Skilled Tuner Question?
#16
Was there some kind of coating on the headers that might be causing electrical resistance? Make sure the threaded bung for the AF sensor doesn't have any ceramic coating or anything on it, apply kopper-kote anti-seize when you install the AF sensor because that stuff is electrically conductive, also try adding a supplementary ground onto the header-cat bolts just to rule out an electrical issue.
No ceramic based coating. Raw 304 stainless. I even replaced the sensors and I did/do use anti-seize.
I even added bonding straps I snagged from work. Made no difference.
Using UpRev or NDS, the oem's are right in line with my aftermarket wide-bands.
Ill be using HR gaskets for the header to head when I install the PPE's as they use a four stud/hole flange.
Its just the strangest thing. Clear learned fuel settings. Bang - 14.7 @ idle & cruise.
Then after adding some mileage, slowly 14.7 - 14.5, 14.5 - 14.2 then 14.2 -13.8 ping pong until p2a00 and shortly after p2a03. Like clockwork.
Ive tried putting the narrow bands in the exhaust flow, out the exhaust flow and even disabled them completely. No fix.
Changed my HFC's to TP's, again no fix.
If its still there after all the things I'm swapping out, I'm going to just make so the codes don't trigger the light anymore.
#17
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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When you said you had multiple people looking for leaks, did anyone smoke test the exhaust?
I would clean the MAF again, even if it was done recently just to rule it out. It's possible you have multiple systems that are just barely causing the issue, do you have a fuel pressure gauge or sandwich adapter you can measure pressure with?
Since you're also showing signs of idle problems now I would remove the intake plenums all the way to the bottom and inspect/clean/torque everything on the way back up just to rule it out as well.
Fortunately intake leaks are easier to spot on boosted vehicles, just run the rpm's up a tad to build boost before the engine is hot and use water+dishwasher detergent and spray around all the gaskets and look for bubbles, exactly like you do for troubleshooting air conditioner leaks.
I would clean the MAF again, even if it was done recently just to rule it out. It's possible you have multiple systems that are just barely causing the issue, do you have a fuel pressure gauge or sandwich adapter you can measure pressure with?
Since you're also showing signs of idle problems now I would remove the intake plenums all the way to the bottom and inspect/clean/torque everything on the way back up just to rule it out as well.
Fortunately intake leaks are easier to spot on boosted vehicles, just run the rpm's up a tad to build boost before the engine is hot and use water+dishwasher detergent and spray around all the gaskets and look for bubbles, exactly like you do for troubleshooting air conditioner leaks.
#18
Yes, the dealership did and later on I made my own DIY with a party smoke machine and a cut in half Nerf football.
I will definitely clean the MAF when I install all the other goodies.
I do have a direct reading gauge under the hood. Solid 56 psi.
On the vac/boost gauge I do not notice any flux in vac or any boost loss and RPM's are steady at idle. I also busted out the torque wrench and check all the fasteners on the plenums top hat.
I've tried the carb cleaner trick as well as Dawn in a spray bottle. I'm truly at a loss.
I'm tempted to look into the EVAP system as there are times its hard to fill and start after filling.
Another possibility, from my research, in regards to richening AFR's, would be excessive oil consumption, although I do not notice any. Especially in regards to the OC standards.
We will know more in the upcoming weeks if all the parts being installed, fixes the issue.
I will definitely clean the MAF when I install all the other goodies.
I do have a direct reading gauge under the hood. Solid 56 psi.
On the vac/boost gauge I do not notice any flux in vac or any boost loss and RPM's are steady at idle. I also busted out the torque wrench and check all the fasteners on the plenums top hat.
I've tried the carb cleaner trick as well as Dawn in a spray bottle. I'm truly at a loss.
I'm tempted to look into the EVAP system as there are times its hard to fill and start after filling.
Another possibility, from my research, in regards to richening AFR's, would be excessive oil consumption, although I do not notice any. Especially in regards to the OC standards.
We will know more in the upcoming weeks if all the parts being installed, fixes the issue.
#19
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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When you say hard to start after filling you mean it has to crank for longer before it finally catches yes?
I'm not sure what modifications were made to the evap system for the kit you're using but the stock system uses intake vacuum to draw vapor from the evap canister into the intake manifold and since your system now effective operates IN REVERSE it could definitely have an evap problem. Possibly coupled with the evap tube recall problem.
I'm not sure what modifications were made to the evap system for the kit you're using but the stock system uses intake vacuum to draw vapor from the evap canister into the intake manifold and since your system now effective operates IN REVERSE it could definitely have an evap problem. Possibly coupled with the evap tube recall problem.
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