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06 g35 coupe 6mt P0355 P1614 P1615

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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 02:59 PM
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06 g35 coupe 6mt P0355 P1614 P1615

Everything was perfect, then the engine rpms started jerking when engaging the clutch. So I coasted to a gas station a couple hundred feet away. I filled up with premium 93 drove around the gas station into the next parking lot started acting up again. I parked in a spot at this restaurant I checked the battery 12.5volts while off, started it up 14.3volts running.
I reved it up it does that but if it runs for a few mins the check engine light comes(code p0355) on it starts to idle up and down. Then the vdc light and slip light will come on then the car will die then I get either p1614 or or both p1614 and p1615.
If I clear the codes the car starts up just fine after few mins everything happens all over again. I am going to start with an OEM Crank shaft position sensor on the bottom of the motor, for the p0355. About the p1614 and p1615 I researched it seems it could be the NATS, ECU, or the Key itself, I only have one key so I can't try another I do have the Valet key so I can try that. I'm was thinking it could be a dead battery or the alternator as well but the car starts up everytime. Anyone ever have both these sets of codes at the same time? What had to be done to fix it?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 03:25 PM
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I don't believe there is a code P0355 for this vehicle, do you mean P0335 ?? If so inspect the crank sensor it might just be damaged wiring, replace if everything looks good since it's a common point of failure. I wouldn't be surprised if it remedies all 3 codes since the P1614 is related to the immobilizer and the vehicle is apparently starting and running somewhat.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
I don't believe there is a code P0355 for this vehicle, do you mean P0335 ?? If so inspect the crank sensor it might just be damaged wiring, replace if everything looks good since it's a common point of failure. I wouldn't be surprised if it remedies all 3 codes since the P1614 is related to the immobilizer and the vehicle is apparently starting and running somewhat.
<br /><br />Yea that code for the crank thanks for the response, I tried the valet key and was able to get it home. I tried the old key it stalled so I cleared the code tried the valet key it stalled again. Then I jacked it up pulled the sensor and it looks warped and charred at the end and on one side it looks it grazed something? Is this sign of me needing a new clutch soon it drove fine on the way home? going for the new sensor now.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 05:25 PM
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Got a new crank sensor for $44 it fixed all the issue it seems rode it around and got on the interstate all is well thanks for your help!!
 
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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 08:23 PM
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Glad you're up and running again. Do you have the plastic undercarriage guard in place? It's purpose is to keep road debris from damaging sensitive components like the crank sensor and you say yours has physical damage like something hit it?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 12:50 AM
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Me too, No mine didn't come with the underbelly shield bought used last year. The grazing/warping looked like it was on the inside of the transmission on the tip of the CPS on the inside of the trans. It starts up immediately now no issues anymore. Seems like there was extreme hit inside now I'm thinking a new clutch. I have to let off the pedal about 3/4 before it grabs I know these cars have a high engagement point but mine used to grab earlier I think and it grabs at the highest tension point when pressing and releasing the clutch and it used to be a little before that?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 07:44 AM
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Actually the crank sensor probably overheated and bulged and then the flywheel took a bite out of it. They ride really close to one another.

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