I picked these up for a steal on amazon recently and have been waiting to pick up a few other items on the intake side to do it all at once.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/36AwXbCde4vUbe3AA
They are pretty close to stock when at our correct psi. I'm thinking these could help with the car running lean once I start adding breather mods to it until I can get it tuned. Plus, the injectors have 125k miles on them and new ones never hurt lol. Would these be ok to use as drop-ins? It could be a year or so until I can save enough for mods and a tune.

 

The car shouldn't be "running lean" it has a +/- 50% fuel trim to keep injectors open/closed for longer. It changes the long term fuel trim to modify fuel and can be read with an OBD2 scanner. The upstream O2 sensor (air fuel sensor) takes the reading and the ECU compensates fuel to hit the target fuel ratio. The only time you NEED bigger injectors is when you are adding a substantial amount more air to the system either via displacement or forced induction. All you will do by adding higher flow rate injectors is cause the vehicle to be running a lower LTFT, it's still going to be the same in the combustion chamber regardless.

The ONLY reason I see to replace your injectors right now is due to mileage, I'd try to get a set of Bosch or other name brand ones though. I've never used those AUS injectors but I think they used to be the low end ones that Jegs sells.

 

I should of been more specific when I was saying lean lol. Having no personal experience other than what I can gleam from youtube, it seems that most people who do intakes and exhaust on their cars tend to run lean until the car is tuned. I could definitely be wrong, but this is what I've found from tons of different videos.

AUS is a company from Arizona. I did a little reading on them and they do seem to be legit and make some good stuff. And for the price I paid, I'll give them a chance. They're rated at 320cc at 3bar, but from my gathering our cars run at 3.5bar which would have an overall increase in potential flow rate, correct?

 

Yes it runs lean for a couple milliseconds until the ECU compensates for fuel, +/-25% is "normal operating range" when you exceed 25% though it turns the check engine light on to let the operator know it's having to trim a lot of extra fuel but it has the ability to go all the way to +/- 50%. Again that doesn't mean the ENGINE IS RUNNING LEAN, it means the ECU is having to COMPENSATE for fuel outside the "normal operating range". These type of fuel management changes are known as "short term fuel trim" STFT which is the conditions that change from one second to the next, like when you mash the accelerator and quickly release, the ECU dumped a lot of extra fuel, then you shut off the air so it quickly rebounds, it runs SLIGHTLY lean and then SLIGHTLY rich and the ECU constantly ping-pongs between these high and low limits, you can read these values by watching the actual O2 sensor data.

Over time (minutes/hours/days/etc) the ECU determines how much extra fuel it has to compensate for ON AVERAGE and uses it to determine LONG term fuel trim LTFT. This is used mostly as a diagnostic tool for technicians to read because it can indicate a vacuum leak, clogged injectors, etc.

What happens if you add a bunch of breather mods is you now allow for the consumption of more air than normal, the ECU adds extra fuel as needed which increases the baseline LTFT (get an OBD2 reader that shows you these values and test before/after the mods, you'll see what I mean). STFT can be read and will also show an increased baseline value, when it exceeds +/-25% fuel then the service engine light comes on for lean or rich conditions but the combustion chamber conditions are NOT lean or rich, the computer is still managing fuel trim to compensate but it's got the light on so you know it's compensating more than normal.

The base tune is designed to work with ALL engines produced for the vehicle regardless of all the variables associated with mass produced equipment, variances in sensor input/output, injector flow rates, air filter conditions from no restriction to mostly clogged, various temperature ranges, atmospheric conditions, etc. It's got a LOT of flexibility and is designed for longevity and emissions control mostly. It's pretty "sloppy" however and will allow for a lot of various load conditions causing slightly rich to slightly lean operation.

Getting a tune doesn't CHANGE the amount of air coming into the engine or the amount of fuel needed for proper combustion, the fuel targets are moved to your EXACT engine conditions to fill in the OEM lean and rich conditions at various rpm's and the whole baseline is flattened out to zero so your NEW baseline values reflect the new fuel consumption.

The OEM injector flow rates are sufficient to handle any N/A application of this motor outside of increasing displacement. I would definitely stick with an OEM type replacement unless you have done all your research into higher flow rate injectors on an N/A motor or you could end up with the exact OPPOSITE problem which is a rich condition and the ECU having to subtract fuel and the associated check engine light.

Bolt on all your mods, then find out what duty cycle the injectors are running at, if they are exceeding 85% duty cycle get larger injectors to bring the duty cycle down between 50-80%, shoot for like 60% or so.

 

Technically it trims fuel until 100% duty cycle (static load on injectors) which happens AROUND the +60%ish mark for OEM but it will limp mode the car before that.

 

I should also add that higher flow rate injectors will be needed when the rpm is raised, 7500 can probably work with the OEM injectors but a motor built for anything over that will almost definitely need bigger injectors.

 

Ahhhh ok makes so much more sense. Thanks for the education