30 whp on a non fi car for cams was not reasonable. 20 whp is the general gains you can expect from cams on an NA VQ. You car sounds wonderful and I can't wait to get some JWT cams in my motor.

 

wait til i get home to watch the vids

 

what is the name of this material? I probably won't need it anyway it was 39 out this morning!

 

some gold leaf radiant heat reflective stuff... I don’t know what it’s called... getting it from Baker Precision: http://www.bakerprecision.com/

They don’t show the gold sheets - but they list other thermal insulating stuff... Shawn uses the gold stuff of his S2K racecar and he's the one that suggested it.. I would coat everything in Lizard Skin like the intake, but can't find anyone local that has/does it anymore...

The only thing I don’t like is throwing off the shades of grey color scheme... but in this case it must be done.

Ambient temps wouldn’t effect my situation – even with cool weather the headers heat this **** up… for road racing it would be much of an issue – but sitting in the shad this morning (with non-shaded ambient temps about 80) the intake temps were 120+ idling a very short period.

 

cams headers & tune... its a lofty goal but I didn’t think it was too out of reach... It was the high end of what I thought was feasible - 20 was expected (30 was my "wish")

 

Nice Mike! Can't wait to hear the car in person

 

Are your headers coated?

 

Yep. But it doesn’t seem to be doing much… Doug at Crawford said they use Jet Hot Coating – I was hoping it would reduce temps more… losing the OEM heat shields really makes a difference.

I have some things to try and hopefully it will help… I’m mainly concerned about intake temps at the MAF sensor, so that’s what I’m going to target most – downstream from MAF sensor is slightly controlled with thermal coated intake tube, coolant control valve and Tony’s Aramid intake manifold gasket

 

A lot of the additional heat is coming from the much thinner wall tubing used on aftermarket headers. The DE/Revup manifolds have a far thicker gauge which retains heat (a really good thing for exhaust velocity) and keeps noise down. The heat shields help a little, but their primary purpose to keep the manifolds from setting something on fire in case something falls into the valleys.

IMO, you really should consider going back to the stock intake. It's your best bet for keeping excessive under hood heat out of the intake tract. Lots of people have proven the aftermarket intakes don't do squat for these cars. You can add all the shields you want, but the main issue is heat being sucked into the engine. I'm sure the MAF and piping gets hot, but remember that the air moving through the tube. It's not stagnet therefore it doesn't have a lot of time to get warmed up when traveling through 2 feet of piping, especially when rpms are above 3000. The key is to cram ambient air into the intake tract and you're not going to get ambient air if you've taken away the fresh air source and have opened up the intake (anywhere) to underhood heat. Why not at least try it for two days?

 

I may consider switching to OEM airbox – I don’t suspect it will make any notable difference one way or another at this stage of the cars build - however, you're statement that "Lots of people have proven the aftermarket intakes don't do squat for these cars" - is fine for some... but lots of things seem to work on my car that "don’t do squat for others”... I'm not interested in debating that... in fact, I don’t debate anything about what works on my car anymore. It does well and I simply report what its doing - if someone gets something from it great - I don't post my projects to encourage others to do it – it’s just reference material for other enthusiasts to have access to when they do their thing. Additionally I do sh!tloads of research (way beyond this forum) with the things I do, and I'm usually pretty content with the choices I've made.

In any event - The issue about heat that I have been addressing in this thread has nothing to do with the temperature of the air by the time it reaches the combustion chamber - so the theory of moving velocity negates hot temps really is moot in this case... the ECU is reading very hot temps at the MAF sensor (which can affect timing) and that is what I'm trying to control... whether or not that same air makes a difference after the MAF I don’t care (in this particular situation).

As for the material of the headers... it is said that Doug uses high quality tubing - so I'm not sure how much better after-market the headers could possibly get. Clearly they are doing their job by adding a good amount of trq (none of what is exhibited on the dyno or driving perception could have been achieved with cams and OEM headers)... so it’s a give and take... but I'd be an idiot not to address the heat issue. Several others have done the same thing that I plan to do (as I’m finding out in the Z thread) - just with a different material.

So far I haven’t made any fatal flaws with the progress of this car - so rest assured it will only get better

 

I just bought some kelford s1 cams for my car. Im really stoked about putting these on. im also gonna put valve springs, rev-up rod bolts (stronger than non-revup DE) and rev-up oil pump as well.

Do you recommend putting anything else while my car is naked?

Could you also pm the price technosquare charged you. thanks Mike.

This mod should feed the beast for some time.

I am gona tell my tuner to look at the ETC control, dont wana my low end to be sluggish

 

give TechnoSquare a call and talk with Howard - he can give you a price and discuss additional needs (if any) - 310-787-0847