NA engine... need help.
NA engine... need help.
I"m new at the tuning game. I'm sure u can tell.
My question is whats the most rwhp/rtrq i can expect to get without goin FI? What mods do i need to get the best increases in both in both areas?
I own a 2005 6MT coupe.
Thnx in advance for ANY help fellas.
My question is whats the most rwhp/rtrq i can expect to get without goin FI? What mods do i need to get the best increases in both in both areas?
I own a 2005 6MT coupe.
Thnx in advance for ANY help fellas.
The only way your gonna make power n/a is to do a full motor build and bolts with a good tune. If you got the money might as well build the motor and go f/I, that's when you'll see real big power gains. Do a search also, there are plenty of threads about n/a here and on my350z.com.
I gained around 70whp/60wtq and spent an arm and a leg. For the price I've paid, a simple vortech would have cost a lot less and gained me a tremendous more amount of power. I don't regret it but it's something you should keep in mind. Once you start, it's hard not to think about more power.
Last edited by gabe3d; Aug 19, 2009 at 05:15 AM.
I also have a 2005 6mt Coupe...
I like the NA route because you can do things in stages. You don't necessarily have a one time $20k turbo installation... Also, NA seems more reliable... I don't have any turbos fail for sure... power is good... car is fun to drive. I like normally aspirated engines and I like fooling around with stuff myself... so it's fun for me.
The best I've done is 312 whp and about 260 wtq. That's pretty good with a standard bore and stroke... actually a +0.020 bore now. Adam at Z1 made 320 whp with a standard bore and stroke. That's about the best so far. You can add a stroker kit or add sleeves and a 100mm bore kit or both and go for 4.2L. That would make more power, but it would be much more expensive and you would have the hassle of sleeves.
-jb
I like the NA route because you can do things in stages. You don't necessarily have a one time $20k turbo installation... Also, NA seems more reliable... I don't have any turbos fail for sure... power is good... car is fun to drive. I like normally aspirated engines and I like fooling around with stuff myself... so it's fun for me.
The best I've done is 312 whp and about 260 wtq. That's pretty good with a standard bore and stroke... actually a +0.020 bore now. Adam at Z1 made 320 whp with a standard bore and stroke. That's about the best so far. You can add a stroker kit or add sleeves and a 100mm bore kit or both and go for 4.2L. That would make more power, but it would be much more expensive and you would have the hassle of sleeves.
-jb
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It's not that it's off topic but the perception sometimes is that FI is too expensive. Just giving him the heads up so that he doesn't go down a route he regrets. He only has 1 post so I take it he's fairly new to the game.
I also have a 2005 6mt Coupe...
I like the NA route because you can do things in stages. You don't necessarily have a one time $20k turbo installation... Also, NA seems more reliable... I don't have any turbos fail for sure... power is good... car is fun to drive. I like normally aspirated engines and I like fooling around with stuff myself... so it's fun for me.
The best I've done is 312 whp and about 260 wtq. That's pretty good with a standard bore and stroke... actually a +0.020 bore now. Adam at Z1 made 320 whp with a standard bore and stroke. That's about the best so far. You can add a stroker kit or add sleeves and a 100mm bore kit or both and go for 4.2L. That would make more power, but it would be much more expensive and you would have the hassle of sleeves.
-jb
I like the NA route because you can do things in stages. You don't necessarily have a one time $20k turbo installation... Also, NA seems more reliable... I don't have any turbos fail for sure... power is good... car is fun to drive. I like normally aspirated engines and I like fooling around with stuff myself... so it's fun for me.
The best I've done is 312 whp and about 260 wtq. That's pretty good with a standard bore and stroke... actually a +0.020 bore now. Adam at Z1 made 320 whp with a standard bore and stroke. That's about the best so far. You can add a stroker kit or add sleeves and a 100mm bore kit or both and go for 4.2L. That would make more power, but it would be much more expensive and you would have the hassle of sleeves.
-jb
You should head over to my350z.com to the NA build section. There are a few very nice all motor builds thread including _jb's and adam's. Lots of great information in them.
You guys are throwing around a bunch of loose numbers as if they are relevant…
It gets soooo old for people to say you’ll get xxx if you do xxx… every dyno is going to read different – so stop comparing numbers as if they are a definitive.
JB, Gabe and Adam (Z-1) all have great builds – and all have been well documented in the NA section of the Z forum – but for so many people referencing dyno numbers in relation to each others builds, its just no relevant... one guy might dyno much less on a machine that someone else posted numbers from…
Stop the forum dyno racing for gods sake.
OP – to answer your question… it is very expensive to get decent NA gains… basic bolts-ons & a tune might yield you 25-40 hp (depending on what you use)… cams & headers gain 15-25 more (again, depending on what you use)… Its debatable whether pistons, valves, heads, etc are viable (imo not cost beneficial unless doing >) a bored & stroked motor with lots of massaging will of course yield higher gains but at many thousands of dollars.
All in all it’s an avg of $100 per NA horse power… some mods yield more than others… but overall it will almost always avg around $100 per 1hp.
See my garage for my mods... and note, imo cams & headers were not cost beneficial... personally only a full NA build (higher displacement) would really be worth getting into internals...
Whether or not its worth it to go NA or FI is an entirely other subject.
It gets soooo old for people to say you’ll get xxx if you do xxx… every dyno is going to read different – so stop comparing numbers as if they are a definitive.
JB, Gabe and Adam (Z-1) all have great builds – and all have been well documented in the NA section of the Z forum – but for so many people referencing dyno numbers in relation to each others builds, its just no relevant... one guy might dyno much less on a machine that someone else posted numbers from…
Stop the forum dyno racing for gods sake.

OP – to answer your question… it is very expensive to get decent NA gains… basic bolts-ons & a tune might yield you 25-40 hp (depending on what you use)… cams & headers gain 15-25 more (again, depending on what you use)… Its debatable whether pistons, valves, heads, etc are viable (imo not cost beneficial unless doing >) a bored & stroked motor with lots of massaging will of course yield higher gains but at many thousands of dollars.
All in all it’s an avg of $100 per NA horse power… some mods yield more than others… but overall it will almost always avg around $100 per 1hp.
See my garage for my mods... and note, imo cams & headers were not cost beneficial... personally only a full NA build (higher displacement) would really be worth getting into internals...
Whether or not its worth it to go NA or FI is an entirely other subject.
Put it this way, there are only a handful of guys with NA non-stroked VQ35DE honestly yielding 300-320whp. And i really mean a handful (_jb, adam, rednezz, 1cockyz, threefivezero Z). You can go to the link below and look at their threads to see their component list, to get an idea on the price. Remember to factor in a few thousands for installation and tuning.
http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds-498/
http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds-498/
it would be cheaper to go FI.
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