gawd im glad i i got a stick

2004 Black on Black g coupe 6spd.... aluminum pedals, clear corners, z tube, and pop charger. soon to have 19" volk gt-c's and PIAA xtreme whites in the clearance and corners
Houston Texas

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

gawd im glad i i got a stick

<hr></blockquote>

What does this have to do with this thread?

Small "shot" at the AT5 owners eh'

Again, as I said before, it did not have any problems while not on a dyno. Shifts actually pretty well. I have had cars with No2 that were a lot harder. ie: My 2001 M3 shifted a bit harder than my G.

Can not say anything before 01 b/c the 10 years before that I had all 5 & 6 speeds. Got tired of rowing the boat in daily traffic and enjoy the AT5 on this car. Actually 1 reason I bought it.

B. Silver| Loaded 20" Iforged Rims - Flux| Pop-Charger | Z-Tube | GroundingGear Equipped | Borla TD | "Custom" Stereo - JL/Focal/Clarion \ Zex 100 Shot / Purge Light - Crawford Cats

 

My point was, when you exceed the maximum torque limits on an AT you can expect reduced life and failures!
Since the AT was designed to match Q/M a 50-60 HP shot would not effect the AT nearly as much.

Not important now but maybe when you are faced with a $4,500 replacement cost at 75,000 miles instead of 150,000 miles.

Obviously neither the engine or tranny or diff or driveshaft is covered with Nitrous.

 

cloud,
Sorry I'm a newb with nitrous. So do you do option 3? You floor it and it's spraying the whole time, even when you're shifting? I thought this was a no no. I can't remember why.

Regarding option 2, You've got one hand on the MM, one hand on the wheel, which hand do you use to toggle off the switch while its shifting, then toggling it back on after it shifts? This seems like gymnastics.

raz,
Please no hijacking here. I need to know this stuff and have considered a 50 HP shot.

cloud,
Next I'll want to know about wet/dry if you got the knowledge.

One more thing. You're running one step colder plugs, right? This benefits you during the times you're spraying, right? But what about the 99.9% of the time you're NOT spraying, aren't you then one step too cold?

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5/Crawford Cats

 

wtf im not hijacking... just saying that im glad i dont have to depend on a machine to do what i want... i hear a lot about laggy shifts on the automatics like that.... just stating something. I wasnt trying to start a war over it. I dont think that my car is godly because its a manual or something and idont look down on auto drivers.... if i had gotten a sedan id be driving auto.. or a bmw 3 series... i looked at both in auto's

2004 Black on Black g coupe 6spd.... aluminum pedals, clear corners, z tube, and pop charger. soon to have 19" volk gt-c's and PIAA xtreme whites in the clearance and corners
Houston Texas

 

Q45,
So the torque convertor doubles the actual? Is that what's going on? Thus if I do something under the hood that makes 50 HP when I'm shifting between two gears, the tranny feels it as 100 HP?

Thus, if that's true and you say the tranny was designed to handle 333 at the limit, is that 333 AFTER or BEFORE the Torque is multiplied?

So, if I sprayed a 50 shot, and it was delivering 100 during shifts, I'd be exceeding the design limits by around 50 HP.

This seems no more dangerous than those that have blown their engines to produce 380 at the crank. What's the diff?

I've always had trouble comprehending the damn auto tranny and torque convertor. I've read some explanations by gurgen I think and still can quite get it. I'd appreciate any info you could spare. Please no Calculus though.

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5/Crawford Cats

 

"I'm not hijacking", now everybody down on the floor! You, give me all of the money in the register! If anybody moves I'll fill you all full of lead! Capish?

5AT's RULE!!! [img]/w3timages/icons/wink.gif[/img]

<font color=blue>The above statements are only my take on the issue. If you disagree with anything I typed then you are 100% right!</font color=blue>

 

put a tranny cooler on the AT. Put a shift kit in for higher line pressure. The fluid pressure determines the velocity at which the AT fluid goes thru the cooler. The fluid pressure also determines how fast your shifts are.

This transfers some stress from the tranny to the rear end as the "mid shift" torque is not held as long wiht nowhere to go. Noone has complained about a rear end failure yet.

Those two mods run around 700.00 and will definitely extend the life of an automatic tranny.

hell even for you 5at'ers with NA mods, those are good mods for you. I cannot stress enough what a tranny cooler will do to help you. that is why every car from the factory with a tow package as an option includes an oversized tranny cooler and sometimes an auxiliary oil cooler.

keep your fluids cool and it likes you better

Better Life thru Chemistry
Black on Black 03.5 Sedan 6MT - Goodyear F1 GS-D3's 225/55/17, Custom Intake Tube, '03 "Z" Suspension, Magnaflow resonator, 6 Wire 4 Guage Grounding Kit

 

The tranny is speced at the shaft input, the flywheel!
Because NOX is a volume based system [twice as much NOX per cylinder gulp at half the rpm] the torque GAIN is twice as high 3,000 rpm as at 6,000 rpm. The exact reverse of a radial supercharger/ axial or turbo.

Why they make NOX variable speed pulse controllers to equalize the amounts injested with rpms!

The torque convertor only multiples torque in the instant the acceleration starts BUT the TC efficiency is lowest when the rpm spread is highest so the two may cancel each other out.
The greater the T multiplication ratio the worse the overall efficiency is!

http://www.luk.de/english/Bibliothek...kolloquium.pdf

Start with page 123 for TC -------great bed time reading.

http://www.luk.de/english/Bibliothek/Download/k7/

 

Just a little correction, nitrous is N2O. NOx is NO and NO2.

Nitrous is laughing gas. Fun times for everyone. Whipped cream party!

NOx is a pollutant and precurser to ozone (smog) formation and 'maybe' global warming.

2004 G35C 6MT Black. Killer.

 

Great link. On the way home after I posted it occured to me that the multiplication occurs lower. Thus if a nitrous system were to be set at only WOT, multiplication wouldn't be happening while it was spraying. Thus a 50 shot would only be producing 350 in my case...17 more HP than the specified limit. Don't know whether I can live with that or not.

Thanks for the link, I'll tackle that one soon. Good cigar reading.

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5/Crawford Cats

 

Good tips if I want my tranny modified. Unfortunately I've chosen not to tamper with a few things, and the tranny is one of them. I may consider the heavier duty cooler. Got any good links for G35 tranny coolers that are a proven fit?

2004.5 Coupe/5AT/Ivory/Everything but front spoiler/Nismo CAI/Crawford V5/Crawford Cats

 

You are correct about N2O vs Nox, I'm a lazy typer.

You are missing the point about how NITROUS is rated. For ease of marketing they use some ambiguous rating like HP for the jet size based on the NITROUS flow at a standard pressure. You have to assumr they are speaking of HP at round 6,000 rpm, then convert that to torque then correct for the rpm at which NITROUS is activated to find the peak torque addition.......the ratio will always be the highest just after activation.........see the graphs below on how to FINELY FINE TUNE a NITROUS system.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-11.htm
http://www.ws6.com/mod-13.htm

When you WOT from a stop it takes 2.5-3 seconds plus to get the engine up to torque peak rpm [4500 rpm].

Don't try to tune Nitrous finely on a dynojet as the acceleration will be faster than on the REAL road throwing your calculations out of whack. What happened to the guy in the above web site..........he spend multi dozens of dyno jet runs gettting close when a few runs on a Mustang Dyno would have gotten him their faster and safer.

 

'Fish-
It's a shame that you aren't interested in modifying your tranny---It would be the first thing I would do if big HP gains were on the way.
A great deal of the wear comes from the slippage during shifts, which could be mitigated by upping the line pressure.
A SHIFT KIT WILL MAKE YOUR TRANNY LAST LONGER, all things remaining equal.

The reason you don't want to spray during a shift is due to the slippage during our 'luxury' shifts. The result under more extreme loads is called FLARE. This exacerbates the slip, causing heat and damage.
Heat and slip are the enemies of the transmission. Reduce both and you are ahead of the game.
As far as being "17 hp over the limit," this has to be within design specs to have a 50-state vehicle. As some people who are very fond of throwing numbers around have mentioned, HP increases by about 1 percent for every 10-11 degrees F. HP is a function of torque, (hp=tq x rpm/5252), so torque increases as well.
If a Texas car (Q45) is making 333 ft/lb @ 95 degrees, and moves to Minnesota where it is 20 degrees, there is about a 7 percent increase in power. This is above the stated 'limit' for the trans.
Are all Minnesota cars going to fail tomorrow? Not likely. The lesson here is that even 'hard' numbers need interpretation, and DON'T TAKE EVERYTHING POSTED HERE AS GOSPEL!
ps- a window switch would keep the spray from being activated during shifting.

'04 G35X Graphite/graphite, NAV, wood, premium

 

If you study the electronic throttle plate controller and tcu/ecu controlled ignition advance, you will see that the throttle partially closes and the ignition advance drops from 26-28 down to ZERO, the fuel is cut back, just before and during the shift and slowly [in a second climbs back to 22 degrees].
The whole shift process takes less than a second.

True spraying continues [unless you use a pulse controller] so you get a power spike once the shift is complete from the build up of unused NITROUS in front of TB......but hopefully this occurs as the ignition advance is rising from Zero.


This power back off just before and during the shifts is HOW the tranny [being a quite light weight design] survives the 333 lb/ft [that could occur at 4,000 rpm] because shifts never occur at that power level........300HP @ 6400 rpm = 5252/6400= 0.82 x 300 x 0.9= 234 lb/ft less what ever the lesser ignition advance creates ~~ <200 lb/ft.

Data log the ingition advance just before thru the shift to visualize whats happening.