Typically it's a failing torque converter control solenoid (TCC). Here's a picture of the valve body so you see which one it is.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...identification

However some of those Jatco transmissions are also notorious for the pin breaking off right at the valve body electrical harness. You would just need to disassemble and remove the valve body/TCM and first inspect the harness pin. Solder it back on if that's what broke, if it's not broken then replace that TCC solenoid.

Or just replace the entire valve body with a remanufactured unit.

It could possibly be other things but solenoids are somewhat common to fail so I would start there.

 

The problem is the light dosent stay on it just blinks maybe once a week about 10 to 15 times then goes off.. Took it to dealer said its not showing any codes...

 

Did you find what's causing the light to blink?

Mine blinked 3 times today and stopped. The car drives fine and i did drain and fill 2k miles ago.

 

Did you verify correct fluid level?

 

Fluid level looks correct. Do you think that low level or high level of fluid cuasing this issue?

 

No, scan the car with an OBD2 reader that does TCM codes and see if there's a code stored.

 

I have Tourque Pro and found no code.. Do you now if it scans TCM codes?

 

It does not.

 

Bummer. I'll work on it and report back.

 

Normally all your local parts houses like O'Reilly, Autozone, Napa, etc will scan your car for free and their diagnostic units typically scan all systems because they want to sell you replacement parts.

 

Good to know they can scan the transmission codes. I thought they can only scan basic engine codes.

 

What's the best way to check the transmission fluid level if i don't have a scanner that can read the transmission temp?

If I do a drian & fill and add 4qt of fluid will that provide me the correct fluid level even if it was overfill or under fill previously?

 

Always check the tranny fluid level even after a drain/fill.

Go for a drive, 10 minutes is enough, park the car LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING, then go through each gear, P-R-N-D-2-1 then back up through the gears, let it sit in each gear for a full second.

Put the car in park, LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING, open the hood, remove the 10mm bolt holding down the dipstick cap, wipe/insert/wipe/insert/wipe/insert the dipstick about 10 or so times until you are getting a clean and accurate reading (there will be fluid in the dipstick tube so you have to just keep inserting/remove/wipe the dipstick to clear it.

The fluid needs to be measured hot, the valve body needs to be holding as much fluid as possible, thus why you leave the engine running and don't turn it off.

 

I took the car to a transmission shop to check it. I didn't drive the car after I got the AT Check light blinking to prevent unnecessary problems until I get it checked.

The shop pulled 2 codes P1762 and P1752. They did a complete check of the transmission and also test drove it after they clear the codes.

The shop said the fluid looks good and the level is correct. They weren't able to find any issues and the codes didn't came back. They told me to drive it to see if the codes comes back. They think it maybe the battery is going bad or electrical glitch since the transmission feels solid.

What's your thoughts?

 

Good be one of the solenoids starting to fail intermittently.

There is a transmission ground on the front of the engine timing cover you should clean up though, very front, top, middle of the timing chain cover are two wires landed on bolts. One of them is the transmission ground and I strongly recommend unbolting them, wire brush all mating surfaces, electrical anti-oxidation grease, reinstall.