Yeah man, haha. That's a wide engine too!

 

Yeah, she has got some big ole' hips which is making power ststeering an issue.....

 

are you based in FL what do you make of zfever?

 

I am in CT.
Zfever does good work from my experience, but unless you are spending big money, you are loq on the totem pole. Doug ia very knowledgeable but over worked. He is great to talk to when he can be reached.

I have very little negative to say about them.

 

OK so update time.
I let it be cause I looked and noticed that the adapter plate was rubbing on the tunnel and then I saw the trans harness was appearing to be pinched.

So because there is little to no room for movement to tip the engine. I had to drop the subframe, separate the motor and subframe and top the trans mount. and I actually pulled the headers and the entire motor/trans combo out of the car. I banged in the trans tunnels where it was rubbing and made some adjustments of the engine and firewall.


VK56de install on a G35 tips....

1. The even bank of the motor is on the passenger side and that means it sites further back. If you look at the firewall on a G35 you will notice that the passenger side of the firewall is further forward that the driver side. That means you are gonna be beating that sh*t in with a hammer to allow the motor to sit far enough back with the Mckinley mounts.

2. There are notches on each head of the motor outboard, aft of the top of the head which 2 metal brackets are mounted for holding the upper ox sensor wires, These mounts need to be removed and the chuck of aluminum that mounts them to the head cut off in order to clear the firewall on the passenger sides, and the steering column on the driver side. It will force the column down and not align if it chopped off.





3. the rack and pinon needs to be removed and the and the top line input needs to be removed and replaced with a 90 degree line input and you must remake the line. I removed and crushed 4 different lines in including the stock line before I released this, trying different ways.





4. be patient. I put this motor in and took it out 3 times with no issue and the 4th time I did it I changed one thing I did and it pushed the motor over an inch further back and it did not fit right. Had to rip it all out and start over. sooooooooo

 

Spoke with Collins adapters and they are up to the task of doing my shifter.

My trans sits so far back that the entire shift linkage past the u-joint is junk. The are going to take the collar that holds the linkage to the shifter and make me a shifter.

Here is an idea of how short it will be.



Because of Nissan, in their infinite wisdom, decided this was a good idea.



I can not mount the battery upfront. SO I have to redesign this entire block in a manageable way that won't ark closer to the metal surface.

AND FINALLY, some glory shots.





Oh yes and I did shorten the oil fill stack

 

When you're done with all this are you going to have room to fix things that wear out over time without completely removing the motor or front clip at least? Like will you be able to replace a power steering pump or a radiator or even a thermostat without completely disassembling the car?

 

sorry scragglerock, didn't see a thing for you posting.

I can't honestly tell you if I will be able to, I do however think I will.
If you look at some of the side shorts I took of the motor and how far back it sits. I think it sits further back than the V6. If this is true than absolutely I will have plenty of room for those things.

 

Ok, sooooo I guess you ran out of things to talk to me about.

Moving forward. I was able to pick up my drive shaft from CT DRIVE SHAFT in East Hartford CT. Chris and Jesse are no BS guys who know there stuff. Thy handed me a flange and yoke, I went home and measured how they told me to. Called them with the measurement, 3 days later Jesse called me back saying it was ready. I stopped in today and he put on the flange and yoke and I was done.

No BS, No Drama. Thank you very much guys.







Still waiting on Brett Collins from Collins adapters to do my shifter shortening. That is turning out to be another Nightmare about getting the right Sh*t.

Basically I called and explained what I needed, spoke directly to Brett. He said no problem ship it to the address on the website and call me back when it gets here.

Checked the tracking and called the day it arrived. He looked at it and the picture I enclosed, we reviewed exactly what I need, again he said no problem, but since it is gonna be completely from scratch, it will take about 3 weeks. No problem.

He emails me a week later saying its done and what is my paypal email. I inquire if he did all I asked and what we agreed on. NOPE, he just did their basic shortening process. So I told him he did it wrong and called him and explained all over again what I wanted. He said ok and email him requesting an invoice.

A week of emailing him requesting an invoice. I called and called with no answer and I finally emailed him reviewing all the dates and times we spoke and our conversations. He finally invoiced me, for the correct amount and said 2 weeks.


That was on the 10th. We shall see what happens next week.

 

So I will be in the garage this weekend, here is the list.

-remove headers
-install upstream O2
-install headers............again...
-install heater core lines
-bend and install new front brake lines
-cut back fuel and evap lines to reroute away from headers
-install plastic intake
-wait on shifter
-IF O2 sensers clear with headers on, order ps pump, alt and a/c comp

 

It's stories like this one, that are sadly more the norm than the exception on any custom projects. I've come to the conclusion that if and when I do a swap on my G or any extensive custom work for that matter it's just easier to learn to do it yourself. Welding being one such skill.

 

Sadly I have zero experience welding.

I also am not supposed to be working on my car in the garage... rental.

I want to get all thisthis info out there though cause so many people have given up on this.

 

Your project is awesome and thank you for posting about it. It's certainly given me a lot of ideas on what I want to do next with the car. I'm slowly working up my skill-set to attempt a swap and some of the steps you've taken such as the firewall modification are paving the way for others like me.

 

Thank you

As you can tell this is not about absolute power. I could have gone 4 different directions. This is about pushing the boundaries with the car and making it the way it should have come out of the factory.

 

Sorry, man, I just don't come on here as much anymore. Just to kind of drunk ramble late at night.

I'd like to reiterate row2k's sentiment tho and tell you how much some of us appreciate this and how important it may be to someone in the future. It's really a great build.

Requesting a bit of back info tho, where did this come from? Haha are you an engineer? Have you just been working on cars heavily for awhile? I'm not sure how pedestrian YOU yourself think this is, but it is 0% amateur, so it's interesting where you learned to get down like this..? I mean swapping a motor is one thing, but reengineering the chassis completely is pretty wild.