In the case of the sound system it is possible on some Infinitis to have increased rail voltage due to the fact most grounding kits have a ground from the engine bay to the negative terminal which bypasses the stock ground and the current sensor which surrounds it. If the car starts with the stock ground the stock ground only is used to keep the battery charged and hence a large diameter cable to it is unnecessary. In the case of a stock 08 you will usually see less than 5 amps on the negative lead to the battery while the fully loaded positive cable side will show 40 amps after the car has been running for more than a minute or two or three. The battery is essentially out of the picture with loads supplied by the alternator but no one addresses the size of the conductors suppling the actual loads which are capable of supplying somewhere around 130 amps or so (fusible link) on a 110 amp alternator supplied system.

Also anytime you have more than two conductors on the same grounding bolt you have a at least one at a different potential than the outside two, in the example above you will see at least 3 of these cases. Different potentials mean circular currents. Use of grounding blocks help to avoid this situation which is common with ring style connector ends. As far as sensors being helped in most cases on the Infiniti you should see little difference. The example below is basically speaking about audio connections similar to the the Infiniti but also applies to most of the sensors on the Infiniti as well which are balanced to avoid noise introduction.

http://www.dplay.com/dv/balance/balance.html

Differential grounding can induce noise. In the case of balanced lines you will see an attempt to avoid this possibility by the fact that often times only one end of the shield is grounded.

Of course if your stock grounds are defective then you may see some improvements.

Many have seen benefits by simply fixing defective stock grounds and doing what most grounding kits have you do after installation - resetting the ecm. Resetting your modules will usually make the car feel different after doing so even if you don't replace or repair any of your wiring.

Also in the case of electron flow it is actually the reverse of current flow, a fact that may have driven the introduction of positive grounded cars (with possible corrosion issues). If increasing the size of conductors it may actually make more sense to increase the size of the positive since this is your actual return path. You are not going to increase system current flow capacity by increasing just one leg if the remaining leg is the same size as the original opposite leg.

Perry

 

You know it. Now about that discount on some polished parts..........

 

^let me know what you need.

 

Will do but it'll be a few weeks

 

Sean are the v2 kits in the works?

i just sold my v1 kit for $80 bills

 

yeah Wes, I can make one for you but the install instructions will just be hand-written on photos since I havent had the time to make a real set. The install is pretty simple.

 

Here is Sean's V2 Stealth grounding kit for 6mt. Can you find the wire?

 

Hey Sean, could you explain to me what you mean by the new kit reaching the same grounding points "directly"? Does this mean the new kit has split wires like the Stillin kit?

 

^ no split wires like Stillen. The original kit uses a "daisy-chain" layout to connect all the crucial grounding points but the stealth kit individually routes each grounding point to one central location.