I have an 10 gsxr and a 15 Harley nightrod. My wish was to always boost my G, or should I say dream lol. I'm not sure the conditions I would need to inspect everything....

 

what's considered lasted?

 

I was looking into a rebuild kit at z1 motorsports and they have a few different rebuild kits....For $1800 I might look into doing this if it's not too hard. Mind you I have no experience in modifying cars, I am a mechanic for injection molding machines but obviously not the same. I do all my repairs and tune ups on all my vehicles but fi and rebuilds are out of my expertise. Plus I wouldn't mind taking my time with my boys and teaching (& learn myself? How to build a hotrod...Then the voice on my right shoulder says dont even think about it, take it to the shop and have it done right lol....Then a third voice lol says why not trade in for the new q60 red sport...Money I guess

 

I might just swoop up a nos kit to get that extra hp for now until I figure out if I'm going to rebuild and go fi.

 

more that a year or two.

”I’m gonna twin turbo my car, but I’m not gonna run it hard”

yeah, right.

 

There are several threads on here about turboing your car. Some are pretty much step-by-step.

 

It's much easier and cheaper to rebuild an LS engine than a VQ, and if you're mechanically minded and looking for a project, it's possible to LS swap the G for $3-5k if you buy used parts, do everything yourself, and fab your own mounts and crossmembers with sheet metal and a welder.

And then you can turbo THAT when you're tired of 400 WHP/WTQ NA and you want to be able to snap axles like toothpicks...

 

Honestly if you do it yourself rebuilding the VQ and tranny is very cheap. I'm doing pretty much exactly what you are wanting to do and just adding a shift kit on the 160k mile drive train to see how long it lasts. I really doubt the engine will go first since I'm running E85 and very conservative timing. It may eat a shat ton of oil but should hold up I'm sure the tranny clutches will go pretty quick, but I have the rebuild parts waiting for that day.

Engine rebuild / freshen up : Seals, Piston rings, Bearings, plastic gauge, head gaskets, dingle ball hone, lots of cleaners, scotch brite pads.... I spend about $200-$300 rebuilding a SR20RR and push it to 300-350 whp range and that is the weakest stock rod SR20 made. (about the same thickness rod the VQ uses)

 

This is something I’ve always wondered about, do you not these engines have Nickasil plating on the cylinder walls. That means no cast-iron or steel sleeves. What happens when it wears off? Do you not have anything but straight aluminum and no protection or is it thick enough to hone down a little bit?

 

Sounds like you really know what you're doing inside a motor. Personally I'd be hesitant to invest my time into learning how to rebuild a VQ unless I got a real steal on all the turbo/SC parts and dyno time. An LS on the other hand you can find YouTube videos going step by step from reputable engine builders for any type of motor build (cammed NA, stroker, budget turbo, built turbo, etc)

As far as the Nikasil coating, it's possible to have that done (similar process to electroplating or powder coating) if the original coating is too worn for another go, and then hone it back down to the original spec. Or you could just buy a lower mile OC Revup block from a junkyard somewhere which might be cheaper.

 

I'm In talks now to a shop out here who I plan on having rebuild my motor and installing the jwt kit along with the transgo valve body upgrade for the transmission. It won't be done all at once for I'm no baller but I plan to do the motor now and early next year have the turbos installed. Instead of me getting a nice chunk for tax return back I just got a notice from irs that they took my $8000 refund. Listen if you ever purchase a home and take a loan out of your 401k for down payment make sure to check the box to withdraw taxes... lesson learned and super bummed and that will be delaying my jwt kit for now until early next year. But I'm really looking hard into the zex nitrous kit and might run a bottle on it until I send her to the shop. Any thoughts???

 

I watched a video on YouTube of a guy who rebuilt his vq. I belive I can do it. But I have a **** load of questions. After you disassemble the motor and have the motor sent to be machined what all will be done at this time? And one thing that got me a bit nervous was the gap clearance measurements for the cams and timing. So this was why I'm going to go with a shop out in Escondido ca. To have it done right but I really would love a good project but for the $$$ I'm gonna put out it's too risky for me.

 

Almost all aluminum engines have steel cylinder liners. Some will use a nikasil or similar coating that adheres to the steel lining. The only aluminum block with no liners that I have read about are the GT500 blocks that have the plasma transfer arc wire sprayed into the cylinders. As far as I know all Nissan / Infiniti aluminum blocks have regular steel liners that can be bored and honed or replaced with new ones.

 

The debate on a LS swap or just building the stock drive train will always go on and on. If you have ever done a V8 swap of another manufactured drive train to a different car you would know why I say just rebuild what you have. A V8 LS swap takes major wiring skills to swap and make EVERYTHING work correctly, most swaps that you will see have non functional AC, won't pass emissions or some weird stuff... On top of the wiring is fabricating parts and making things fit correctly. If I did a LS V8 I probably would do it in a M35 since they have a lot more room for a V8. Either way if it's something you can't do yourself (swap or rebuilding / tuning / turbo install) I can't even guess what a shop would charge to do something like that, it would probably be much cheaper to buy a fast car in the first place But where is the fun in that?

I just find that it is easier to stick with all of the factory wiring and electronics that already work. Our ECU's are already fully capable of fully tunning the car. We already have both auto and 6 speed options. The stock engines in good shape have been proven at 400-450 whp, built with pistons and rods way higher. And if you do it right you don't have to worry about the car passing inspections (unless you are in California where a Chevy volt probably won't even pass haha). Also it's probably easier to sell than a swapped car too, there is a LS swapped G35 that's been for sale here for months and can't sell it. I think he wanted 12k for it.

 

Flex hone with plenty of oil and don't hone any more than is needed. Unless there's already damage to the nikasil there's a really LOW chance of you actually damaging it unless you are running the hone waaaaaaaaaay too long.