Need Help!!! New Plenum And An Overheating Car!
#1
02-03-2005, 09:51 PM
Need Help!!! New Plenum And An Overheating Car!
Today I just switched my stock plenum out for a Kinetix V4. The install went relatively smooth and in a couple hours everything was on. I took the car out for a drive (it sounded great) and then I came to a stop light. Smoke started rising up from the hood yet my temp gauges were reading normal. I pulled over and popped the hood and noticed that one of the coolant hoses below the Throttle Acuator had slid off and sprayed coolant all over the the entire engine bay. So I went home, took of the plenum, securely reconnected the coolant hose, put the plenum back on, and I was good to go. Suprisingly the coolant hadn't dropped much, only about a quarter, and was still close to max. I turned the car on again and after a while the the fan started going full speed. Checked the hoses and coolant, and everything was fine. Then I watched the temo gauge starting going up until I eventually cut the engine off. What the hell is going on here??? Can anyone help me out???
#2
02-03-2005, 10:45 PM
Does the engine temp rise and fall?? Only thing I can think of is thermostat or waterpump, but I havent heard of any G's having issues with either of these parts. I would put on the stock plenum and take it in for service. It might be possible that you checked your coolant when the car was cold?? Start the car and try to leave it on to warm up and check the coolant level NOT from the radiator cap (but if you see the temp continue to go up to dang. levels shut off the car) but from the overflow tank. But again I would try to take it in for service, assuming you can make it to the dealer w/o overheating!! Im curious as to how/why the coolant hose just slid off, those darn things are placed on so tightly!!
#3
02-03-2005, 11:00 PM
Kinetix has a piece that attaches on to their plenum's called a "cooling block" which is essentially an adapter piece for the stock coolant hoses. Therefore you have to disconnect the stock hoses from the throttle body and eventually reconnet it to the cooling block. I believe I simply didn't slide the hose clamp up far enough and when I accelerated the car hard, the hose slid off. I did check the coolant level in the tank when the car was hot and it appears that is gone down even further. I'm going to go out and got some fluid, fill up the tank again, and give it a shot. Chances are this is the problem but if not, I'll through the stock plenum back on and take the G to the dealer. Thanks for the advice and if anyone else has anything they can contribute, I'd appreciate it.
#4
02-04-2005, 11:12 AM
#6
02-04-2005, 07:09 PM
Thanks for all the help guys. I worked on things for a while today and indeed it was a problem with the cooling system. I was able to get everything fixed without having to take it to the dealer (so as far as their concerned, the warranty is still good 
) and the engine is running at normal temp now.
) and the engine is running at normal temp now.
#7
02-04-2005, 10:53 PM
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#9
02-05-2005, 07:58 PM
Open up the bleeder valve which I believe is near the battery, fill up from the radiator cap (while engine is cold) until you see coolant come through the bleeder valve. Close cap, run engine let it warm up. Check fluid level again from overflow tank, and repeat as necessary until it is full.
Birdman, what did it turn out to be?? What did you do to fix the issue??
Birdman, what did it turn out to be?? What did you do to fix the issue??
#11
02-07-2005, 05:56 AM
Birdman-
You need to 'bleed' the air caused by the leak back out of the engine. Your coolant level in the overflow reservoir is false, and you may have lost much more coolant than you originally thought.
Make sure first that the two 1/2" coolant connections aft of the throttle valve are tight and clamped properly, then either bleed the air from the system and refill, or have the dealer do it.
Once air gets into the cooling system, it can get stuck in odd places including the heater core and cylinder heads, causing an overheating situation. You don't want that.
C.
You need to 'bleed' the air caused by the leak back out of the engine. Your coolant level in the overflow reservoir is false, and you may have lost much more coolant than you originally thought.
Make sure first that the two 1/2" coolant connections aft of the throttle valve are tight and clamped properly, then either bleed the air from the system and refill, or have the dealer do it.
Once air gets into the cooling system, it can get stuck in odd places including the heater core and cylinder heads, causing an overheating situation. You don't want that.
C.
#12
03-20-2005, 04:24 PM
It wasn't obvious to me where the bleed valve is.......can someone post a pic pointing to it please? I had the same problem as birdman, except i forgot to hook up the hose when i did the spacer install!
I had the water temp going up and down....... i know at first there wasnt enough fluid and then there was air in the system that prevents good circulation.....i have filled (1 gallon), driven, cooled, then filled (1/2 gallon) driven and cooled, then filled (2 cups) driven and cooled 3 times now each time it takes a little less..........the water temp is stable now but would like to make sure all air is out of the system.....and by the way the coolant reservoir stayed at the same level the entire time i went through this filling process.........and i now have a gurgling sound in the dash above my feet (most likely air in the heater core)
How would you clean the engine bay of all the coolant? I wiped all that I could see from the top (firewall, hoses, fitting, etc) but I know there is plenty down low and places i can't see.......I can still smell the sweet coolant smell.........i bought a can of engine degreaser.......it says to spray on, leave it and then hose off the engine being careful not to spray water on electrical sensors etc. isn't that impossible?
#13
03-20-2005, 07:10 PM
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Posts: n/a
The below is taken from the 2004.5 G35 Coupe Electronic Service Manual. It makes no mention of this "Bleeder Valve" by the battery compartment. Don't know if this will help you or not. If you would like the entire cooling system portion of the ESM (32 Pages) in .PDF format drop me a PM with your email address and I will send it as a 1.20MB attachment. Hope this helps and good luck...
COOLANT
ENGINE COOLANT PFP:KQ100
Inspection ABS00A1U
LEVEL CHECK
Check if the reservoir tank engine coolant level is within the
“MIN” to “MAX” range when the engine is cool.
Adjust the engine coolant level as necessary.
LEAK CHECK
To check for leaks, apply pressure to the cooling system with
radiator cap tester (commercial service tool) and radiator cap
tester adapter (SST).
WARNING:
Do not remove radiator cap when engine is hot. Serious
burns could occur from high-pressure engine coolant
escaping from radiator.
CAUTION:
Higher test pressure than specified may cause radiator
damage.
NOTE:
In a case that engine coolant decreases, replenish radiator with engine coolant.
If anything is found, repair or replace damaged parts.
Changing Engine Coolant ABS00A1V
WARNING:
To avoid being scalded, do not change engine coolant when engine is hot.
Wrap a thick cloth around radiator cap and carefully remove radiator cap. First, turn cap a quarter
of a turn to release built-up pressure. Then turn radiator cap all the way.
Be careful not to allow engine coolant to contact drive belts.
DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT
1. Remove undercover with power tool.
2. Open radiator drain plug at the bottom of radiator, and then
remove radiator cap.
When drain all of engine coolant in the system, open drain plugs on engine cylinder block. Refer
to EM-109, "DISASSEMBLY" .
3. Remove reservoir tank, drain engine coolant and clean tank before installing.
4. Check drained engine coolant for contaminants such as rust, corrosion or discoloration.
If contaminated, flush the engine cooling system. Refer to CO-12, "FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM" .
REFILLING ENGINE COOLANT
1. Install reservoir tank, and radiator drain plug.
CAUTION:
Be sure to clean drain plug and install with new O-ring.
If cylinder block drain plugs are removed, close and tighten them. Refer to EM-114, "ASSEMBLY" .
2. Remove air relief plug on heater hose.
3. Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.
Pour engine coolant through engine coolant filler neck
slowly of less than 2 (2-1/8 US qt, 1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute
to allow air in system to escape.
Use Genuine Nissan Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant or
equivalent mixed with water (distilled or demineralized).
Refer to GI-47, "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS
AND SEALANTS" .
When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose,
install air relief plug with new O-ring.
4. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator cap installed.
5. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle speed.
Repeat two or three times.
CAUTION:
Watch water temperature gauge so as not to overheat engine.
6. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).
Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.
If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.
7. Refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level line with engine coolant.
Radiator drain plug:
: 1.2 N·m (0.12 kg-m, 11 in-lb)
PBIC0894E
Engine coolant capacity (Approximate)
(with reservoir tank at “MAX” level)
: 8.7 (9-1/4 US qt, 7-5/8 lmp qt)
SMA182B
Reservoir tank capacity (at “MAX” level)
: 0.8 (7/8 US qt, 3/4 lmp qt)
Air relief plug:
: 1.2 N·m (0.12 kg-m, 11 in-lb)
SMA412B
CO-12
ENGINE COOLANT
8. Repeat steps 3 through 6 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer
drops.
9. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.
10. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000
rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between “COOL” and “WARM”.
Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
11. Repeat step 10 three times.
12. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 3 through 6 until engine coolant level no longer drops.
Clean excess engine coolant from engine.
FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Fill radiator with water until water spills from the air relief hole, then close air relief plug. Fill radiator and
reservoir tank with water and reinstall radiator cap.
2. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load.
4. Stop engine and wait until it cools down.
5. Drain water from the system. Refer to CO-10, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until clear water begins to drain from radiator.
COOLANT
ENGINE COOLANT PFP:KQ100
Inspection ABS00A1U
LEVEL CHECK
Check if the reservoir tank engine coolant level is within the
“MIN” to “MAX” range when the engine is cool.
Adjust the engine coolant level as necessary.
LEAK CHECK
To check for leaks, apply pressure to the cooling system with
radiator cap tester (commercial service tool) and radiator cap
tester adapter (SST).
WARNING:
Do not remove radiator cap when engine is hot. Serious
burns could occur from high-pressure engine coolant
escaping from radiator.
CAUTION:
Higher test pressure than specified may cause radiator
damage.
NOTE:
In a case that engine coolant decreases, replenish radiator with engine coolant.
If anything is found, repair or replace damaged parts.
Changing Engine Coolant ABS00A1V
WARNING:
To avoid being scalded, do not change engine coolant when engine is hot.
Wrap a thick cloth around radiator cap and carefully remove radiator cap. First, turn cap a quarter
of a turn to release built-up pressure. Then turn radiator cap all the way.
Be careful not to allow engine coolant to contact drive belts.
DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT
1. Remove undercover with power tool.
2. Open radiator drain plug at the bottom of radiator, and then
remove radiator cap.
When drain all of engine coolant in the system, open drain plugs on engine cylinder block. Refer
to EM-109, "DISASSEMBLY" .
3. Remove reservoir tank, drain engine coolant and clean tank before installing.
4. Check drained engine coolant for contaminants such as rust, corrosion or discoloration.
If contaminated, flush the engine cooling system. Refer to CO-12, "FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM" .
REFILLING ENGINE COOLANT
1. Install reservoir tank, and radiator drain plug.
CAUTION:
Be sure to clean drain plug and install with new O-ring.
If cylinder block drain plugs are removed, close and tighten them. Refer to EM-114, "ASSEMBLY" .
2. Remove air relief plug on heater hose.
3. Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.
Pour engine coolant through engine coolant filler neck
slowly of less than 2 (2-1/8 US qt, 1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute
to allow air in system to escape.
Use Genuine Nissan Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant or
equivalent mixed with water (distilled or demineralized).
Refer to GI-47, "RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL PRODUCTS
AND SEALANTS" .
When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose,
install air relief plug with new O-ring.
4. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator cap installed.
5. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle speed.
Repeat two or three times.
CAUTION:
Watch water temperature gauge so as not to overheat engine.
6. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).
Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.
If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.
7. Refill reservoir tank to “MAX” level line with engine coolant.
Radiator drain plug:
: 1.2 N·m (0.12 kg-m, 11 in-lb)
PBIC0894E
Engine coolant capacity (Approximate)
(with reservoir tank at “MAX” level)
: 8.7 (9-1/4 US qt, 7-5/8 lmp qt)
SMA182B
Reservoir tank capacity (at “MAX” level)
: 0.8 (7/8 US qt, 3/4 lmp qt)
Air relief plug:
: 1.2 N·m (0.12 kg-m, 11 in-lb)
SMA412B
CO-12
ENGINE COOLANT
8. Repeat steps 3 through 6 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer
drops.
9. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.
10. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000
rpm with heater temperature controller set at several position between “COOL” and “WARM”.
Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.
11. Repeat step 10 three times.
12. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 3 through 6 until engine coolant level no longer drops.
Clean excess engine coolant from engine.
FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM
1. Fill radiator with water until water spills from the air relief hole, then close air relief plug. Fill radiator and
reservoir tank with water and reinstall radiator cap.
2. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load.
4. Stop engine and wait until it cools down.
5. Drain water from the system. Refer to CO-10, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until clear water begins to drain from radiator.
#14
03-20-2005, 08:29 PM
Bazz.......thanks so much for the post! I followed the heater hose and sure enough the AIR RELIEF PLUG is near the battery.....it is on the passenger side, near the battery, near the firewall behind a wire loom located on the heater hose right before it goes thru the firewall.......i did not see it the first time i looked back there......i removed the radiator cap, then the plug and sure enough the water level dropped a little bit.....i refilled at the radiator neck, but it got full before it came out the relief hole.......i put everuthing back together and the gurgle noise is still there......i will have to repeat this step over and over until all the air is out.....im letting the car cool and might get 1 more in tonight start again tomorrow night......
maybe i need to get a small tube/funnel and fill from the air relief hole? anyone have a comment? how do they get the air out at the dealer? this doesnt seem to be a one shot deal.....is the try and try again method the only way?
maybe i need to get a small tube/funnel and fill from the air relief hole? anyone have a comment? how do they get the air out at the dealer? this doesnt seem to be a one shot deal.....is the try and try again method the only way?