trying to make this short: 07 g35 ip 6mt 85k miles. wanted to change spark plugs and clean throttle body and i failed at idle relearn procedure.. about 50 times.., plus been having overheating issues in slow traffic for a couple months, sooo:

i've got a mechanic that works from his house, Ulf. Ulf did my jwt clutch a few years ago and did a wonderful job. hes an old timer. honest guy. took my car to him and he got the car idling 600-800 rpm beautifully.. he noticed my fans werent working sufficiently. then he noticed a huge hole in the top of my radiator. had him put in csf rad(400 +200 in labor), replace fans(200including labor), and our last moments suprise was needing a new water pump(215$ including labor). after a month i just got her back yesterday.

2 minor issues: he didn't cut the mishimoto upper radiator hose so its pretty well kinked. its gone from a width of O to less than 0

secondly, ive never heard this before but my passenger side headlight is rattling. the edge of the inner silverish looking part of headlight looks like its hitting the edge of the clear housing cover. idk it gets freakin loud in the cabin at certain rpm. not withstandable without music. one might even mistake it for an engine knock.

one BIG issue... cruising low and slow starting to brake and engage into a 90 degree right turn, midway through i suddenly have absolutely no steering power, christmas tree lights on dashboard. i couldn't make the full turn so i went straight through the oncoming lane and right into a bank driveway. after a couple minutes i started it and it all acted normal again and i just drove back home cautiously... did i just throw a loose sensor from ulf's doings when he had to move a bunch of things to make the csf rad fit? had there been traffic on that road or no bank entrance for me to coast into then i would have been completely screwed

i work on old carbureted motorcycles and don't know much about the modern car technology, although i do all the work that i can that doesn't involve expensive computers and what not.. and im in college with low funds so that why i have ulf doing the work. i want to be able to relay to him your guys' knowledge because i get the sense hes seeing theres a bit of a learning curve for this car, or he's just half assing it. not sure but i want to know the cause and solution myself so i know im safe again plus i can understand the electronics a little better... he knows about the rad hose kink so hes going to fix it tomorrow.

 

Tell him what happened, if he looks puzzled just tell him you're going to have a dealership look at it... As far as your problems go, I'm lost... try tightening the headlight? And the steering, well like you said you can go through and look around for loose connections.

 

thanks for your input. he'll most likely try solving it all tomorrow. if not i will have a specialist look at it

 

this issue still isn't solved and i could really use help -_-

the home-mechanic, ulf, shortened the upper rad hose and attempted to fix the "big "issue but it didn't work so now im at a place called Don's auto imports with no nissan/infiniti specialty mechanics but a bunch of old guys. decided on giving them a shot and i initially gave them 2 days to solve the issue before i take my car to a nissan/infiniti specialist.

well a week later and the problem is on the tip of theyre tongue as they say... they checked the maf sensor and tb and a few other things and all seemed to function correctly.

today they called and now they think when ulf removed/installed the water pump that he didn't use the specialty tools require(or use them efficiently) to keep the tension on the timing chain. so basically, the chain is off-centered and they are quoting 9 hours @ $100/hr to reset the timing chain.

is it possible that this is the issue that causes my car to die(along with steerings shot, christmas tree lights, and spongy brakes) when i push the clutch in(happens at intermittent times)?

they don't know 100% thats the issue but i told don's to go for it cause i really need this issue fixed asap. if this doesn't fix it then ill be heading to a delearship cause shes my daily driver thats been down for nearly 3 months.

does anyone have any insight on this? has it happened to anyone before? does it sound like don's is on the right track?

 

giving dons a suprise visit today cause i haven't heard from them since i last posted. i heard that the CEL would light up immediately if the timing chain was off by even 1 so now im worried that im wasting don's time and theyre wasting my time. hopefully its atleast put back together so i can take it to a delearship

ill be sure to post the issue when its figured out in-case someone has the same issue... then im going to most likely sell my car and get something old school carbureted with less electrical nonsense that i can work on myself.

 

Don's auto Imports failed. resetting the timing chain did not fix it the issue.. they tried alot of other things and in the receipt it says they used radiator stop leak fluid... in my newly and freshly installed CSF radiator. not a clue what thats about but now im finally at nissan of vero beach. talking to the specialist mechanic thats worked 30+ years on these cars and off the top of his head he's puzzled about the issue cause it stalls at intermittent times when clutch is depressed when moving, but never stalls when im shifting or not moving.

losing hope in my car. especially when nissan tells me it may cost more time and money than i want to spend and therefore should consider a new car. just what i want to hear, complete bs. ill be getting an update tomorrow

 

You have no CELs whatsoever??? The car is stalling because of an issue with either air, fuel, or spark. It's actually simpler with electronics providing diagnostics vs older cars.

Anyway, you had a non-specialist make some repairs and now the car doesn't work right. Not that hard to figure out what went wrong... You need someone that knows what they are doing and has access to a consult 2 go back through all the work recently performed. Get a full data log while taking it out on a test drive. Should be pretty straightforward after that.

 

apsolutely no CEL. even after i very quickly restart the car the moment it stalls(if im moving in traffic)..the mechanic thinks it may be electrical... its weird cause the car is obviously getting sufficient air/spark/fuel because i can drive it from shop to shop(sometimes it wont stall at all, other times it stalled several times). it seems if i hit the accelerator and go up to like 4k rpm fairly quickly then depress the clutch, then the rpms will fall straight down and stall.. then i softly hit the accelerator and slowly brought it up to 4k then hit the clutch in the same manner and the rpms fell all the way down but didn't stall, instead the rpms spiked around 1100+ish rpm and falls back all the way down to near 0 and keeps doing that until it kind of equilizes out after 4ish times. i can just keep my foot on the accelerator when i depress the clutch and that will keep from rpms falling all the way down.

ive given nissan a detailed paper on all the hands that have touched my car, when, and why so it's only a matter of time now. ill be getting an update tomorrow from nissan.. i trust them if anyone so its a bit of a sigh of relief getting it here. granted the previous mechanics gave it their honest and best shot


another note: the car is slow to start when sitting still, it takes a few more seconds of holding the ignition key to get it to fire. seems to start normally after each time the idle relearn procedure is done, but then gradually the more stalls, the worse the initial startup become(only when sitting still). otherwise, it starts right up when moving in traffic

 

Throttle body, cam sensors, or crank position sensors by the symptoms... Again, you just need a full data log while recreating the event.

 

Nissan called today. they are confident that the whole issue is caused by the 200$ fans that the initial mechanic put in. i'll figure out the exact details on why it happened when i pick it up in a couple days. something about a bad electrical signal... they are replacing it with an oem parts 650$ plus 600 for labor. if thats the issue, praise the lord. ill pay it and be done.

 

yet another lovely update. the mechanic took the cheapo fans off, drove it and it had no more stalling problems whatsoever. put the new fans on and he said it was good to go. just payed 1300$ an got my car back. one minute within driving it away and it stalls at a red light. 5 minutes in and it stalls while going 45. (stalls only when i push clutch in)..

the cheapo fans backfed to the ecm which causes stall. well its obvious now thats not the fix cause it stalled 3 times in less than 10 minutes driving home. idle is less sporadic when i depress the clutch though... so now they think there is play on my camshaft and probably need a new engine.

also, my engine(second) is having the same recall issue as my first where its putting oil in places where it shouldnt be(oil blowby?) ...the guys are talking about different options for me cause a new engine is expensively impractical, for a college student.. so basically if a can't replace the engine for free cause the recall issue then i can kiss my baby goodbye.

 

Why delete the thread? Are you planning on selling the car on this forum?

Curious to know what the problem was/is and if it got resolved.