Ok, so I checked the oil AGAIN, it has been competely cold for over 12 hours (now morning).

And it's still right at H.

 

After the next oil change, I'm going to drive a common 'normal', not exactly grandma, but not exactly my style of driving either.

This is all very relative and perceptive though.

But I'll report back any reversal, if none, well then you have a fix for the vq35de, run her HARD and she'll finally break in. HARD = red lining, cruising with high revs (4k and up), engine braking, rev matching, full throttle, highway driving with low gears (2nd, 3rd, 4th) - full throttle to redline (or atleast revving up 2k rpms from starting point) and engine braking down.

The only other variables to consider: its gotten a lot colder lately, I use 93 not 91, and I did my style 'break in' (even tho at 27k miles) in the 4k to 6k mile usage of oil i was on (yes it was topped off, and still been driving hard after the oil change, which is right now).

 

Another 200 or so miles put on, and still noooo oil burnt, no one is excited? lol.

Still golden brown too.

Dealership said I burned about a quart at 2700 miles, I'm at 2100 miles right now, and um well I'm at H. Can't wait to see their faces next time I bring my car in.

 

Another report to add....the car has sooo much more power now, more torque.

Every time I think I'm in a lower gear, I'm actually in a higher one.

Such as I'll be driving around in 4th, with the torque of 3rd, I'll look down and be like holy crap I'm in 4th?? And I can take turns in 4th gear, and the engine won't bog even though I'm close to 1k rpm or lower. I def broke her in now.

I'm still skeptical whether it will turn back to burning oil, I doubt it. The oil is still beautiful golden brown at H.

 

Just the fact that I'm not burning oil, but that the oil is golden brown, and I have increased torque throughout the entire rpm range, even while just cruising around.

Leads me to believe one thing.........this is a FIX.

...but I'll try my best after the next oil change to make my right foot not as heavy (that will be hard), and really put it to the test.

 

One possible explanation, if this has fixed it, is that your rings never properly were mated to the inside of the piston. Driving it hard may have put the extra pressure on there to make them mate up properly.

I read a very well-written article about how taking it too easy on break-in can prevent the rings and pistons from ever mating properly, and eventually causing it to leak inside.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm is pretty close, but not sure if it's the exact one I once read.

 

Yeah I think I did some kind of ring sealing, whether that be to the cylinder wall or the piston itself.

One thing is for sure, while I was doing all this, my engine smelled, it came thru the vents. It doesn't do it anymore, no matter how hard I push her...hmf.


I asked someone, what exactly made our engines burn oil and they said rings, so I was like fukk it, I'm gonna run the engine hard and see what happens, what do I have to lose. Of course its more than just driving hard, its mainly the point of using lower gears, high revs, sustaining high revs, and doing highway pulses of flooring it and engine brake and flooring again. Basically doing stuff, that make people think they're going to harm their engine, when in reality they're making it healthier, its just physics after all.

Edit: yeah, I took some ideas from mototune, with the flooring and engine braking, in a low gear on the highway. But he says to beat on your engine when its brand new, I just don't believe that philosophy. If you're the kind of guy who rebuilds engines and what not (which he does), I prob would too, since there's not much risk involved, other than just re-honing or whatever else. But I'd rather let the engine and the rest of the car for that matter 'get ready', and begin to walk, before it runs. The philosophy of 'babying' the car through break in, is what I consider a crawl. And we all know that will just glaze the walls. I'd suggest a moderate break in, then finally a hard break in. Consider it a two phase process.

 

The oil, even after 2300 miles, looks almost brand new. Reminds me of the oil I had in the RSX. And that was synthetic lol. (after seeing the car doesn't burn oil, anymore, I will sooner or later switch to synthetic)

Its almost a clear light brown up top, and turns to a nice golden brown by the end of the stick.

It used to be dark brown near top, and BLACK near the end of the stick.

I'm very happy thus far with the results, not only for the health of my car, but the added torque, it feels like a different car, a different engine. But I won't make my happiness official until 3000 miles, just to be sure.

Edit: I'm actually having thoughts, that 'maybe' the mechanics at the dealership, added something to stop it from burning oil? Without saying anything? Maybe, but that might just be me getting carried away.

 

At 2500 miles (on the oil that is) now, 200 miles away from the quart of oil usage estimate. I was a little easier on her today.

Checked the oil, still at H. However I did notice its a little 'clearer' at the top but the liquid is still there. I'll check in morning with normal light instead of at night with bulb.

Lookin to hit 3k, with it at H. I'll take a pic.

Already pretty astounding, that I should be at L, and no where near it.

Further more, I don't understand the argument of burning 'less' oil just by driving harder. Most cars burn MORE oil in that scenario.

I feel like I'm talking to myself lol, ok here we go 3k miles........these next 500 miles, I'll take it easy, well 'easy.'

Edit: My bad, just checked miles on oil, its at 2660 miles! so I'm only 40 miles away from 2700, so I should be a quart down. And I'm not...

 

hmmm, ill have to investigate this for myself. although my mechanic never told me of any abnormally low oil levels during any oil changes. i know its an issue for revups but i guess ive never really looked into that hard. but i do like the idea of just driving hard all the time, minus the price of gas, cops, and baltimore rush hours.

 

Engines generate high vacuum under part throttle and generate no vacuum at WOT. The PVC system operates under high vacuum and pulls oil vapor back into the engine where some of it is burned. For whatever reason, the 6MT cars tend to consume more oil than the 5ATs. Consistently driving hard could reduce some of the oil consumption through the PVC and could possibly reduce oil blow-by at the rings due to higher compression temps and compression pressures. The improved power is most likely both a placebo effect of driving hard and the ECU adjusting throttle control through it's fuzzy logic tuning (ie drive harder, more often and the ECU will make the throttle response more aggressive).

Continue driving like you are unti 3K miles, replace the oil and then drive like you use to. That will truly answer the question of whether or not this is a cure. My guess is it's not because there have been hundreds of cases of these Revups having OC issues over the past 4 years, regardless of driving style.

 

Yeah, well I engine brake a lot though too, at high revs. That's major vacuum. And I don't redline all day long. That should definitely pull oil out, but hasn't.

But a whole quart difference? That's major to me.

Further more, yes there is probability of placebo. But for a whole gear to have the power of the one before it is substantial, especially since I was surprised to see where the stick was located after driving around in a certain gear.

 

Here's a pic of my oil at 2600 miles, in the morning, after sitting all night long.

It's finally turning darker brown, but right at H.

 

This use to be my car at ONE THOUSAND miles (1000). See also the transition of color, from gold to dark brown almost black, drastic contrast before I started driving hard.

https://g35driver.com/forums/attachm...t-grrr-dip.jpg

Remember I'm now at 2700 miles ( I was told I burn a quart at 2700 miles ), and I'm currently still right at H!

 

many years ago I bought a new 65 Corvette 365hp 4 spd. right from the beginning it smoked and yes I babied it. after a couple of thousand miles I took it back to the dealer for a fix....I called after a day to see if they could find the problem...they told me that the car had been stolen off the dealer lot. It was gone for about three days when they found the car PARKED at their paint shop at a different location. All of the misc. chrome/stainless parts were gone from the engine which they replaced with new....the car no longer SMOKED but the entire top of the engine was covered with white power. smelling it seemed to be CLEANSER....I inquired what this powder was and sure enough it was Bon Ami Cleanser....they told me that is what they do when they get a SMOKER.(pour Bon Ami into the carb.)...the car ran good after that ha ha.