Ok, so it's not my car, but my moms. She has a 2006 G35 Sedan.

I had to drive it to work one day and it completely shut off on me on the freeway, went completely dead! Luckily, I was in the slow lane during rush hour and was able to glide it off to the shoulder.

The car died, I tried cranking it a couple of times, and after a while, it did turn on, and I was able to drive home, scared the **** out of me! And my mom said this is normal, it happens to her WTF.

So, here I am, trying to fix it for her. I did some searches but could not find most information, I have an Autel Maxidag 808P and here are the fault codes it threw:

1) BCM FAULT | 5
2) IPDM E/R FAULT 1
3) ENGINE FAULT | 2
4) ABS FAULT | 1
5) TRANSMISSION FAULT | 1
6) DTC CODE STATUS: DTC CONTENT
7) C1109 9 BATTERY VOLTAGE
8) P1815 M-MODE SWITCH
9) P 0335 1t - CKP SEN/CIRCUIT
10) P 0335 1t - CKP SEN/CIRCUIT (AGAIN x2)
11) none
12) none
13) U1000 PAST CAN COMM CIRCUIT
14) C1705 PAST LOW PRESSURE FR
15) C1724 CRNT BATT VOLT LOW
16) C1725 CRNT BATT VOLT LOW
17) C1726 CRNT BATT VOLT LOW
18) C1704 PAST LOW PRESSURE FL

A little info about the car:

I did change the crankshaft position sensor and will drive it around more to see what that did/if it helped.

When I shift the car into reverse the car lunges back.

Yes, it does have the fuel sensor problem so the fuel level is not correct...and its hard to put has in it, I think the system is ****ed

I went under the car to see its condition, it looks like I need to replace the valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, spark plugs, air filer, transmission gasket. The valve cover gaskets look pretty bad, pretty bad leak, trickling down onto a lot of components.

What makes me mad is my uncle sold my mom this car and she paid top dollar for it, ripped her off! Shes been driving it like this for a while, and that amazes me.

Where should I start?! I want to fix it for her so she has a decent car to drive around.

(sorry for posting the TPMS codes, I am well aware it needs new sensors )

 

The car stalling looks like it was being caused by the faulty CKP you already replaced, I doubt the vehicle will stall out again, symptoms include hard starting like you have experienced. If you didn't use an OEM or Hitachi brand CKP I would strongly recommend you get one, other brands are notorious for early failure or simply not working at all.

It looks like you have a LOT of battery related problems, these cars are just computers that run a mechanical device, without a good battery the computer DOESNT WORK RIGHT. Take it to a reputable battery shop and have it tested, they will wheel out a large cart with a contraption on it called a "load bank", basically they disconnect your battery and use it to power a large heater element and fan while they monitor for voltage drop. Using a digital multimeter alone will NOT tell you how healthy the battery is. If it's a vented battery you can also use a hydrometer to test the electrolyte which is a pretty good indicator of battery health.

Along with the battery test you need to THOROUGHLY clean the cables (both ends) and the battery terminals, apply an anti-oxidation grease to the connections when done, not that garbage "red spray" they sell, you want the actual electrical grease.

The fueling problem you are having is probably that the pump keeps shutting off while you're trying to fill it up right? There's an EVAP bypass hose on the tank that has a high failure rate and becomes clogged up, talk to your local Nissan dealership to see if the vehicle is covered under any service extension, there was a letter that went out to owners last year I think about getting it replaced.

The ABS, BCM, TCM, ECM errors are probably ALL due to a bad battery.

The MM error is usually the ManuMatic switch on the shifter assembly going out, you can take it apart and spray electrical contact cleaner which usually makes it work again for a while. The switch is sort of a piece of crap though and will likely need replacement, if you never use the manual shifting mode for the transmission then it's a non-issue.

 

Also, the TPMS stuff can be fixed pretty easily, buy the sensors yourself and have a reputable local tire shop install them. Personally I have no issue buying refurbished sensors, basically they install new batteries in them and clean them up a little and resell them.

 

Holy crap, you are a GOD @cleric670@gmail . Thank You very much! I owe you a beer.

I did buy a duralast sensor for autozone, so i will try to get OEM asap!

 

As for the lunging into reverse, there's a couple reasons this can happen.

First is suspension/drivetrain play that allows it to build up some momentum before coming to a halt, I STRONGLY suspect the rear differential subframe bushing is shot, it's the weakest point on the entire car and notoriously fails at about 60k miles, just search "G35 rear diff bushing" and you should find lots of pictures of the component. If you're mechanically inclined it's a very straightforward repair, take off the muffler, unbolt the propeller shaft and CV axles, use a service jack to help take the differential out (weighs about 90 lbs). Then my new preferred method is to use a large holesaw to core out the old rubber bushing and take a sawzall and cut out a little 1/4" notch in the race of the old bushing. Be careful not to cut into the subframe too bad (it's almost inevitable that you're going to ding it a little, no biggie unless you're pushing some wild horsepower like 700+), then use a screwdriver and hammer to drive out that little 1/4" notch and from there the race practically folds in on itself. Both the race and subframe are aluminum so it's VERY easy to work with.

Most people replace the trash OEM rubber rear diff bushing with a polyurethane one, partially for the sake of it being a performance upgrade, mostly for the sake of never having to replace it again.

There are a few other points that can also cause drivetrain play but they are usually associated with a loud CLUNK and/or vibration at speed. You would probably know if it was one of those type of issues and they're not very prevalent on the G35. (Rear diff bushing can clunk as well when the rubber is gone and it's literally a 1" metal stud banging around inside a 3" metal hole...)

The next big item that can cause shift lunging is high line pressure in the transmission, this is typically symptoms of an ENGINE problem and the vehicle not maintaining a proper low idle speed. There's a series of resets that you should perform on the vehicle using the "pedal dance" method. Get a stopwatch or something that accurately counts seconds, you need to be very precise with these resets, you're not going to screw anything up by doing them wrong they simply won't reset is all. I don't know where the idle is sitting but it should be 650rpm at idle while in park. If it's high then you definitely want to start looking around for a vacuum leak as well as doing the idle air recalibration, this car doesn't use an idle air control valve but rather some fancy algorithm that needs to be recalibrated occasionally (like every 60k miles).

https://nicoclub.com/archives/g35-35...procedure.html

If it's still slamming into reverse it might be a sign of contaminated transmission fluid that hasn't been changed in.... well ever... that has a higher friction coefficient that's making the clutch packs engage too abruptly inside the auto tranny. From the sounds of it the car is probably overdue on a transmission fluid drain/fill anyways, only use Nissan Matic-J or Matic-S (either is fine, one is a synthetic upgrade over the other, completely intercompatible on the G35). Someone else might chime in to correct me but it's like 4 quarts for a D/F, no filter to change because it's a permanent screen-type, there's a drain plug on the pan but you need to remove a 10mm bolt from the dipstick tube up top to refill it.

Hopefully that points you in the right direction, I completely understand what it's like to be fixing mom's busted rig lol.

 

Amen, his technical knowledge of cars and desire to pass that on to us make him a great member and moderator. GOD, not sure he's that lofty but maybe.

 

 

If the P0462 pops up along with that U1000 CAN code then chances are very likely that you have an electrical malfunction and need to take the entire power delivery system apart and clean EVERYTHING. Take off the fusible link, the cables (both ends) the engine ground jumper, clean EVERYTHING. I'm pretty sure you'll find a connection with damage or a significant amount of corrosion.

There are also 2 primary data systems bond screws that need to be checked. The ECM one is behind the stereo, the BCM one is behind the instrument cluster, I'd start with the one behind the stereo, ESPECIALLY if it has an aftermarket stereo. iirc it's a green screw but you should be able to google a picture of it.

 

 

I'd focus on the U1000 code first, CAN errors cause all sorts of madness.

 

Do the cluster self diagnosis also, I was getting the 462 error code intermittently and my fuel level sensors tested out correctly. However, when I did the cluster check the fuel level would not go to the middle like it's supposed to.

Turn key on
Move to Trip A or Trip B
Turn key off
Hold down trip button
Turn key on
Press the trip button seven times real fast (If I remember)
If you press the trip button again all the needles should move around. The coolant and fuel level should be at the middle mark.

I would clear the codes anyway now, so you have a baseline