(tears are rolling down my face as I'm typing) "Whaaaaahhh... hup hup... whaaaaahhh... hup hup hup... whaaaahhh!" I feel your pain. Good luck with the rebuild. Do I smell 6MT?

-Kawika
My S-10
P.S.
For those who care. I drive a Silver Sedan 6MT CA license plate "KRZ HAYN" = "Krazy Hawaiian". A "Shaka" is always welcome.

 

Gurgen, I'm so sorry to hear what happened! It was nice to meet you on Sat. and thanks for the ride. It felt like an airplane taking off!

I hope all goes well with your new rebuilding plans.

By looking at the pictures of the broken parts, you would be able to tell how they broke (I'm a mechanical engineer), but my guess is a weak con rod that fractured during the expansion stroke.

-------------------------------------------
2004 6MT DG/G Coupe | Premium | Aero Kit | ClearBra | See profile for pix

 

Guys.... all of you

thanks very much for the support... Let me just say the following:

IMO, to be close to 100% safe (and we all know that it's not possible even on an N/A motor) you NEED to build the engine with forged pieces. This has happened to a few Z's at high 5's and low 6 psi of boost. I think the matter is that you just don't know how good a rods you have. A few people on the Z boards as well, including the APS engineer, think it's a weak/underspec rod. And that makes sense, I had no audible/inadible knock whatsoever. At 4000 rpm (up to 5250, actually) the native ECU itself can pull timing if it detects knock (on all cylinders even if the J&S malfunctioed, which it did not), and that's in addition to the 5+ degrees that I was pulling already. Knock usually happens on the top end, and given that it blew at 4300 rpm or so, that's dispositive of a strength-related failure.

So, to answer the question, you can boost on a stock engine if you stock rods are strong enough. the thing is that you will never know until it is too late. I do not agree that you are sufficiently safe with a stock motor at anything over ~5 psi. But that's just my opinion.

I will be posting the pics of the incident (no engine pics yet) in a few minutes. I have got several scenarios running through my head now.... but can't do anything until I talk to some people tomorrow. You guys can be sure of one thing, that EVERY step of this rebuild will be documented for your reading pleasure to the best of my ability.

Thanks again

Gurgen

 

Hey Guys

Here are the pics enjoy.... Thanks goes out to Andy (chenga) for these...

 

Ouch! This is painful to read. My whole body hurts.

I'm sorry your car took a dump, and I'm glad nobody was hurt. Take care, keep your chin up, and let us know how the rebuild goes.

'03 G35s 5AT, Garnet Fire/Willow
Staggered 18" SSR GT1/Bridgestone PP S03
Eibach Springs/Sways, Stillen 2-pc BBK
Stillen Intake & SS Cat-Back Dual Exhaust

 

Thanks bullseye

I am realy thankful for that too.... it would be a nightmare if the smoke caused an accident behind me.... G

 

WUTT>?!!!
u broke the rod at 4k rpm??? that's insane! now we officially know VQ35's rods are POS.! I'm currently running 5.5psi with super rich setup and shift at 3K to make SURE I don't break this POS rod til rebuild the engine. how's your stock block?

S-tuned~

 

ROFL RSpec!

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

LMAO! Rspec

The stock block has got a hole in it's side.... Those pieces in my hand (pic above) are pieces of the block we were able to find on the road... Do the motor build, then boost to 25 psi and be happy wth your 750 crank HP.

My Plan:

9.3:1 Arias forged pistons
Pouter rods
ARP main/head studs
Big injectors
Darton sleeves (hopefully)

 

Seems like fun bro! Hopefully everything will be arlight, we are here for yah.

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

Sorry to hear your loss. As you probably know this is what happened to my coupe with 6.6lbs and the greddy kit. I tuned it rich, but you just don't know the limits of the rods until it is too late. Which rod broke? Mine has been down since 7/1. I am still waiting on the new ARP designed head and main studs.

 

Joe... I do remember your case very well..... I really think that we have enough evidence to conclude (relatively safely) that the rods are just too weak in some cases....

We should talk some time and compare notes. You are getting the studs through the my350z.com GB, correct? I am. Studs are about 3 weeks out, rods about 2 weeks out, and I already have the pistons...

So, now deciding if I should do sleeves. If I do, that baby will be able to take a lot of abuse for a VERY long time, not to mention boost...

You got PM

 

Thanks Joey.. thanks....

 

My block is already getting sleeves right now. I am using AEBS sleeves. I am having my local machine shop do the work because I didn't want to ship my block to California and AEBS can take a very long time. I also purchased my rods and pistons from them. EDM drilled Pauter rods, but I got 100mm ross pistons to go along with the sleeved block. This makes a 3.8 liter. Two problems that I am having right now are the studs. Machine shop wants them to do the final bore and hone. And Cometics still doesn't have a 100mm bore head gasket ready. I went ahead and sleeved my block because everyone said stock rods were good to 8lbs. of boost and they obviously were not. Now people are saying the stock block is good for 650whp. What happens when we get to 575whp and the block distorts and we have problems. Oh I guess the block is only good for 575whp. I am not going to be the one that finds that out. Too much invested to have anymore problems.

 

Gurgen,

Sorry about your car, sad to see a early 03 go down. You've got me real nervous and searching high and low for pricing on pistons and rods. Do you think the age of your car had anything to do with this? I know you probably have a lot of miles on your car, I have 44,000 right now. Were you excessively hard on your car that day? Could it be the rods get hot and weaker if you make several back to back boosting pulls? Hope you get things worked out.


Please let me know where I can find info on the group buy for forged internals.

In the mean time check out these links I've came across in tonights searches....

http://www.autosteel.org/pdfs/bar_ten_best_engines.pdf

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...s&pagenumber=1