Speedo, Tach, VDC/Slip lights, etc. malfuctioning
#16
Once you solve your problem please post your solution for future forum users.
#17
yeah did anyone find out a solution?? mines doing the saem thing.. drove home 350kms in heavy rain and it will not start. and when it would start i took it any parked it in the garage to dry..
-headlights randomly turn on and off
-car would crank but not start
-bose head unit sound like it wanted to eject a cd
-slip and vcd light’s on.
-with the key turn on "ON" the fans would kick in
all that is happening...there was about an inch of water under the battery
-headlights randomly turn on and off
-car would crank but not start
-bose head unit sound like it wanted to eject a cd
-slip and vcd light’s on.
-with the key turn on "ON" the fans would kick in
all that is happening...there was about an inch of water under the battery
#18
#19
well i took the ipdm completely out today.. let it dry as there was minimal water in it, cleaned off all relays and plugs sprayed it with electrical cleaner and put it back together.. i was advised by hfx infiniti to spray the whole ipdm with the Red Rustcheck(its safe and they claim they do it to all theirs)..
the car runs fine.. all the lights and codes r clear and it started first try.
its still raining hard and all is good so far. the guy at infiniti told me that they always get them in with that problem and just dry them out and rustcheck them and dont have more problems with them
hope any of that helped
the car runs fine.. all the lights and codes r clear and it started first try.
its still raining hard and all is good so far. the guy at infiniti told me that they always get them in with that problem and just dry them out and rustcheck them and dont have more problems with them
hope any of that helped
#20
#21
bump.. looking for some help..
purchased new ipdm. cleaned all the ipdm connections.. still no start..
When i turn the key on
-car will crank but not start
-bose head unit sound like it wanted to eject a cd
-slip and vcd light’s on.
-with the key turn on "ON" the fans would kick in
It almost sounds like its not getting fuel.. My question is would this have to go to the dealership to be hooked up to consult ( my codereader displays a datalink error when hooked up) no ses or engine codes?
any help would be great. can post here or email me at @ c88pond@hotmail.com cpond@town.stellarton.ns.ca
These are the same syptoms that occured earlier when the ipdm got wet. This was fixed by drying it out. Keep in mind i have a new ipdm and its doing the same thing.
tks pond
purchased new ipdm. cleaned all the ipdm connections.. still no start..
When i turn the key on
-car will crank but not start
-bose head unit sound like it wanted to eject a cd
-slip and vcd light’s on.
-with the key turn on "ON" the fans would kick in
It almost sounds like its not getting fuel.. My question is would this have to go to the dealership to be hooked up to consult ( my codereader displays a datalink error when hooked up) no ses or engine codes?
any help would be great. can post here or email me at @ c88pond@hotmail.com cpond@town.stellarton.ns.ca
These are the same syptoms that occured earlier when the ipdm got wet. This was fixed by drying it out. Keep in mind i have a new ipdm and its doing the same thing.
tks pond
#23
So I disappeared for a few years and realized I never came back and explained what fixed my issue.
The long and short of it, there was some crap blocking the water drain underneath the battery That allowed water to puddle up a little bit (about 1") and the IPDM is right there. Either the water was splashing up or evaporating and getting caught in the IPDM cover, eventually causing it to short.
I took the batter tray out, cleaned out the debris in the water drain, and since then I haven't had any issues.
So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues to what I originally posted, I would check under the battery tray for any water build up after a recent rain as my 1st step.
Hope that helps someone.
The long and short of it, there was some crap blocking the water drain underneath the battery That allowed water to puddle up a little bit (about 1") and the IPDM is right there. Either the water was splashing up or evaporating and getting caught in the IPDM cover, eventually causing it to short.
I took the batter tray out, cleaned out the debris in the water drain, and since then I haven't had any issues.
So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues to what I originally posted, I would check under the battery tray for any water build up after a recent rain as my 1st step.
Hope that helps someone.
#24
Electrical issues too
So I disappeared for a few years and realized I never came back and explained what fixed my issue.
The long and short of it, there was some crap blocking the water drain underneath the battery That allowed water to puddle up a little bit (about 1") and the IPDM is right there. Either the water was splashing up or evaporating and getting caught in the IPDM cover, eventually causing it to short.
I took the batter tray out, cleaned out the debris in the water drain, and since then I haven't had any issues.
So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues to what I originally posted, I would check under the battery tray for any water build up after a recent rain as my 1st step.
Hope that helps someone.
The long and short of it, there was some crap blocking the water drain underneath the battery That allowed water to puddle up a little bit (about 1") and the IPDM is right there. Either the water was splashing up or evaporating and getting caught in the IPDM cover, eventually causing it to short.
I took the batter tray out, cleaned out the debris in the water drain, and since then I haven't had any issues.
So, if anyone is experiencing similar issues to what I originally posted, I would check under the battery tray for any water build up after a recent rain as my 1st step.
Hope that helps someone.
#25
Same problem
Thanks buddy, as a matter of fact that’s word by word what had happen to me. It's been raining pretty badly and I remember one puddle in particular that might have done the trick. None the less I took out the battery to get better access and there was about an inch of water. I remove the plug in the bottom under the battery tray (which I drilled two holes in) cleaned all the dirt out and blow-dried the IPDM. Next morning she fired right up.
For future reference my symptoms where as follow-
-headlights randomly turn on and off
-car would crank but not start
-bose head unit sound like it wanted to eject a cd
-slip and vcd light’s on.
-with the key turn on "ON" the fans would kick in
-when I would lock the car the panic would go off
Watch out for puddles or just rain in general. Everyone should look in their battery area every once in a while to see if water is collecting.
Again, thanks Shakuya88
For future reference my symptoms where as follow-
-headlights randomly turn on and off
-car would crank but not start
-bose head unit sound like it wanted to eject a cd
-slip and vcd light’s on.
-with the key turn on "ON" the fans would kick in
-when I would lock the car the panic would go off
Watch out for puddles or just rain in general. Everyone should look in their battery area every once in a while to see if water is collecting.
Again, thanks Shakuya88
im having this same exact issue. No tach, no speedo, no temp. Fans turn on When key is in the on position, flickering headlights. CEL doesn’t show on dash but has p1212 and u1001 dtc’s. Slip, abs, and vdc lights on. Car will only turn on with my tuned ecu from my drift setup g35. This cars ecu will not start the car now and acts as if it’s stuck in security mode.
once I start the car with my ecu the car runs great but no gauges are working except fuel.
I already have changed the cam and crank sensors, replaced the ecu with my tuned one, replaced engine wire harness, I replaced the ipdm e/r, I replaced the fuse box drivers side kick panel, I replaced the entire gauge assembly, I changed the key and ignition and NATS sensor. Still same issues.
With my tuned ecu the car runs and drives great I just have no way to see speed, temp or rpms. And fans stay on and lights flicker.
please someone help!! This problem has cost me so much already. Thanks in advance to anyone with the answers. Also can someone explain the way the cluster gets its information? I don’t know what to do anymore.
#26
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P1212 means the ECM cannot communicate with the TCS computer, U1001 also means that one of the computers is unplugged. This is likely also why your slip/abs/vdc lights are on since that's all part of the traction control system.
I think you should troubleshoot your CANBUS system since you also don't have intrumentation since those are also getting information from the local network.
Are you sure you don't just have a blown fuse in the fusible link?
With the existing ECM is your NATS security indicator light solid red while trying to crank the engine? If the ECM doesn't recognize the key and you have too many failed starts it will trigger the vehicle immobilizer which locks out the ECM and it won't even try to start the car anymore, it will also throw P1610 code.
However since your fans turn on high with the ignition in the ON position that is also usually a CANBUS error where the ECM isn't communicating with the IPDM.
Flickering headlights means something electrical is disconnected and making intermittent contact, check your battery to make sure the lugs are CLEAN AND TIGHT.
Also look for any aftermarket electronics under the dash like an aftermarket security system, or damaged wiring where one may have been installed. People often use crimp butt connectors to reattach wires instead of properly solder/shrink tube to fix wiring and it almost never lasts. Same thing with c-taps.
I think you should troubleshoot your CANBUS system since you also don't have intrumentation since those are also getting information from the local network.
Are you sure you don't just have a blown fuse in the fusible link?
With the existing ECM is your NATS security indicator light solid red while trying to crank the engine? If the ECM doesn't recognize the key and you have too many failed starts it will trigger the vehicle immobilizer which locks out the ECM and it won't even try to start the car anymore, it will also throw P1610 code.
However since your fans turn on high with the ignition in the ON position that is also usually a CANBUS error where the ECM isn't communicating with the IPDM.
Flickering headlights means something electrical is disconnected and making intermittent contact, check your battery to make sure the lugs are CLEAN AND TIGHT.
Also look for any aftermarket electronics under the dash like an aftermarket security system, or damaged wiring where one may have been installed. People often use crimp butt connectors to reattach wires instead of properly solder/shrink tube to fix wiring and it almost never lasts. Same thing with c-taps.
#27
Thanks for the reply
P1212 means the ECM cannot communicate with the TCS computer, U1001 also means that one of the computers is unplugged. This is likely also why your slip/abs/vdc lights are on since that's all part of the traction control system.
I think you should troubleshoot your CANBUS system since you also don't have intrumentation since those are also getting information from the local network.
Are you sure you don't just have a blown fuse in the fusible link?
With the existing ECM is your NATS security indicator light solid red while trying to crank the engine? If the ECM doesn't recognize the key and you have too many failed starts it will trigger the vehicle immobilizer which locks out the ECM and it won't even try to start the car anymore, it will also throw P1610 code.
However since your fans turn on high with the ignition in the ON position that is also usually a CANBUS error where the ECM isn't communicating with the IPDM.
Flickering headlights means something electrical is disconnected and making intermittent contact, check your battery to make sure the lugs are CLEAN AND TIGHT.
Also look for any aftermarket electronics under the dash like an aftermarket security system, or damaged wiring where one may have been installed. People often use crimp butt connectors to reattach wires instead of properly solder/shrink tube to fix wiring and it almost never lasts. Same thing with c-taps.
I think you should troubleshoot your CANBUS system since you also don't have intrumentation since those are also getting information from the local network.
Are you sure you don't just have a blown fuse in the fusible link?
With the existing ECM is your NATS security indicator light solid red while trying to crank the engine? If the ECM doesn't recognize the key and you have too many failed starts it will trigger the vehicle immobilizer which locks out the ECM and it won't even try to start the car anymore, it will also throw P1610 code.
However since your fans turn on high with the ignition in the ON position that is also usually a CANBUS error where the ECM isn't communicating with the IPDM.
Flickering headlights means something electrical is disconnected and making intermittent contact, check your battery to make sure the lugs are CLEAN AND TIGHT.
Also look for any aftermarket electronics under the dash like an aftermarket security system, or damaged wiring where one may have been installed. People often use crimp butt connectors to reattach wires instead of properly solder/shrink tube to fix wiring and it almost never lasts. Same thing with c-taps.
#28
I’m almost positive it’s the canbus system but unsure how to check it in order to diagnose the problem. I bought a Nissan consult 3 plus to help me find the issue but I’m not sure how to check the canbus system with it. As it came with no real instructions on how to use. This car is killing me already and I’d really hate to have to go to the stealership, especially here in Miami. Can you point me in the direction of the canbus wiring diagram for a 2006 g35 manual. Thanks 🙏🏽 For all your help already, wish there was an easier way to contact you so I could just pick your brain alittle. Lmk tho and again I appreciate your help.
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