With all this talk about little gain with bolt-ons, I am rethinking my next mod route. I don't plan on going FI anytime soon, maybe even never. I've decided my bolt-ons should be for sound, yet, not bolt on so many items that will affect my A/F ratio (don't want to do TS ECU upgrade). I currently have the Stillen intake and plan on switching to a different exhaust because my car got rear ended and I think my HKS may be damaged. Insurance would be paying for the price of the HKS but I want to switch to something different. I had the Fuji before and didn't like it because of the big tips. Can anyone comment on the sound of the Injen compared to stock? Is it deeper/louder? Is there a drone? What's the piping and tips diameter compared to stock? I think I also want to do the Crawford Plenum next for sound and "some gains" of course, but will adding this third aftermarket part to my N/A engine affect my A/F ratio so much that it'll be "unhealthy" for my engine unless I do a ECU upgrade?

Black on Black 5AT Coupe, Navi
Falken Koblenz 19x8.5 F 19x9.5 R
Falken FK-451 245/35 F 285/35 R
HKS Legamax Exhaust
350Z Duct
Stillen Hi Flow
7 Wire Hypergrounding Kit

 

Reading this is making me cry [img]/w3timages/icons/frown.gif[/img].

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

I would just like to add that any mod that is capable of causing your car to run lean by _increasing the air mass flow rate_ is a mod that works. If you add headers and a plenum to your engine and your A/F ratio go up, that means the mods are working.

Of course it would help a lot to get your A/F ratio recalibrated to nominal values but the final result will be increased HP.

I am glad to hear that mods are causing engines to run lean. That means the mods are not all bogus.

2004 G35 6MT Blk/Blk Sedan Stillen Air, Stillen Exhaust

 

Just remember that the AF ratio is intentionally way over rich [during acceleration] as part of the stock WARRANTY PLAN [program] to increase durability.

Leaning the AF increases cylinder heat and coolant load on the system.

Why the factory warns against mods.

Unfortunately with a new design light weight duty engine [cost controlled], there are always teething problems for the first 2-3 years of production.

Mods just give them an excuse to try to blame the problems on owners mainly because SO FEW previous Infiniti were modded and they never had serious engine problems before with the 3.0 liter.

 

The mod I'm REALLY like to see is not a mod at all, but keep it stock and strip the car down to the barest. I'm not talking cutting torch bare, but if it's bolted or glued and can be done without, it goes. Were talking spare tire, all the carpet, passenger seats, stereo equipment, window motors, glass (go plexi), sunroof, etc.

Are we talking hundreds of pounds here? Slap on some race wheels and tunable suspension and go racing. Just think, our coupes can already outrun a 330Ci, and they weigh nearly 200 pounds less, and have less power, but they still keep up. If you doubt this approach, put your biggest buddy (say 200 pounds) in the passenger seat, go race and then kick him out. It's noticable.

==============================
2004 G35 Coupe 6MT, Desert Platinum
1968 Chevy C10, never ending hobby

 

I agree with much of this. I think many of the mods may just provide a more pleasing sound to the car owner. I love how most of this board admits that many bolt on mods do not contribte much to the power gains = we are not a ricer board.

I think the mod that has been neglected in this area was the suspension mods. I have not had experience with suspension mods on my G, but I have driven cars with full coilover systems, and they ride much better than stock. Would anyone agree with me that suspension mods are probably the best way to make our G's better?

Black / Black 2004 GcoupeMT. Premium. Splash Guardz.

 

Absolutely agree!.

The mod which provided the greatest single improvement in drivability was the installation of Eibach anti-roll bars F & R. The ride is not harsher, but the car handles noticeably better than one with the OEM sport suspension.

 

I have to disagree with you Brian..

When I built the turbo kit for my maxima I hardly had any problems and I toted 335whp and 326tq on a daily driven car. You're sc/er had 50/70 less whp and tq and had problems. The sc/er for the maxima was just not well engineered in my opinion and unless you went with a more tune-able setup you could easily run into problems.

I think exhaust/intake/plenum/etc mods are absolutely worthless for the VQ motor. You get some power through the curve but you always end up losing it somewhere else and gaining a lot more noise. What is the point in spending over 2-3k in exhaust/intake and other crap when you can save that and put it towards a more rewarding and well spent source of power?

I think the G35 is a great car, but by no means are simple bolt ons going to make it feel like a "fast" car. I definitely didn't buy this car for it's ability to hang with a couple cars on the road. I like rwd a lot, and the luxury and appeal of the car makes it all worth the while.

Cheers to those who don't want to go boost and enjoy being n/a powered, there is just no point in thinking you will be able to keep up with other cars..

October 2nd - Jacksonville, FL G35/350Z Meet

 

There are a few cars you should drive before you get too convinced of that. if 25-30 hp isn't something that matters to you then only FI will - 335hp makes you not care about 15 or 20 hp mods right?

2003.5 DP 5AT Sedan
14.2 @ 97.18
Z-Tube
K&N Drop In & Airbox Mod
10 Wire Hyper-Ground
Crawford Plenum (V4)
UR Crank Pulley
Hotchkis Sways (M/M)
Polk EX-3500 Tweeters/Shock Sensor/H-Liner