Are the drive belt intervals based more on mileage or years?
#16
08-21-2009, 09:44 AM
I bleed brake fluid yearly, i try to suggest people do it every 2 years. If you live where it's dry you might be able to do 3 years. Maybe people never do it, so i wouldn't lose sleep over it, but if your fluid is dark and not honey colored, i would def change it.
But i bleed my brakes yearly and always notice improved feel.
As for belts, i replace on appearance. my car has 40K and 3 years old but one belt is already showing cracks, so i'll change it soon.
For belts, i've always run Goodyear Gatorback belts. A little expensive for a parts store belt, but cheaper than OEM.
But i bleed my brakes yearly and always notice improved feel.
As for belts, i replace on appearance. my car has 40K and 3 years old but one belt is already showing cracks, so i'll change it soon.
For belts, i've always run Goodyear Gatorback belts. A little expensive for a parts store belt, but cheaper than OEM.
Right now it's still honey color on my G so maybe I'll just set it aside. 
How hard is it to bleed and can it be done by 1 person?
#17
08-21-2009, 09:45 AM
look at the belts, if they show signs of cracking on the ribbed parts of it, you should replace them shortly. Or you can just give it a interval of like 50k or something.
You need one person to do it. The belt once installed properly will stay on reguardless of tension. Then you just tighten it to something you deem decent. If you start it up and it squeals then its most likely too tighten, shut it off and give it some more slack. I didn't do it on the G35 but i did them on my maxima which runs a similiar engine VQ30. But its the exact same design. The first belt is really easy and the 2nd belt, i think is the PS belt that is slightly more diffcult but not much more. Anyone should be really able to handle this in an hour, maybe 2 hours tops.
You need one person to do it. The belt once installed properly will stay on reguardless of tension. Then you just tighten it to something you deem decent. If you start it up and it squeals then its most likely too tighten, shut it off and give it some more slack. I didn't do it on the G35 but i did them on my maxima which runs a similiar engine VQ30. But its the exact same design. The first belt is really easy and the 2nd belt, i think is the PS belt that is slightly more diffcult but not much more. Anyone should be really able to handle this in an hour, maybe 2 hours tops.
#18
08-21-2009, 09:47 AM
Yeah, that's what I've read some people do as well. Suck it out with turkey baster and replace with new fluids. Is that perfectly ok? Will it pump some air bubbles in with the baster and do any harm?
#19
08-21-2009, 09:47 AM
Cracking of the belt ribs is entirely fine, even according to the Nissan FSM. Once the ribs start flaking off or the belt is showing signs of rot, then it's time to replace. Belts are one of those things that replaced way too often, IMO. My 96 Maxima had the orginial belts on it when I sold it with 113 miles. Of course there's no harm in replacing the belt more often than needed.
#20
08-21-2009, 10:05 AM
#21
08-21-2009, 10:10 AM
I can do easy stuff like oil changes but no where remotely near the expertise of some of the hard core mechanics on this forum.
#22
08-21-2009, 11:51 PM
its not hard core. at all. most bleeder screws are like 8mm-11mm.
you need a wrench and a small hose, all your wife needs to do is step on the brakes when you tell her to and hold it down and let go when you tell her too. all simple CAKE work. nothing hard core at all.
have her step on the pedal, attach the hose and then with your wrench open the screw, fluid will come out and tell her to keep holding it. once all the fluid comes out close it and then and only then can she let her foot off the pedal.
pass rear, driver rear, pass front and then drivers front.
while bleeding watch the fluid in your bottle and refill it. never let it go empty.
you need a wrench and a small hose, all your wife needs to do is step on the brakes when you tell her to and hold it down and let go when you tell her too. all simple CAKE work. nothing hard core at all.
have her step on the pedal, attach the hose and then with your wrench open the screw, fluid will come out and tell her to keep holding it. once all the fluid comes out close it and then and only then can she let her foot off the pedal.
pass rear, driver rear, pass front and then drivers front.
while bleeding watch the fluid in your bottle and refill it. never let it go empty.
#23
08-22-2009, 01:03 AM
its not hard core. at all. most bleeder screws are like 8mm-11mm.
you need a wrench and a small hose, all your wife needs to do is step on the brakes when you tell her to and hold it down and let go when you tell her too. all simple CAKE work. nothing hard core at all.
have her step on the pedal, attach the hose and then with your wrench open the screw, fluid will come out and tell her to keep holding it. once all the fluid comes out close it and then and only then can she let her foot off the pedal.
pass rear, driver rear, pass front and then drivers front.
while bleeding watch the fluid in your bottle and refill it. never let it go empty.
you need a wrench and a small hose, all your wife needs to do is step on the brakes when you tell her to and hold it down and let go when you tell her too. all simple CAKE work. nothing hard core at all.
have her step on the pedal, attach the hose and then with your wrench open the screw, fluid will come out and tell her to keep holding it. once all the fluid comes out close it and then and only then can she let her foot off the pedal.
pass rear, driver rear, pass front and then drivers front.
while bleeding watch the fluid in your bottle and refill it. never let it go empty.
#24
08-23-2009, 08:25 PM
i never saw the DIY video. Its really not hard all at. some wheels you dont need to take off the wheels. Looking at my Z track wheels, i think i can get do it without removing the wheels.
But just lift the rear end up. jack stand it. crawl under to see if you can do it on the inside. some cars can done without removal of the wheels. If you can then good, if not just do the rears first. call the wifey out to do the peddle stepping and once your done tell her to go back inside. then lift the front.
A brake flush is $115-150 at most dealerships. You can go either way with it, since this isn't like a yearly service. But since you did all the diff changes i figured you would be more interested in getting everyone done by yourself. I have my little brother or GF step on the peddle for me. everything goes well.
But just lift the rear end up. jack stand it. crawl under to see if you can do it on the inside. some cars can done without removal of the wheels. If you can then good, if not just do the rears first. call the wifey out to do the peddle stepping and once your done tell her to go back inside. then lift the front.
A brake flush is $115-150 at most dealerships. You can go either way with it, since this isn't like a yearly service. But since you did all the diff changes i figured you would be more interested in getting everyone done by yourself. I have my little brother or GF step on the peddle for me. everything goes well.
#25
08-24-2009, 09:21 AM
i never saw the DIY video. Its really not hard all at. some wheels you dont need to take off the wheels. Looking at my Z track wheels, i think i can get do it without removing the wheels.
But just lift the rear end up. jack stand it. crawl under to see if you can do it on the inside. some cars can done without removal of the wheels. If you can then good, if not just do the rears first. call the wifey out to do the peddle stepping and once your done tell her to go back inside. then lift the front.
A brake flush is $115-150 at most dealerships. You can go either way with it, since this isn't like a yearly service. But since you did all the diff changes i figured you would be more interested in getting everyone done by yourself. I have my little brother or GF step on the peddle for me. everything goes well.
But just lift the rear end up. jack stand it. crawl under to see if you can do it on the inside. some cars can done without removal of the wheels. If you can then good, if not just do the rears first. call the wifey out to do the peddle stepping and once your done tell her to go back inside. then lift the front.
A brake flush is $115-150 at most dealerships. You can go either way with it, since this isn't like a yearly service. But since you did all the diff changes i figured you would be more interested in getting everyone done by yourself. I have my little brother or GF step on the peddle for me. everything goes well.
#26
08-24-2009, 09:55 AM
This is the method i use to bleed the brakes all by my lonesone self.
Usually i take off all 4 wheels and put the car on jackstands, but you can do it 1 wheel at a time starting from rear and then the front two.
Take off wheel
slip closed end of correct wrench over bleeder screw
place clear hose on bleeder nipple and put end into bottle large enough to hold brake fluid.
crack bleeder screw open (usually 1/2 turn or so)
run back to drivers seat and begin pumping brake pedal.
make sure you check the level of fluid in the mc. DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY
I ususally run the mc down the first time, fill it and then run a cup through each caliper.
You don't have to close the bleeder between strokes. Most people say to, but i've found it doesn't draw fluid and air back in the caliper
I've done my G35 and other cars this way
Usually i take off all 4 wheels and put the car on jackstands, but you can do it 1 wheel at a time starting from rear and then the front two.
Take off wheel
slip closed end of correct wrench over bleeder screw
place clear hose on bleeder nipple and put end into bottle large enough to hold brake fluid.
crack bleeder screw open (usually 1/2 turn or so)
run back to drivers seat and begin pumping brake pedal.
make sure you check the level of fluid in the mc. DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY
I ususally run the mc down the first time, fill it and then run a cup through each caliper.
You don't have to close the bleeder between strokes. Most people say to, but i've found it doesn't draw fluid and air back in the caliper
I've done my G35 and other cars this way
#27
08-25-2009, 12:43 PM
Good to know!
Everytime I stop by the dealer, they try to hit me up for new belts at $160. I gave in once so far and that was 30k miles ago. Today they look fine and I even had one of the mechanics tell me I need belts again last week. Any Maxima that I've had before only called for this once the entire time I owned it and they were clearly cracked at the time.
WTF? LOL
Everytime I stop by the dealer, they try to hit me up for new belts at $160. I gave in once so far and that was 30k miles ago. Today they look fine and I even had one of the mechanics tell me I need belts again last week. Any Maxima that I've had before only called for this once the entire time I owned it and they were clearly cracked at the time.
WTF? LOL
#28
08-25-2009, 12:56 PM
As for the belts, like it was stated above, cracking is about normal. Well minor cracking. But when you get to the point were a peice of the ribbed part is missing or it makes noises it might be time to replace. Since the belts are only $20-35 and about 5-10 minutes of your time, i rather replace them they just adjust them if they are showing signs of wear.
#29
08-25-2009, 02:37 PM
I've done it with a 2 foot hose, and the bottle on the ground.
From time to time i have another person pump the pedal (just easier) and stand by the caliper. I used to close between pumps but started to leave it open between pumps and oberved the fluid only came out, but didn't "suck" back in like you would expect. Ever since them i just open the bleeder and pump away.
I've done it many times since. I own 3 cars and try to bleed brakes yearly. My "leave the bleeder open" method has worked fine for me.
But it does help to have a buddy...or get a homeless guy to give you a hand for a cookie
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