Know what's interesting is the owner's manual specifically says to use conventional oil. Will using synthetic void the powertrain warranty?

This leads to believe that there is a certain brand of synthetic oil that doesn't work too well with the engine.

The RX-7 is an example of this. Mazda found that a certain brand of synthetic oil caused serious issues with the reliability of the engine, so instead of blacklisting that certain oil, they blacklisted synthetic in general.

 

Mazda might blacklist synthetic oil from Rotorary engines only? I did not have any inside info but my own experiences from last 10 years, I always changed oil myself using synthetic oil on my 12 yo Max every 5000 miles and regular oil on my wife's 3yo Odyssey every 3000miles, I can feel the differences on my finger tips, regular oil turns into so watery, it's hard to believe this can protect the engine, but synthetic usually maintains some thickness, I switched all regular oil to synthetic now. since I diy, I figured I can safely legthen the oil changes with synthetic, it doesn't make that much difference in term of costs (filters, oil) based on 15000 miles a year, which translates into (3 synthetic old changes, 3 filters and 15 q of oil,) or ( 5 regular oil changes, 5 filters and 25 q of oil).

btw, my 12 yo Max has been upgraded to 3 weeks old G35S.

Silver/Graphite/Premium/Sports/Winter and love it

 

If I remember correctly, Redline oils worked well with the rotary. I think Mazda had trouble with either Mobil or Amsoil.

I find it interesting that Nissan specified conventional oil only. There's gotta be some sort of explanation why. Maybe I'll check with the guy who sold the car to my cousin (who [the salesman] is really a VW freak).

Don't get me wrong...I use synthetic oil in my car, which has 10,000 mile oil changes. I'm also in the market for a bypass filter (oil guard).

The best way to dictate the oil change interval is through oil analysis testing<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by VNT on 01/21/03 12:08 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Look in your manual on page 10-2 ; across from 'Engine Oil' - 'Drain & Refill' in the 'Recommended Specs.' You'll see :
SG/SH, and SJ or SL. These specifications have all been approved by the manufacturer and are fine to use.
Just be sure that whatever oil (whether synthetic or 'regular' or a mix) has the API emblem with the approved grade. You can see the emblem and grade in the circle clearly on the pic.
I'm sure if you contacted Nissan for verification that they will tell you the same thing......Hope this helps, and 'happy oil changing'................

Gsedanman--in Silverstone Coupe clothing.

17403-API service Label 001.jpg

 

and 5w30

 

5W30 is good , but (year round) 5W50 is better.

Gsedanman--in Silverstone Coupe clothing.

 

Way back when I did some 'net research on synthetics, I read somewhere that for some reason, Castrol was not a very good synthetic compared to Red Ram, Royal Purple, Amsoil, and even Mobil 1. Can't remember why. Also due to the more stable nature of syns in general, using any higher weights than 5w-30 was not any better except in extreme heat or racing conditions, and might negatively affect your gas mileage. Sorry I can't remember the sources. Anyone else?
BTW, I was recently told that Quaker State was not a good regular oil to use. Anyone care to enlighten me? I've used QS in all of my previous vehicles and previously found it to be one of the best. I plan to switch to Mobil 1 either the next oil change or use up my last jug of QS 5w-30 first.

 

Like many, Gord, I've been faithful to a brand and even the weight for a long time. I like the added protection in the heat.
As far as the 'weight' affecting gas mileage adversely: I don't think so since 5W50 will have the same flow rate as 5W30 at the same temperature. At least up to way over 100-F. If it gets hotter than that then the '50' will hold it's viscosity to a higher temp. (added protection)
There seems to be so much 'talk' these days of what's good and what's not. There may be something in it but I doubt it ,provided you use branded product, with the proper API rating and multigrade.
Castrol was praised for years, and , according to one poster on here, has done well in extensive testing. Who knows. I'll say this- It's done well in my cars for a long time. No engine issues and usually my gas mileage is better than most. True I never go more than 5k klicks between changes but I could.
As far as your Quaker State is concerned I feel the same way about it. It's top notch. Heck, Cambridge city vehicles (all inclusive) are serviced with Q/S. That says a lot for that brand.
I've used synthetics with much success for over 15 yrs. I really believe in them and feel they yield a few ponies, extra protection, less breakdown of the oil itself, and I guess would contribute to vehicle longevity.
On a similar vane, what's with the '0' designation on 0W30 oils that some have talked about? I don't understand how a '0' grade can afford any protection. There's no viscocity to protect with. Any ideas?
Interesting subject. I go with what's worked for me tho.
.................................................. ......................................
Hope you accepted to be Moderator also. Your sensibility and incite are valued here. ( At your age, you must have a lot of 'incite' , say compared to a young gaffer like me.LOL)

Gsedanman--in Silverstone Coupe clothing.<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by gsedanman on 01/21/03 08:42 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

Castrol Syntec is petroleum derived "synthetic" oil. It's made by a process called hydrocracking: the oil is in a hydrogen-rich environment, that is pressurized, and a catalyst separates the impurities from the base petroleum oil. The result is a base stock that is clear in appearance. There are other conventional oils that are hydrocracked also, but don't advertise synthetic.

As the technology has development the characteristics of hydrocracked oil has gotten better, nearing (not meeting yet) the properties of PAO based stocks, for a cheaper price.

more technical mumble jumble

aWb:
a= viscometrics @ 0° C
b= viscometrics @ 100° C

At 0°C, 5w30 and 5w50 will share similar properties, as it the oil started from the same base stock (comparing Syntec to Syntec).

At 100°C, the 5w50 will have higher viscometrics than 5w30, and a thicker sacrifacial layer, but also results in slightly lower fuel economy as a result of increased power input to pump the oil.

Many also bring up that in order to get the 5w50 weighting, more plasticizers are added than 5w30. In the same volume of oil, 5w50 will have less basestock in it. I don't know if this is really true to be detrimental, since I use 5w40 oil.

0w30, gives you better protection at start-up, where most of the engine wear occurs. The easier, and faster the oil gets to the engine components, the less wear will occur.

 

Thanks for the quick 'tour' on oils. You sound like you've done some homework on the subject. It may be that there are better oils out there than Syntec ( and I didn't know it wasn't a true synthetic) but I think it's fair to assume it's good enough- I hope so; I've got 3 more cases to use up! LOL.
In your opinion are there many diffs. at 'normal' temps BTW the 50 & 30 wt oils and am I doing damage using it? I can hardly believe so. ( As I've said b4, I've used it for some time)
I understand that at colder temps you get the most wear at start-up and that 'thinner' oils help this issue, but I still can't get my head around the claim that ' 0W30' is going to protect
and 'stick' at all (at cold temps) - there's no viscosity! Any input on that?
Keep the thread going- It's interesting and Important to all I'm sure.
How do you like the G? Tell me about yours.

Gsedanman--in Silverstone Coupe clothing.

 

I've heard from people that using a 0w30/40 is bad as it will kill the crankshaft bearings. That's all I heard...from a past meet...from a toasted engine (MB engine)

I used Syntec 5w50 in my old car.

VW (and Audi) uses Castrol has their supplier of oil. The VW dealership oil is Syntec 5w40 (and 5w30 GTX for cheap oil changes)

 

No we need someone like Learn2Turn to tell us why Nissan advises you guys to use conventional oil only.

 

I've also heard that anything larger than a 30wt difference between a and b in aWb is bad, as there are too many additives and they break down quicker. If that's true, then 5W40 is bad. I'll stick with the manual's recommendation - 5W30. I haven't reached the first oil change yet, and haven't decided whether to go synthetic or regular.

The idea behind 0W is that, after any engine sits for awhile, all the oil has drained down to the pan, and there's not much protecting the metal parts of the engine. A 0W can flow into all the nooks and crannies quicker than a 5W.

And to make things more fun, Ford has decided that 5W20 is the oil of choice on newer cars. I haven't heard any good thoughts on that one, yet. Plenty of bad, though.

2003.5 G35 Sedan Desert Platinum/Graphite Premium/Sport/Aero/Nav/Winter

 

On use of synthetics:I went thru the manual last evening and couldn't see that reference. Perhaps it's what an individual thinks himself more than a directive or requirement from Nissan. Would be worth following up on tho.
Sure would be nice to know diffinitively thru independent, extensive, unbiased testing of all oils just how good these products are. All I've heard so far is bits here and there, biased reports from companies saying how good their's is, rumours, and generally unsubstantiated info. Would be nice for them all to be listed with test results and designated as: unsatisfactory , good, better , best,. Then we can make a sensible investment in a decent product.
Mine gets changed about every 3-4k in winter months. and not more than 5k (kilometers) in summer. Here each liter of oil costs about $6 x 5 , + $7 for Nissan filter including tax is a tidy sum 5 or 6 times a year. I'd like to think It's doing some good. We' ll have to do some more research, along with contacting Nissan on the synthetic question and see what comes up. Companies like that you can bet have done extensive testing on oils for their products. I wonder how we can get them to share it?

Gsedanman--in Silverstone Coupe clothing.