I'd start off with the FSM it tells you how to troubleshoot each if your problems verbatim. Hope that guy gets some karma back his way. Did it do this before you swapped fuel pump and throttle body?

 

Yeah before I swapped the throttle body and fuel pump it was turning on and off whenever it wanted.

 

Who put the fuel pump and throttle body on your car? Do you know if they did the ECU, throttle, and idle-air re-learn procedures?

It always tries to crank at least right?

I just want to make sure I understand this. So, if the car doesn't start, you pull out the AC relay you put in the fuel pump location, the car will start, and then immediately die?

Have you tried pressing on the gas while you start the car up to see if that makes a difference?

Try unplugging the MAF (electrical connecter in the intake tube behind air filter) and start the car, but don't give it gas or anything.

 

I had my friend swap them out, but he didn't do the reset procedures, and yeah it always cranks, if it doesn't start the best chance of making it start is unplugging the Ac relay and plugging it in the fuel pump relay spot, at this point I just have it there the whole time and if I need it to start I just Unplug and plug back in. I bought MAF cleaner should I do that and then put it back? Lately its been starting everytime but it dies within 10 seconds and I've tried giving it gas to keep it on but it only postpones it. I deleted the 4 codes it had 2 days ago and haven't driven it and yesterday morning only 1 came back, bank 1 sensor 1. Is it safe to say I should replace that first?

 

I would first follow all these procedures since you changed the throttle body:

http://www.6mt.net/forum/performance...rocedures.html

Now, it can be extremely difficult to get it working on your first try, but keep at it.

I wouldn't worry about the O2 or IVT sensors right now. I'd be more concerned with getting your car running first. I don't think those would stop your car from starting and remaining on. Try unplugging the MAF connector first to see if the car starts and stays on by itself. It should go into a default mode where it runs real rich.

If the car responds to that then yes, I would say try cleaning the MAF. You'll need a T20 security bit though to disconnect it.

I would also try getting a replacement relay, since it turns the pump on and off. The AC relay might be slightly different internally, so it doesn't keep the pump running. Do you know if they were the same exact numbers written on them? I'd order a used IPDM from the same year and model, since they changed over the years. That would be your best bet for getting replacement relays.

Is the bank 1 sensor 1 the same DTC you posted before?

 

I am not sure if the relays had the same number. So if I disconnect the MAF the car will start if that's dirty or broken? And yes it shot out the p0037 code yesterday morning. I tried finding the fuel relay but I can't find it anywhere except with the entire fuse box or from the dealership but they don't sell it separately.

 

Yes, the car will start with the MAF disconnected. It will just throw a bunch of codes and be in limp mode basically.

I'd start searching on eBay or junk yards then and find an IPDM for the same year as your car and get the relays from that. It will be a lot cheaper then buying a brand new one from the dealer.

 

Thanks man, I will look or if any new problems come up I'll keep you posted, I think I'm going to do this stuff on Sunday.

 

Cleaned the MAF, got new fuel relay, replaced bank 1 sensor 1 and nothing has improved. Car cranks not starts. idk what to do at this point. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Hmm, running out of ideas here, lol.

Did you try starting the car without the MAF plugged in?
Try unplugging the two IVT solenoids well and crank the engine (Two harnesses on the front of the engine above the timing cover).
What lights stay on?
Can you jump the car?
Try using another key.
Does that red light stay on when you try to start the car?
Check the huge fuse on the battery and the fuses near the driver side.
Spray some starting fluid in the throttle body.


Compression test.
Getting spark from the plugs?
Pull out the plugs see if there covered in fuel. Maybe the engine is flooded with fuel?

Ask the dealer to run the VIN and what/if recalls were done on the car.

Could be the camshaft, crankshaft, or VTC sensors as well.

2003 Infiniti G35 Recall ID from NHTSA: 03V455000
Auto Recall Date: 11/17/2003
Vehicle Component: ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 630000
2003 INFINITI G35 Defect Summary:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.
Defect Consequence:
THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S). VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON DECEMBER 22, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.
Notes: NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC., R3021/R3022