Hello all,

First, as you can see I am new to this forum. I am seriously interested in a G35, which I will maybe get next week. But, first...
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/608834 , this guy is selling his G35; it looks like all he has done is just SC+Exhaust. I have heard that the clutch and transmission are weak on the 6MT G35s. So, I am worried that if I get this that it will be in the shop for a new flywheel, clutch, or even worse...Also he claims 420hp, but from some more reading I would estimate it to be at max 350whp. What should I look into before getting a used G35 6MT. My other option is a fully loaded 2003 G35 AT w/Nav for $25K 18,000 miles. http://www.carsoup.com/used/detail.a...ehicleTypeID=1

What do you guys think?

Thank you for all your help in advance.

The –Nub

 

Make him do a compression test on it before you buy it....

I have a Procharged G with low compression in cylinder 6 but you would NEVER know it just by driving it. 1-5 tested at 190psi cylinder 6 tests at 115psi. My highest dyno was 380rwhp. I have the JWT clutch and flywheel and no issues yet. I can't really say there is anything to look for, I haven't had any issues with mine. Tire tread will most likely be an issue cuz stock coupe tires are good for 25K miles at best.

 

For sure, thanks.

 

Oh, I forgot to mention....

A compression check on a G isn't exactly an easy thing to do. Most cars its simple and doesn't take much time. But, on the G you have to remove the intake manifold (the plenum and the lower intake manifold). Then, you have to remove the coils because they are mounted right on top of the plugs. And don't forget to remove the fuel pump fuse, its right behind the battery.

 

I just hope he lets me do all that, but I may pass on it anyway. I didn't even think about the SC, I guess it is a bigger project now than I thought it was gonna be. :-). Thanks again...

 

Yeah I would recomend taking it to an independant shop to do the compression check. Another way around that is to ask to see his crank case vent tube. The Procharger requires you to vent the crank case to atmosphere. When you crack a piston ring it creates excessive 'blow by' which is oil passing by the piston and out the crank case. I have oil all over the plastic panels that cover the car. The plastic panels on the bottom of the car will actually prevent it from leaking to the ground, under most circumstances. Just be safe if you decide to go with the Procharged one, they are a TON of fun, but can be costly if not tuned properly!

 

Nice! You posted exactley what I was looking for. thank you for this info.