Hello, so I watched the DIY video (http://www.infinitihelp.com/diy/gsed...ment_video.htm)on how to change your own oil and it really seems simple to me and fun to do.

Right now the dealer has me on 3750 intervals to change oil at. I am not sure if I have synthetic or conventional motor oil.

I would like to switch to synthetic if I don't already have it since it seems its better for the long run since I am going to actually own the car in a few years.

I can pick up Mobil 1 here at advanced auto parts 23 bucks for a 4 quart bottle and then just 8 bucks more for the 1 quart. And I will pick up the K&N oil filter (HP-1008) for 13 bucks. I don't know what to get 5W-30? I live in S.FL so its hot most of the time.

Also in the video the person replaced the "Crush washer" were do I get this part? Do I need to change this?

Other then a Oil Filter wrench which I have to buy and a 14mm head for my socket wrench is there anything else needed? In the video he said to tighten by hand the Oil filter until I cant turn it is that sufficient enough? for the oil Drain plug I don't have anything other then a socket wrench to tighten. he said just to tighten it until you don't see the washer. Any other more exact ways to tighten it with out having to buy a torque wrench?

After all of its done apart for the first normal "infiniti" interval (3750 miles) do I still change the oil at the same intervals or can I go higher?


Thanks

 

I find that Walmart is very cheap for Mobil 1. Costco has some good deals every now and then. The mechanical I used for years always tightened it by hand. I'm crazy and always use a torque wrench. Washer can be had at a dealer. Cheaper if you get it online. Check out www.g35parts.com or www.courtesyparts.com, I'm sure there are others. Trick - at Courtesy... you can get a washer for the 350... but strangely, they charge less if you get one for the Max... Odd but true. Same part.

In terms of intervals... safest is 3750. But some go higher with no issues. I do mine at 3750 since I do it myself, isn't so hard, and it's the cheapest insurance you'll every buy for long motor life.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/11128a-...=714_880_4407&

Found it, ok I could just go to the dealer and pick it up. Is it needed? Or only if there's a leak?

 

Oh also, Could I just use 2 jacks instead of buying a ramp?

My moms car has a jack which is for an SUV I assume it can lift my car up high enough, but then the jack that's in the car might not go that high. I will take a look at them I guess and see.

 

The crush washer (part listed) is a required part. You HAVE to have one. And... for your safety, I'd seriously say get some ramps. It makes life so much easier, but more importantly, safer. If you use jacks, get some jack stands. Safety first. It'd be lame to give your self a kick a$$ oil change only to drop a car on yourself while tightening the drain bolt. Doh!

 

yea, I might get ramps then just wondering :O. My question is about the washer is not if I need one. I know I need one. But do I need to replace the one that's on there already. If it leaks then I replace right?

Also The total capacity for oil is 5 quarts with a filter change, if for some reason it only need 4.8 how would I know I am over filling it. Will it simply just overflow or start to pool were I am pouring it in?

Sorry if any of these questions are dumb, I never changed oil before :O

 

The washer will need replaced, i picked mine up at the local nissan dealership for 99 cents, i bought 5 for future oil changes (yes you can get them cheaper online but whats 20 cents?!). To change your oil you will need something to raise the front of the car, either jack it up and place some jack stands or get a set of ramps. A 2-1/2 ton jack will run you from 40-60 bucks and a set of (2) jack stands same weight run about $25 per set. A set of ramps (i have rhino ramps) cost me 50 bucks. Ive seen on here some members make a "makeshift ramp" out of wood by stacking them flat on each other.

Adding 5 quarts will not hurt, its only an extra 200cc. If you were to add another liter, yes that would hurt. After you have replaced the washer and gave it a good and snug but not too snug pull (remember, you have to get that bad boy off again in the future) and you have replaced your filter, pour in your oil until you have reached your 5q. Replace the cap, lower your car to a LEVEL surface, start it for 5 minutes and give the oil time to circulate. After 5 minutes, take it around the block a few times to heat up the engine and oil and then park it. Let your car sit for 10 minutes. Go back and check the dipstick. You should be at full capacity, need no oil, and voila your oil is changed. If it is low, add oil in 200cc increments, start the car for 5 and let it sit for 5.

Hope this helps. Ive been doing my own oil changes since i was 16. My step-dad wanted me to know about cars and how to take care of them. Now at 25 i can safely say it was one of the best skills ive learned about a car. Its the cheapest way to keep engine health, well one of the cheapest.

 

walmart sells 5 qt jugs of mobil 1 or castrol syntec for $25

use 5w-30

get the crush washer from your closest nissan or infiniti dealer

 

never go under a car supported by just jacks

get jack stands or use ramps

 

oh and good luck!

changing oil is fun

lol and don't throw the old oil in the trash

take it to autozone or somewhere where they can dispose of it properly... and for free

 

what do I use to collect the Oil when I empty it out?

And stock Oil is 5W-30 right? thats what I should get?

 

You can probably skip changing the crush washer every other oil change if you don't happen have one handy. Just be sure to check for leaks.

 

I think Ill go down to my local Infinity Dealer before I do the oil change just in case I need it. But umm what if it leaks once all the oils in? how to I change that part without dumping all the oil, I guess i should do the sure thing and replace the washer.

Also my final question (I hope) what should I use to collect the Old oil and to transport it?

 

Make your own ramps, like I did:

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...end-diy-4.html

I have no fear whatsoever of going under my car when I they are on my ramps.

Mobil1 0w-40, Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 appear to be nice to the G's engine.

Change the crush washer every change especially since you appear to be a novice at oil changes. Hand tighten the oil drain plug first then use a wrench to crush the washer. Once the washer is crushed, turn the bolt another 1/8 or so. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN OR YOU COULD DAMAGE YOUR OIL PAN. If you're not sure, get a torque wrench.

You should hand tighten the oil filter until you feel the gasket on the oil filter has made contact with the seat. Then tighten the filter by another 1/4 turn, no more. Honda recommends this if you don't have a torque wrench and I do the same thing on my G.

Finally, as with any oil, your oil change interval is dependent on your driving, city, highway, a mix of both and the oil. With synthetic, you should be able to go 5000 miles easily between changes. Anything less would be just a waste of money and time. If you want to do more research, go to BITOG.

 

Oil drain pan. Available at Autozone, Pepboys, Kmart, etc.