need help please
#1
#3
Questions for clarification...
I am interested in the sound that is being made and when it occurs? This will provide me with some insight into the issue and thus allow me to assist in determining the cause. It is important to note that there have been some changes over the years relative to the flywheels used for G35/350Z. The most obvious change occurred in 07 when the trigger ring on the back of the flywheel was changes. This could certainly lead to issues of starting but should not produce any noise.
As a side note, if ACT uses a flywheel that has two dowel pin holes on the back (one for FWD and one for RWD application) and the flywheel were indexed incorrectly with the crank dowel inserted in the FWD receptacle then this would also impact the cars ability to start and run but it would not likely lead to any noise.
Because you are hearing a noise it is much more likely that you are seeing an issue associated with the interaction between the starter bindex and the flywheel ring-gear. If the Bindex or Ring-gear were damaged noise would ensue. Or, if the ring-gear had an inappropriate depth this too would cause noise. Another possible cause would be an incorrect ring-gear tooth count. The Nissan 350Z and Infiniti G35 used the same ring-gear tooth count (124 teeth) through their entire life cycle (the only change that occurred was relative to the trigger ring as noted above).
The Nissan Altima on the other hand used a 125 tooth ring gear but otherwise looked almost identical. If you were shipped an Altima flywheel it would bolt into place but it would not mesh with the G/Z bindex and noise would result. I know this is a lot of info to digest but I want to make sure you have all the info you could possibly need.
******Cliffs Notes******
*check the starter and flywheel ring-gear for damage
*check the depth from the crank mounting surface to the bottom and top edge of the ring-gear to insure that it matches your stock flywheel
*check the ring-gear tooth count (it should be 124 teeth)
*let me know what you find and I will be happy to provide more info
PS. When counting ring-gear teeth it is best to use a marker or wax pen to mark every 10th tooth. This will make it much easier to keep track of the number.
As a side note, if ACT uses a flywheel that has two dowel pin holes on the back (one for FWD and one for RWD application) and the flywheel were indexed incorrectly with the crank dowel inserted in the FWD receptacle then this would also impact the cars ability to start and run but it would not likely lead to any noise.
Because you are hearing a noise it is much more likely that you are seeing an issue associated with the interaction between the starter bindex and the flywheel ring-gear. If the Bindex or Ring-gear were damaged noise would ensue. Or, if the ring-gear had an inappropriate depth this too would cause noise. Another possible cause would be an incorrect ring-gear tooth count. The Nissan 350Z and Infiniti G35 used the same ring-gear tooth count (124 teeth) through their entire life cycle (the only change that occurred was relative to the trigger ring as noted above).
The Nissan Altima on the other hand used a 125 tooth ring gear but otherwise looked almost identical. If you were shipped an Altima flywheel it would bolt into place but it would not mesh with the G/Z bindex and noise would result. I know this is a lot of info to digest but I want to make sure you have all the info you could possibly need.
******Cliffs Notes******
*check the starter and flywheel ring-gear for damage
*check the depth from the crank mounting surface to the bottom and top edge of the ring-gear to insure that it matches your stock flywheel
*check the ring-gear tooth count (it should be 124 teeth)
*let me know what you find and I will be happy to provide more info
PS. When counting ring-gear teeth it is best to use a marker or wax pen to mark every 10th tooth. This will make it much easier to keep track of the number.
#5
no its not throwing any cells...
but the noise it makes is like a grinding sound and it only does it when the clutch is pushed in and when i realease it it makes the typical cement mixer sound due to flywheel.. whenever i try to start the car it just shuts right off, it will only stay on if i give it gas
but the noise it makes is like a grinding sound and it only does it when the clutch is pushed in and when i realease it it makes the typical cement mixer sound due to flywheel.. whenever i try to start the car it just shuts right off, it will only stay on if i give it gas
#7
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#10
That code is specific to the Neutral Position Switch/Sensor (this sensor can be found on the passenger side of the transmission while the switch is located at the bottom of the clutch pedal travel). I am curious as to whether or not the sensor is plugged in or not. If it were not fully clipped into it recepticle that would cause the car not to start. The greater likelyhood is that the pedal is not being allowed to fully depress. Here is my best guess as to the cause:
You are hearing a sound when the pedal is depressed correct? That would indicate that there is something hitting somewhere in the assembly. The fact that you are getting a code could indicate that the pedal is not being allowed to fully depress which would lead me to look at the release mechanism or the clutch itself. If there were an issue with the fork, or the bearing which clips to it (say for instance the bearing were put on the collar backwards or not clipped into the fork correctly) this could cause a sound and it could also hinder pedal travel. I am not sure what plate they use but if it had a different dimension than the stock cover it could lead to interference with the Fork. Or, if the hub was made to tall the diaphragm fingers could be hitting it, or the bearing could be contacting it. It could be any of these things. You really need to pull the transmission again to tell for sure what the cause is. I wish I could tell you more...but at this point I am only able to provide educated guesses as to the cause.
You are hearing a sound when the pedal is depressed correct? That would indicate that there is something hitting somewhere in the assembly. The fact that you are getting a code could indicate that the pedal is not being allowed to fully depress which would lead me to look at the release mechanism or the clutch itself. If there were an issue with the fork, or the bearing which clips to it (say for instance the bearing were put on the collar backwards or not clipped into the fork correctly) this could cause a sound and it could also hinder pedal travel. I am not sure what plate they use but if it had a different dimension than the stock cover it could lead to interference with the Fork. Or, if the hub was made to tall the diaphragm fingers could be hitting it, or the bearing could be contacting it. It could be any of these things. You really need to pull the transmission again to tell for sure what the cause is. I wish I could tell you more...but at this point I am only able to provide educated guesses as to the cause.
#11
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#13
well i checked all the plugs and there fine...so i went a head and reset the check engine light it was fine for a little will but then it came back on today, and i checked the spark plugs and i found out it had some champion platinum plugs.... i don't know what to do its still turning off should i change the plugs could this be why its turning off??????
#14
It didn't do this before though...and it had those plugs, right? If so, I wouldn't imagine that that was the cause. I am more apt to believe that you are having an issue with the CPS and a second issue that is causing the noise you are hearing. It is just difficult to diagnose over the computer...as I am sure you know.
When you try to start the car the motor turns over correct? It simply won't start. Hey, what is the build date on your car? It just hit me that there was a change in parts that occured in 07/03 that could be the cause. Most clutch manufactures build parts that are for fitment on cars produced after 07/03. If your car was produced before this date then you would have a different Fork, pilot bearing, bearing retainer, and spring assembly. Check your build date and let me know what you find. Assuming that it predated 07/03 I can provide the list of OE parts to rectify this issue. Let me know. Thanks!
When you try to start the car the motor turns over correct? It simply won't start. Hey, what is the build date on your car? It just hit me that there was a change in parts that occured in 07/03 that could be the cause. Most clutch manufactures build parts that are for fitment on cars produced after 07/03. If your car was produced before this date then you would have a different Fork, pilot bearing, bearing retainer, and spring assembly. Check your build date and let me know what you find. Assuming that it predated 07/03 I can provide the list of OE parts to rectify this issue. Let me know. Thanks!