Joey... I am not sure which figure you are quoting (Darton wanted 2000 just for sleevs and their install).

Forgot a few things.... Here is a more complete/realistic version:

$1670 (rods/pistons)
$379 (ARP studs)
$1200 (bottom end work)
$250 (half-decking the block - forgot to ask full decking price)
$720 (AEBS Sleeves)
$400 (sleeves install)
$600 (engine removal/installation)
$300 (freight charges - shipping the engine SGP/elsewhere)

So..
Total (no sleeves): $4399
Total (w/ sleeves): $5519

Now, I still need to add ~$1500 to the above figures for a new block/used engine. Wow... I am definitely not getting wheels...

Gurgen

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gurgenpb on 09/20/04 06:25 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Pauter rods are pre-shot-peened....is that a word?

 

Sorry to hear about this Gurgen. Looks like they have had some experience with weak rods to make the statement on their website.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/sgpracin...rapaforod.html

To get the 8.5:1 pistons and the Pauter rods for $1600 is darn good, since they have them listed separately for $2350. Should be a tank after that build though. Best of luck.

 

Mn Gurgen, now i am DEF> not going FI seeing the money involved lol, im 19 !?!??! A TT kit would be stretching it ina year, god dam...


Martin
2003.5 BS G35
Nismo Aero/Sport Package
0-60 5.4 - 1/4 Mile 14.16 *GTech* and on 19's!!

 

Karl

Yeah the GB was very successful.

One correction, I'm going with 9.3:1 , a relatively high, cr, so that I can achieve good numbers with lower boost levels.

Come to think of it, since I already paid for the rods/pistons/studs, I've got another ~2300 to spend to make this engine bulletproof. Wow, cannot wait to see what happens...

Gurgen

 

Martin...

Yeah I think you should enjoy the ~280 ponies that you have for now.... being 19 and getting into this mess is a serious deal... If I didn't have my savings (stocks that are performing so poorly of late) I would not be able to climb out of this, period.. You would be seeing me list the car for $15000 AS IS or smth. Sad to think about it.

Now, on the other hand, MANY, MANY (95%+ of people) do FI at pretty high levels without any problems. But doing FI without the funds to back up a catastrophic failure is tough... Some people just don't have the luck (me).

Can I make a suggestion? Nitrous!!!! (hitting self while typing this) It's a cheap way to make power with far smaller risks, provided your car is tuned right. To be extra safe, I wouldn't go over a 70 shot (wet) and some very good tuning.... You can get away with this for about a grand!

Gurgen

 

Hey Gurgen, sorry about your engine... if you need help, let me know. Blast(where my car is right now for last 4 months) can go straight to Darton for sleeves. their sleeves can hold 40 to 50 pounds of boost and 1700hp to the wheel. for the total, it will cost more than you estimated but if you let Blast do it but they know what they are doing. my car took a beating without sleeve and nothing happend to the engine. for my piston and bearing, they put anti friction coating, they are basically going all out with my car. hopefully 700 to 800hp the wheel. what are you going to do about yoru ecu? I don't think reprogramed stock ecu will work 100%. let me know if you want the same ecu as mine also.
good luck
Tom

03 G35 Coupe: Check my profile for the spec./05 Subaru Impreza WRX STI

 

Tom...

So you are not doing the sleeves... I'm beginning to think more and more that the sleeves are overkill.

Gurgen

 

Gurgen,

When will you begin building a new engine?

 

Starts in 3 weeks......!!!! Done in 6 (let's hope)

Thinking of doing the radiator too, and high flow electric fans, etc.

G

 

Damn, sorry to hear about the blown engine, I know how it feels. Hopefully I get a new engine from Infiniti under warranty, but we'll see. Sounds like your rebuild will be a lot of work, but well worth it.

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Tom...

So you are not doing the sleeves... I'm beginning to think more and more that the sleeves are overkill.

Gurgen


<hr></blockquote> Gurgen,

You're putting on some rather expensive pants. Don't you think it's a good idea to wear a belt AND suspenders? Are you prepared to spend all this money again on the removal/install, engine re-re-build, shipping charges, etc...? The peace of mind might be worth the extra cash by itself, expecially when you're boosting a VQ to insane numbers and getting rediculous rwtq #'s for the next ??? years. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img] Remember, you're always going to want to run a little higher boost than before. You'll always be looking for the limit, you just don't want to ever find it.

 

Yeah gurgen that's why I was asking I was like wtf. I don't know where I got that figure from but obviously somewhere. I maybe misread something. GL with your new edevaour.

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

gurgen don't tell me you're not doing the sleeves.to me that's one of the must do if you want to bulletproof the engine.unless you're planning on staying below 400hp.i saw a open engine myself.all can say is 'weak' the upper walls are very thin.think about it,you have the motor split open to do other work anyway.

another thing is $720 for aebs sleeves and $400 to install them.are you sure about that??? i don't see how i can make a sleeve for $120 consider the material cost,lathe,mill,other machine works,heat treat,grind ect...all the work that involve to make a highly pricision piece of part.and then $400 installation charge.that's roughly about 6 hours @ average $65 shoprate.that's an hour/sleeve.pretty damn fast to me.you better look more into this.

also,i don't see you mentioned bearings,head gasket...and then valves,shaft, tranmission,torque converter and all the labor that require to disassembe and reassemble the engine.

so,once we decide to play this game,we have to go all the way.and it's costly,because every little things add up.am i right or i'm just full of beans?

 

I didn't seen any estimate of the labor costs. An Infiniti mechanic estimated approximately 20 hours of shop time for installation of rods and pistons and another 6 hours or so if you do valves. Apparently valve adjustment is extremely tedious and time consuming to get it right and quiet.

What, if anything, are you going to do to beef up the transmission to handle the anticipated high torque levels?