Hi,

I've read quite a few threads on the drive belts and when they should be changed and it seems to vary. My car is 4 yr and 8 months now on the original belts at 32k miles. No squealing noise and I don't see any cracks. Should I change them or wait till it starts squealing? I saw the DIY video and seems like a project that I can give a try instead of bringing it out to the shop.

My other car (Sentra) had the belts replaced about 2 yrs ago because it was squealing. After it was changed it was also squealing and the mechanic tighten it for me and that lasted a little while until it started squealing again. It's been making the noise on and off for almost 2 years now (5,000 miles) but it's still running.

Thanks...

 

changing the belts is alot easier than people make it out to be

the hardest part is removing the plastic under plate

might need someone to help you guide the belt.

I changed mine right at 50k, not cuz of mileage but because of cracking.

The texas dry heat toasted them.

If they are not to badly cracked or damaged, id say leave em

 

Thanks. Removing the plastic underneath is not a problem. I do that all the time during oil changes. Did you change the belt yourself? From the DIY video, there were 2 people but I would have to do it myself if I am going to try and swap out the belts.

My car is almost garage so it doesn't get expose to the heat.

 

While I am at this maybe you guys can shed some light on as to when to bleed brake fluids and steering fluids. They are all original and so is my battery.

I've done draining atf, front/rear differential, transfer, and coolant.

 

i have never completely drained the brake or power steering fluid on any car I have ever owned.

Never had a problem

the battery I would probably do now, it will give you about 1/2 a days notice and then go out....ask me how I know.

there is a maint schedule posted here in the tech section that will give you the intervals for all fluids and such

 

the reason for two people is just to make the job a little easier, I could of done it my self but my dad was around that day and just held the belt in place while I tightened the pulley

 

how you know?

What you mean by never completely drained? meaning partially drained?

Shouldn't I wait for it to have problem cranking before swapping? So far it starts with no problem. That plus I have two cars so worst comes to worst, I'll take the other car if the battery on the G dies. But I know it's gotta be changed sooner or later.

 

Gotcha!

 

I believe belts should be changed when u can SEE them need to be changed. If u live in hotter states (CA, AZ, TX, etc) ur belts will dry out faster and start cracking. for example my car has 48K miles on it, ive changed the spark plugs, intake and flushed my radiator fluid, but never changed the belts. every oil change i check them. also if u DO noticed worn belts, u might as well go ahead and change all three while ur at it. the only reason belts squeak is when they are loos, so if ur getting squeaking but ur belts look ok, just tighten them

just my .02
good luck

 

look at the belts, if they show signs of cracking on the ribbed parts of it, you should replace them shortly. Or you can just give it a interval of like 50k or something.

You need one person to do it. The belt once installed properly will stay on reguardless of tension. Then you just tighten it to something you deem decent. If you start it up and it squeals then its most likely too tighten, shut it off and give it some more slack. I didn't do it on the G35 but i did them on my maxima which runs a similiar engine VQ30. But its the exact same design. The first belt is really easy and the 2nd belt, i think is the PS belt that is slightly more diffcult but not much more. Anyone should be really able to handle this in an hour, maybe 2 hours tops.

 

I also recommend getting your belts from NAPA (Gates brand) because they wear better than the OEM belts. I replaced my original OEM belts at about 45k, the small one had a bit of cracking. Replaced the NAPA belts at 92k but they still looked near-perfect when I took them off. The NAPA belts are cheaper too, especially now because the OEM belts seem to cost a LOT more than they used to, if memory serves.

 

I bleed brake fluid yearly, i try to suggest people do it every 2 years. If you live where it's dry you might be able to do 3 years. Maybe people never do it, so i wouldn't lose sleep over it, but if your fluid is dark and not honey colored, i would def change it.

But i bleed my brakes yearly and always notice improved feel.

As for belts, i replace on appearance. my car has 40K and 3 years old but one belt is already showing cracks, so i'll change it soon.


For belts, i've always run Goodyear Gatorback belts. A little expensive for a parts store belt, but cheaper than OEM.

 

i love gates belts, a lot of OEM companys run rebranded gates belts. Nothing wrong with gatorback as well. Just i perfer gates over gatorback.

brakes... i do when i do a brake job, well aleast that axle. As long as the fluid isn't black your good. PS fluid... you almost dont even have to worry about it, since you cant really flush it out. you can disconnect the line going in and coming out and drain the bottle. Which should be about 50% of the fluid but thats about all your getting. Kinda like a drain and fill with the ATF.

 

I do the same, sometimes i just use a turkey baster and suck it out. I've never gone crazy with flushing PS lines.

 

Cracking of the belt ribs is entirely fine, even according to the Nissan FSM. Once the ribs start flaking off or the belt is showing signs of rot, then it's time to replace. Belts are one of those things that replaced way too often, IMO. My 96 Maxima had the orginial belts on it when I sold it with 113 miles. Of course there's no harm in replacing the belt more often than needed.