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G35 runs without crankshaft sensor

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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 10:19 AM
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G35 runs without crankshaft sensor

I replaced both cam sensors and the crankshaft sensor due to my car taking 5 seconds to start and engine code p0335 after engine swap. I noticed my crankshaft sensor was bolted halfway into the transmission. I bolted the new crank sensor all the way in and the car starts normal but the car bogs and stalls a few seconds later. So, i took the new crank sensor out and re-bolted it halfway into the transmission, and my car runs normal. However, it takes 5 seconds to start everytime and check engine, vdc, and slip light is on. Does anyone know how can i fix this long start?
I can post videos later
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 11:01 AM
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Get an OBD2 scanner and the car will tell you what's wrong since your CEL is lit.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Get an OBD2 scanner and the car will tell you what's wrong since your CEL is lit.
p0335 (crankshaft sensor) as stated earlier
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 11:26 AM
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Use only a Nissan CKP sensor, inspect the harness for damage. If you used anything other than an actual OEM Nissan sensor that's probably why it isn't working properly.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Use only a Nissan CKP sensor, inspect the harness for damage. If you used anything other than an actual OEM Nissan sensor that's probably why it isn't working properly.
Used z1 motorsports ckp, Where should i look for the damage on harness? I dont know how it could be the harness if the car starts normally when the ckp is bolted all the way in. It just stalls when it is all the way in. Could it be the flywheel? How can a flywheel be misaligned?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 12:24 PM
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I think Z1 only sells authentic OEM crank sensors, there's still a slight chance yours is defective but I would start by removing the CKP and thoroughly inspecting it for any physical damage, scuffing/abrasions/cracks/obvious damage, make sure the harness still looks sealed and that it doesn't have any visibly damaged pins in the harness or the connector on the CKP.

Next, with the CKP removed look up into the hole where it reads the flywheel signal plate, do you see any debris accumulated near the edge of the hole? Turn the motor by hand at least one full rotation and inspect the entire diameter of the signal plate for any missing teeth or other damage.

If everything looks ok I would reinstall the CKP, clear the codes and try to start the motor again to see if the code comes back, codes like this will be stored for some time they don't just automatically fall off when the issue is gone, it might take a couple days for it to be removed on its own. Once it's manually cleared see if it comes back when you try to start the vehicle again.

How the system is designed to work, you turn the ignition key which sends signal to the ECM to close the ignition contact and power the starter motor. Simultaneously the ECM monitors the CKP sensor and if a signal is found the ECM closes the fuel pump relay and pressurizes the fuel system. While cranking, the ECM continues to monitor CKP to determine engine speed while simultaneously monitoring CAM position sensors and combines the data to open injectors and deliver spark at the proper moment.

Typically people experience problems like "won't crank = CKP sensor" or "cranks but won't start = CAM sensor or fuel pump failure". You definitely want the CKP properly installed, without proper signal the ECU will shut off fuel delivery.

You may be experiencing another failure as well, possibly the fuel pump and unfortunately there is no factory installed fuel port to measure pressure. Z1 does make a convenient sandwich adaptor for the passenger side fuel damper and you can either install a permanent gauge or a schrader valve, or both.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2018 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
I think Z1 only sells authentic OEM crank sensors, there's still a slight chance yours is defective but I would start by removing the CKP and thoroughly inspecting it for any physical damage, scuffing/abrasions/cracks/obvious damage, make sure the harness still looks sealed and that it doesn't have any visibly damaged pins in the harness or the connector on the CKP.

Next, with the CKP removed look up into the hole where it reads the flywheel signal plate, do you see any debris accumulated near the edge of the hole? Turn the motor by hand at least one full rotation and inspect the entire diameter of the signal plate for any missing teeth or other damage.

If everything looks ok I would reinstall the CKP, clear the codes and try to start the motor again to see if the code comes back, codes like this will be stored for some time they don't just automatically fall off when the issue is gone, it might take a couple days for it to be removed on its own. Once it's manually cleared see if it comes back when you try to start the vehicle again.

How the system is designed to work, you turn the ignition key which sends signal to the ECM to close the ignition contact and power the starter motor. Simultaneously the ECM monitors the CKP sensor and if a signal is found the ECM closes the fuel pump relay and pressurizes the fuel system. While cranking, the ECM continues to monitor CKP to determine engine speed while simultaneously monitoring CAM position sensors and combines the data to open injectors and deliver spark at the proper moment.

Typically people experience problems like "won't crank = CKP sensor" or "cranks but won't start = CAM sensor or fuel pump failure". You definitely want the CKP properly installed, without proper signal the ECU will shut off fuel delivery.

You may be experiencing another failure as well, possibly the fuel pump and unfortunately there is no factory installed fuel port to measure pressure. Z1 does make a convenient sandwich adaptor for the passenger side fuel damper and you can either install a permanent gauge or a schrader valve, or both.
Interesting, i noticed my old ckp had a groove on the end that goes into the transmission. The new ckp had the same type of groove when i pulled it out the other day. Someone told me that, that is normal to have that type of wear on the sensors. I will check my flywheel and connectors when i get a chance. I just dont see how it can be fuel related or anything of that sort if the car runs normal when it is halfway into the tranny. (I have been driving it because daily driven. Its just takes about 5 seconds to start everytime i shut car off) My rpms are also sluggish at times which make me think it is flywheel related
 
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Old Jan 31, 2019 | 07:19 PM
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Flywheel was misaligned!
 
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