First Automatic Transmission Fluid Change at 90k
#31
#33
ugg, I hate it when manufactures do that, and don't let anyone fool you and say the fluid doesn't need to be changed, fluid breaks down. There still is a change interval.
#34
Nissan/Infiniti's official stance on transmission flush vs. drain is DO NOT FLUSH, which came out as a bulletin in 2007 (Reference NPSB/07-027; #9376 page 3). A drain is preferred, but there are also some recommendations that dropping the pan and thoroughly cleaning it and the screen are the best way to do it. Some folks drain and fill every oil change for 3 oil changes (at the designated time), this ensures that at least 90% of your fluid will be "new" within by the 3rd regular oil change (I change mine every 7.5K using Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra).
According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced. Not on lose metal parts floating in the system following a flush/drain.
Just my .02![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced. Not on lose metal parts floating in the system following a flush/drain.
Just my .02
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So.... Do i have to fully flush atf oil for new or only replace half of oil to begin??
#35
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#36
Nissan/Infiniti's official stance on transmission flush vs. drain is DO NOT FLUSH, which came out as a bulletin in 2007 (Reference NPSB/07-027; #9376 page 3). A drain is preferred, but there are also some recommendations that dropping the pan and thoroughly cleaning it and the screen are the best way to do it. Some folks drain and fill every oil change for 3 oil changes (at the designated time), this ensures that at least 90% of your fluid will be "new" within by the 3rd regular oil change (I change mine every 7.5K using Castrol Edge or Pennzoil Platinum Ultra).
According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced. Not on lose metal parts floating in the system following a flush/drain.
Just my .02![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
According to the Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association, 90% of ALL transmission failures are caused by overheating. And most of these can be blamed on worn out fluid that should have been replaced. Not on lose metal parts floating in the system following a flush/drain.
Just my .02
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#38
For those that haven't already read the SERVICE BULLETIN [NPSB/07-027; #9376], id suggest doing so.
The Service Bulletin advices NOT to use AFTERMARKET FLUSHES on Nissan/Infiniti vehicles
but when they refer to AFTERMARKET FLUSHES they are talking about cleaning products
"Some aftermarket flush processes may leave residual solvent in the vehicle system which can reduce the effectiveness of the fresh lubricants and lead to possible damage"
So one does not need to fear having their transmission "flushed" with a fluid exchanging machine [which pretty much every trans flush machine is] that does not use cleaning agents. A fluid exchanging machine "flushes" the system by sucking out a predetermined amount of fluid from the transmission, then replaces that amount with fresh fluid, and does this same process over and over. Essentially there is never a complete drain and fill, so the fluid is never 100% new but its pretty close. Furthermore, this is basically the same thing that others are doing by draining the transmission pan, refilling, then redoing the process at the next 2-3 oil changes....its just faster
And for validity, I have done many transmission "flushes" on Nissans, Infinitis, Toyotas, etc. without one issue that had to do with the flush itself
The Service Bulletin advices NOT to use AFTERMARKET FLUSHES on Nissan/Infiniti vehicles
but when they refer to AFTERMARKET FLUSHES they are talking about cleaning products
"Some aftermarket flush processes may leave residual solvent in the vehicle system which can reduce the effectiveness of the fresh lubricants and lead to possible damage"
So one does not need to fear having their transmission "flushed" with a fluid exchanging machine [which pretty much every trans flush machine is] that does not use cleaning agents. A fluid exchanging machine "flushes" the system by sucking out a predetermined amount of fluid from the transmission, then replaces that amount with fresh fluid, and does this same process over and over. Essentially there is never a complete drain and fill, so the fluid is never 100% new but its pretty close. Furthermore, this is basically the same thing that others are doing by draining the transmission pan, refilling, then redoing the process at the next 2-3 oil changes....its just faster
And for validity, I have done many transmission "flushes" on Nissans, Infinitis, Toyotas, etc. without one issue that had to do with the flush itself
#39
#42
You might get more/better responses if you post a new topic and say which car you have. But you can find the factory service manuals over on the NICO club site. Look for the sticky at the top of the "G35 and G37 Engine, Drivetrain & Tuning" forum.
#43
Agreed with Mudgen.
Look at and read the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year and model before attempting. Changed my AT fluid for the first time in a 2003 G35 sedan with 154k miles. No transmission issues prior to or after change. Did it for a project mainly and did it per FSM, mostly.
Where I deviated from 2003 sedan FSM: While completing the second part per the FSM, I drained 2 qts at a time from ATF out line coming from radiator. Then filling 2 qts. Repeated this procedure, 2 qts at a time, until fluid the fluid that was coming out was bright red. (FSM calls to do this procedure of filling and emptying simultaneously and I was short handed). Used about 12 quarts of new matic-s fluid total (slightly less than recommended in FSM). On the last round of 2 quarts out and in...I stopped at 1 1/2 quarts to save half a bottle of fluid to fine tune the final fill.
Used 3/4 clear tubing from home depot to attach to ATF radiator out line, 3.5 bucks. Also used a catch pan from walmart with quart measurements on it, 3.5 bucks. Original fluid was dark, but did not appear burnt or to have any strong or distinct smell.
Got Matic-S, since it supersedes Matic-J, from local nissan dealer: 10.99 QT...pricey, but cheaper than ordering online with shipping. The parts guy didn't understand why I was using so much, and indicated that they typical only do drain and fills~6qts--as NOT per this FSM.
Resources:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use...-database.html
and:
http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/show...ice-5078.html?
Look at and read the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year and model before attempting. Changed my AT fluid for the first time in a 2003 G35 sedan with 154k miles. No transmission issues prior to or after change. Did it for a project mainly and did it per FSM, mostly.
Where I deviated from 2003 sedan FSM: While completing the second part per the FSM, I drained 2 qts at a time from ATF out line coming from radiator. Then filling 2 qts. Repeated this procedure, 2 qts at a time, until fluid the fluid that was coming out was bright red. (FSM calls to do this procedure of filling and emptying simultaneously and I was short handed). Used about 12 quarts of new matic-s fluid total (slightly less than recommended in FSM). On the last round of 2 quarts out and in...I stopped at 1 1/2 quarts to save half a bottle of fluid to fine tune the final fill.
Used 3/4 clear tubing from home depot to attach to ATF radiator out line, 3.5 bucks. Also used a catch pan from walmart with quart measurements on it, 3.5 bucks. Original fluid was dark, but did not appear burnt or to have any strong or distinct smell.
Got Matic-S, since it supersedes Matic-J, from local nissan dealer: 10.99 QT...pricey, but cheaper than ordering online with shipping. The parts guy didn't understand why I was using so much, and indicated that they typical only do drain and fills~6qts--as NOT per this FSM.
Resources:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use...-database.html
and:
http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/show...ice-5078.html?
#44
Nicely done Daved! question though, when your under car, which side of the car is the "cooler return, or outlet" line from radiator? Pass, side, or driver side?? I plan on servicing my cars tranny very soon, I was gonna do what I always do, run motor, and let the car pump out the fluid itself, while I simultaneously add matic s through fill pipe, ( obviously with a couple of stop, restarts to catch up. So, imo, when you have beautiful matic s running out return ( to tranny line) your done. I am just not sure with side of car is the >return< line.... regards....
#45
Nicely done Daved! question though, when your under car, which side of the car is the "cooler return, or outlet" line from radiator? Pass, side, or driver side?? I plan on servicing my cars tranny very soon, I was gonna do what I always do, run motor, and let the car pump out the fluid itself, while I simultaneously add matic s through fill pipe, ( obviously with a couple of stop, restarts to catch up. So, imo, when you have beautiful matic s running out return ( to tranny line) your done. I am just not sure with side of car is the >return< line.... regards....