I just orderd my z-tube and want to get either the popcharger or the K&N filter. Whats the difference between them and are the gains between them insiffinicant?

 

Gains are equivalent. For warmer temps (according to "Q45tech") I'd stick with the stillen high flow air box with the K&N.

Just so you know I have the JWT P/C, so I'm giving subjective advice. The hp gains are equivalent (within +/- 1hp at cooler temps) so the decision is really up to you.

301-bhp!!! ...and growing!

 

I bought a Pop charger from a guy who used it for 2 hours. He didn't like it because it produced too much noise for him. I have not installed it, but would sell it for $65 shipped.

The filter and everything look brand new (they should!), and the good thing is that the rubber trim is already installed around the heat shield.

Let me know if you have an interest.

'04 6MT coupe

 

You bought it, but didn't install it and now you're selling it too. What gives??

I think the popcharger is a great mod. I like the turbo-like whistling sound when it sucks in the air hard.

 

jjellyneck, I am familiar with CAI used to have one on my Acura CLs. Is the pop charger same as the CAI? Does it make the noise constantly? My previous cai only got loud when the VETEC kicked in at about 5K. If the noise is not constant, I may get it from you.

2004 G35X

 

mamboking,
I bought it in the winter (when it's -15 degrees here in Minnesota), so I waited for warmer weather to install. Then I pretty much forgot about it. I'm kind of indifferent--I'd like a little more performance that it should deliver, but don't really want the extra noise. I might install it when I'm due for a new filter anyway--probably late this summer. But if I sell it, that's just fine with me.

'04 6MT coupe

 

I have tried both.....and I prefer the K&N panel filter with the modified stock airbox.
The stock intake is really good...but remember...their goal was to keep it quiet. It has incorporated the ram-air approach.
If you use the K&N panel filter and open the air intake up a bit....it works great and sounds great.

"I like you.....You remind me of myself when I was young and foolish"

281214-MVC-006S.JPG

 

Confusing terms: "it sucks in the air hard."

The engine doesn't suck in any air [the rings don't seal well enough to be a vacuum pump], it is just an air/heat pump and the force of the atmosphere forces [pushes] the air in [past filter] to fill the void left on the exhaust stroke.

14.7 psi [less restrictions] pushing the air into plenum.

Choice of words is very important to educated and knowledgeable enthusiasts.

 

Where did you read "it sucks in air hard"??????
Mr techie...

"I like you.....You remind me of myself when I was young and foolish"

 

If you cut up a K&N and stretch the pleats out you will see that the K&N panel filter has much, much, much less square foot area than the simple oem filter.........pleat count and pleat depth is much more important than material [cotton vs paper] restriction.

Last time I measured Nissan [Q45] the K&N drop in did flow/restrict air pressure by 0.7" WC LESS [better] than oem paper [both new]........0.7/27.7=0.025 psi that . Each psi is roughly 6.8% so 4/100 psi ~~0.5 HP at the best 0.476 HP at the max flow redline rpm point.

Using no air filter at all might get 1 HP.......that's how little the filters affect the flow [reduce the atmospheric pressure].

The other purpose is to straighten the air flow in preparation for flowing into a round pipe the MAF.........distance from MAF to filter is critical as the MAF are calibrated with oem designs.
Changing things can affect the MAF accuracy which can sometimes help, mostly hurt engine reaction to changing flows.......fuel to air ratio accuracy during transistions.

Never measured a G35 but if some ATL owner wants to let me cut 3-4 tiny holes [ball point pen ink carrier sized] [we will plug them back up afterwards] it would take an hour to get some really accurate numbers. Just accelerate to redline and watch the restriction pressure increase and log the difference with different filters combos oem, cone, cai, etc. Obviously the temperature must be logged as the real density changes can affect the numbers.

A non cai cone might flow hot underhood air better 1-1.5-2% but the 30-50F temp change will drop the density by 3-5% creating a net loss of density in the plenum.

I love to drag cone filters/cai which have never been tested for air[heat leaks] in Summer heat from a soaking hot situation by the time the speed air flow has cooled their system the race is long over.

See at lot of problems in traffic and leaving expressway rest areas where the hot soak creates 190-220F under hood on a 90F day........power is down 12% from this alone and the coolant time has spiked from no circulation reducing ignition advance by 5 degrees [summer overheat protective mode keyed to coolant temp]........knocks another 10-15%......where did my power go.
Have manometers/temp probes will travel.

 

On a side note, and as a former 98 A-V6 owner, how does "V-TEC kick in"? If V-TEC stands for Variable Timing & Electronic Control, isn't the timing ALWAYS electronically controlled? How would it "kick in"?

301-bhp!!! ...and growing!

 

I think VTEC means variable timing exhaust control if I'm not mistaken. The variable timing in a honda is not continuously variable. It does 'kick in' at a certain rpm. If you look at an S2000 dyno, you'll see a jump just under 7K ? rpm where a another set of cam lobes kick in and changes the lift and duration on the exhaust side only. I'm not a VTEC expert and I may have misused some terms but this is what happens.

 

My car has the stock air filter and air box, and 8500 miles on it with the original air filter. It shows a funky pattern of dirt. What I see is that a huge % of the intake air comes from the center "scoop" just above the grill and then it flows across the airfilter. There is a noticeable strip of dirt across the filter starting at the opening that comes from that center scoop. Then I can see where the dirt piles up on the drivers side edge of the filter and housing.

There is a tiny distributed amount of dirt across the top of the filter, which seems that it's coming from the Power Duct. But it seems that the Power Duct should be blasting more air in from directly ahead. Doesn't seem to be the case!

My casual observation is that there need to me more air inlet holes in the grill area (above the grill) in front of the Power Duct to make a decent difference. For what it's worth!

'04 6MT coupe

 

neffster is correct, VTEC means Variable Valve Timing & Lift Electronic Control, (similar to the VVTL-i in the Toyota Celica, Variable Valve Timing and Lift with intelligence) and it does "kick in"... in high school my friend had an Acura Integra GSR with VTEC DOHC, and the car was a monster in 3rd gear... it kicks in at high rpms's...
http://www.leecao.com/honda/vtec/whatsvtec.html

04/BO/G/aero/splash/prem/perf/cc/22%tint

 

Q45tech, like always you're right. Those were poor choice of words saying that the engine sucks in the air. I actually believed that the seal of the pistons was good enough to make it an air pump. I guess that's one more trip for me to howstuffworks.com. One of the best websites ever IMHO. Just the other day I learned how a catalytic converter really works. For the record, the G35 coupe is my first car that has excited enough to learn all about how the internals of the engine really work. At this point in time I can only call myself a Entuthiast-in-training or wannabe.