So I was replacing my bumper over the last week and a bit, and also modified my headlights + replaced some screws and nuts with Stainless steel parts(Windshield wiper, front shock beams).

First time I take it for a drive, I start ripping it and then after I slow down and re accelerate for the 4th time on the drive, the tach starts bouncing off 2200 RPM, with a lower frequency than hitting the redline rev limiter. At first I thought it was going to stall. I switched it to D and let off the gas, and continued to drive to my friends house (One turn away)

I pick up my friend, tell him what happened, and sure enough same thing happens 3rd time I accelerate with him in the car.

Here is the interesting bit. I went back to his house, and tried disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU.

That seemed to fix everything, last 2 times I drove it, I drove it harder, getting close to redline at every shift, and further. Hasnt been a problem since.

Does anyone know what was going on, or if I should still be concerned?

 

limp mode. The CEL light should be on. Read the CEL code(s) before disconnecting the battery to reset it. Then look up the codes in the FSM to troubleshoot the underlying problem.

 

Yeah that does sound like the issue- turning the car off and on again would get it out of limp mode too.

I'm curious to see what codes you pull- if it happens again? Muck with the MAF at all in you under the hood travels?

 

The weird thing is, the limp mode came back after restarting the car. Weirder still, I looked and both times it happened, there was no cel.

after I disconnected and reconnected the battery, no issues. Has been driven 3 times since, all for longer distances, and no troubles

 

Closest I came to the maf was tightening a bolt that holds a metal pipe (radiator?) in place

 

When I was working, I disconnected both the negative and positive terminals of the battery, Not sure if that matters. I was trying to avoid setting off the airbags accidentally when I was hitting something with a hammer lol

 

Drove for about 20 minutes today, shifting around 5K rpm in suburb driving. It started happening again a turn away from my destination, no CEL. I reved it in park and it wouldnt go over 2200

 

Sounds like the start of a failing throttle body...but that should trigger a cel.

 

Im about to clean the filter (K&N filter cleaning kit and MAF (CRC MAF sensor cleaner)

Yesterday, it happened again. I felt a clunk (similar to that when I change from P to R while parked on an incline) while sitting at a light, and then when I took off it was in limp mode again.

 

Thought I would post a follow up

It hasnt happened since the day before the last post, so I will say the problem is fixed (knock on wood).

Maintenance I have done in the past 2 weeks:

Cleaned intake filter
Cleaned MAF Sensor
Replaced belts
Replaced spark plugs

Now it is running perfect

 

Alright so everything is NOT perfect.

It is still happening.

I have found it happens if I accelerate quickly to high speeds.

Any ideas? Anything?

I have a new filter coming for the car on the way.

Is this something that I should go to the dealer for? I dont want to have them just replace random parts, when all thats needed is a grounding wire for example.

 

Go to a parts place or a dealer and see if it's throwing any codes regardless if it doesn't show a CEL. I'm just taking a guess but I'd assume with all the time/money you've spent trying to rectify a problem that you can't identify was/is more costly than paying a qualified tech/mechanic to diagnose it professionally.

 

Ive had it checked for a code, and it didnt come up with anything. Would the code go away after I reset the car?

Eg. If I hit limp mode and it *does* throw a code but not a CEL, if I restrart the car will it erase the code? Because the car is fine indefinitely after restarting, until I push it too hard again.

I havent actually spent that much money, though I have spent some time debugging it. Money Ive spent on this specifically was a new filter (to make filter cleaning easier), and a can of MAF cleaner.

Example I gave above was based on experience as well, which is why Im hesitant to go to a dealer. Last time I did, they replaced the throttle body when the ONLY thing that was wrong was a loose grounding bolt on the engine

 

Taking it to get diagnosed doesn't mean you have to get it fixed there if its something that you're competent/capable of doing yourself. No sense in trying to rectify a problem that you can't identify.

 

That is true, I will probably take it to a different dealer because I dont think I trust their opinion anymore.

I am getting paint soon, Ill see if I can see anything weird when the bumper is off, and otherwise I will pay a visit to a dealer