What kind of clutch to buy
What kind of clutch to buy
Just had my clutch replaced from the dealer a couple months ago no charge, don't really like it though, getting a lot of chatter still and feels like I have no pickup at red lights, thought it was the way I drive it but I don't think so. does anyone know what the brand is that they put in for stock clutches, also want a clutch that I have to put a little more effort into but not to hard. looking for something that's stronger then stock, thanks
I've got the NISMO clutch along with my JWT flywheel. Works pretty good. The noise on this set up is there though when you are at idle with your foot off the clutch pedal.
Libra, do you know if the dealer replaced your stock flywheel? If not, and due to the fact that it isn't easy to resurface the stock dual-mass flywheel, it is quite possible that the increased duration of chatter is relative to use of the new clutch kit on a flywheel that isn't flat. The stock clutch for this application in-and-of-itself should be as chatter-free as possible (this is relative to the low clamp-load associated with the stock plate and the low friction coeffecient of the disc material.
Of course, it is also possible that your stock SAC-mechanism (Self-Asjusting Cover) has misadjusted and that this is in fact causing your issue. Misadjustment can actually occur as a result of the inconsistent face commonly found on a used flywheel. The SAC-mechanism can be reset, though this requires removing the clutch and using a press to actuate the diaphragm fingers and a flat-head screwdriver to return the tabs, that retain the ratcheting-springs used for adjustment, to their starting/default position. I can talk you through this if you need me to when the time comes. Just let me know. Thanks,
Of course, it is also possible that your stock SAC-mechanism (Self-Asjusting Cover) has misadjusted and that this is in fact causing your issue. Misadjustment can actually occur as a result of the inconsistent face commonly found on a used flywheel. The SAC-mechanism can be reset, though this requires removing the clutch and using a press to actuate the diaphragm fingers and a flat-head screwdriver to return the tabs, that retain the ratcheting-springs used for adjustment, to their starting/default position. I can talk you through this if you need me to when the time comes. Just let me know. Thanks,
Well unfortunately I told them I wanted to see the old parts cause I was a little skeptical that it only took 3 hrs to replace the clutch/ throwout bearing/ pressure plate and flywheel. so do you think it could be a pedal adjustment or something.
Yes, it is possible that this is relative to a pedal adjustment issue. But, without checking that out and assessing the issue further it is impossible to know for sure. Let me know if you have any more questions and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
i did my own clutch with jack stands and hand tools in 4 hours . a shop with a lift and air tools could easily do it in 3 hrs our less.
with my Spec twin disc, i had to really play with the pedal adjustment. my 1st gear is really notchy now, but at least it shifts ok.
with my Spec twin disc, i had to really play with the pedal adjustment. my 1st gear is really notchy now, but at least it shifts ok.
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