ok so i got my car dynoed yesterday. installed mods are
Crawford intake plenum, Stillen intake, and HKS hi-power exhaust.
this is the dyno chart it made. anyone have any idea of what the hiccups were? it was ran in 3rd on AT.

 

Should have been run in 4th and thats a lot of smoothing that they used.

 

Wow...

Why did they use 3rd?

 

i have no idea why they ran 3rd, but i asked what gear and thats what they said. they put it in manumatic, went through 1st & 2nd, then a bit of gas in 3rd and floored it around like 2700 rpm. after seeing the dyno, if i pay attention to it i feel it loose power where it shows. they claimed that those were where it wanted to shift but it held it in gear. i mainly worried about the jump at ~3650, the little loopy things at like 44-45 on the 1st run, and the rather large drop at ~4k on the 2nd run. he said he had his foot to the floor the entire time and didnt let off. i dont know why he let off so soon, i told him to go to like 6500, but either way. any ideas on what could cause that?

 

ps- im at about 5100 feet, running on 91 octane (highest available). air temp ~ 70 degrees

 

anyone have any ideas? im kinda worried something isint right...

 

Each 1,000 feet reduces power by 3% due to air density decline. So expect 15% reduction compared to equivalent at sealevel.

 

AT dyno in 3rd.

 

Either thats wheel slip or you need a tune bad...or a new tranny. Hard to tell without seeing A/F.

 

With the 5AT, 3rd is the ideal gear. It's easier to keep the tranny from downshifting at WOT plus it doesn't labor the motor as long vs using a gear like 4th. Running a car in too tall a gear on a dyno pass can build excess heat. It's neither good for the car and can heat the motor up to the point that power is lost. Dynoing in 3rd will result in slightly lower numbers, but as long as you always us 3rd, there's no point in worrying about it unless you're strictly concerned about bragging rights. Just keep in mind that a dyno is a tuning tool. The overall numbers aren't really important.

Your car is an X therefore there's more drivetrain loss. Your number will be slightly lower than a RWD G.

You're at a high elevation. Even though the Dynojet program will compensate and correct for atmosphereric conditions, when the conditions are so bad (ie New Mexico where you're at 4000'+), the correction factors get skewed. Chances are if you dynoed at a lower elevation, you'd see additional power.

Due to the lack of o2 at 4000'+ and your intake mods, it's quite possible that the ECU is flaking out. It knows that you're driving in an area with low o2, yet it's seeing more air than it's expecting therefore it could be constantly compensating and adjusting.

I suggest getting some sort tuning and consider reinstalling the stock intake until then.

 

dynoing in 3rd results in higher number than dynoing in 4th. Ive done it and have seen other ATs result the same.

 

Not on Dynojets.

 

on Stillens and the Dyno Shop in SD.

 

Must be a California thing because elsewhere in the world, you'll usually see fractionally (and I'm talking less than 5whp) higher numbers when dynoing in a taller gear. I've seen this personnally on dynos (my cars and others) throughout Kansas City, the Midwest, and reported on this site, my350z.com, Maxima.org, ls1.com, corral.net, etc.

 

Each gear mesh adds 0.85% >1% frictional loss to drive train loss. So direct gear what ever gear that is, is optimum.
Common homework problems in college [mechanical engineering or any engineering].
http://www.geartechnology.com/pa/mem...5/section4.pdf