share Canadian. My Questionable gauge/sender says the water temps this weekend was 240+ F in traffic and the factory gauge was still a hair below dead center.
Sounds like it should be rising above dead center according to your notes.
Keep us posted what your temps go down to when you do a new radiator. Also, let me know what radiator you decide to go with and if it was an "EASY DROP IN" affair. That's my next upgrade on the cooling list of items is a bigger radiator.
I wander if the NISMO thermostat (opens at 154 F) is even a good idea (if you don't wire fans to kick on earlier) with a bigger radiator and oil cooler in place. Also, I always wandered if the lower thermostat just "stays" open and water doesn't really get to spend any real time in the radiator to get a good "heat cycle".
Sounds like it should be rising above dead center according to your notes.
Keep us posted what your temps go down to when you do a new radiator. Also, let me know what radiator you decide to go with and if it was an "EASY DROP IN" affair. That's my next upgrade on the cooling list of items is a bigger radiator.
I wander if the NISMO thermostat (opens at 154 F) is even a good idea (if you don't wire fans to kick on earlier) with a bigger radiator and oil cooler in place. Also, I always wandered if the lower thermostat just "stays" open and water doesn't really get to spend any real time in the radiator to get a good "heat cycle".