Please help me before I live stream my hanging. Ive been wrestling with my car and searched all up and down on the internet and called up techs for help.
Ill type out my story below and I hope someone knows whats going on and can help me without me throwing more money down.
buckle up cowboy this will be a ride;
So 2 months ago i was driving my car and my throwout bearing exploded on me, i towed it home and replaced my clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, transmission front cover plate (it was damaged), flywheel was resurfaced at a pro and bearing sleeve. I also did a service at home, replaced my spark plugs to 1 step colder since i have some mods and will add more, replaced both of my valve covers and crankcase breather hose, i replaced the oil to a thicker viscosity (10w-40) and used OEM filter, i replaced my drive belts and such.
So a month of work at home (parts delivery was the main delay) with myself (auto tech student) and a experience (doubted) mechanic. I finally start the car, 2 things occur, 1) the clutch is chattering when not engaged, when engaged (pressed in) it stops EXACTLY like in this video (

You Tube

). now to second issue, 2) the car was idling like a '67 chevelle, misfiring roughly, not dying or hesitating, just misfiring badly at idle and slightly when driving. I pulled up my Nissan DataScan II scanner and the codes were P1168, P0300, U1001, P1051.
After a lot of searching and internet 'experts' messaging me, i was told its just simply my upstream o2 sensors. So i take it to a buddies workplace (dodge dealer) and tear apart my headers and clean up everything and install brand new o2 sensors and drove out. As soon as I drove out and reset the ECU. It drove like a Rolls Royce, no misfire and smooth as warm butter. But 30ft down the road my SLIP light comes on (for some reason my VDC light never comes on, even if disengaged or not) so i thought maybe cuz i gassed it a bit at the light when i launched.
Drove home smiling like a kid with an Oscar award. I come to start my car 30mins later and its misfiring again, weird? then i pull out the scanner and these are the only 2 codes that came up P0300, U1001. So i cleared them and went to bed.
Woke up today to drive it around and wash off my new 5 layer dust paintjob. As soon as I pulled out the SLIP light came on (car never stopped misfiring). So i decided to drive around and log my car with my scanner. I clear the codes a couple of times during my drive and retrieve. First time it says P0305 and U1001, i was happy it narrowed down for a sec, then clear and drive a bit more. Next time it says P0305, P0300 and U1001. So i drove more and logged my cars data for a bit and now im here.
I ordered the normal heat range and new coil packs and will do it as soon as i get them

 

If you did not use OEM Infiniti parts you are just asking for trouble.
Carefully read the FSM for those trouble codes for your year and model
Good luck

 

i used NGK plugs. I used a really good brand of valve covers. I used duralast clutch kit. I used another o2 sensor i forgot the name. So how is a canbus issue from parts i used? Especially parts not related

 

Please read the FSM
Just looking up the first code u1001 indicates your ecm is not receiving signals possibly due to a wiring harness issue?

DTC U1000, U1001 CAN COMMUNICATION LINEPFP:23710DescriptionNBS000NXCAN (Controller Area Network) is a serial communication line for real time application. It is an on-vehicle mul-tiplex communication line with high data communication speed and excellent error detection ability. Many elec-tronic control units are equipped onto a vehicle, and each control unit shares information and links with othercontrol units during operation (not independent). In CAN communication, control units are connected with 2communication lines (CAN H line, CAN L line) allowing a high rate of information transmission with less wiring.Each control unit transmits/receives data but selectively reads required data only.On Board Diagnosis LogicNBS000NY*1: This self-diagnosis has the one trip detection logic (A/T models).The MIL will not light up for this self-diagnosis (M/T models).*2: The MIL will not light up for this self-diagnosis.DTC Confirmation ProcedureNBS000NZ1. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 3 seconds.2. Select “DATA MONITOR” mode with CONSULT-II.3. If 1st trip DTC is detected, go to EC-163, "Diagnostic Procedure

 

I understand that bro, I did every search I can. I read the FSM. My problem is what could case the U1001 to go off, what are common issues? I cleaned and ensured all my ground locations (pain in the ***) and yet its still going off.

 

My guess is the ECM correctly identified the cylinder 5 misfire. Don't just assume it's a coil pack or plug issue. Inspect the HARNESSES thoroughly for damage as well to make sure it doesn't have a bent or corroded pin or a nick in the wire. A misfire will also cause the P1168 code closed loop function sometimes because the AF sensor will be constantly reading really rich and it can trick the ECM into thinking the sensor has failed.

Once you have that issue squared away work on the U1001, basically it's a CANBUS issue where the ECM is either unable to communicate, or intermittently losing data signal from one of the other CANBUS modules. This can be things like the BCM, TCM (if 5AT tranny), IPDM (engine bay fuse box), or a couple other modules. Since you were in the engine bay I'd start there and make sure nothing got damaged with the IPDM.

If you have an aftermarket stereo head unit they may have not plugged in the CAN cable near it when they put the new HU in. Are you sure the U1001 is a NEW ISSUE or is it something that's been persistent on the car for a while.

Long route is unplugging everything and ringing out the high and low wire (ohming out) from each module. Wiring schematics are in the FSM, mostly in section PG - Power/Grounding.

 

Thank you for your really detailed answer.
I took my car to a Nissan dealer near me that has a couple of Infiniti techs (same poop different toilet) anyway, Here is a break down of what is wrong incase anyone else has this issue.

The misfire was a result of a pin fitment in Cylinder 4 ignition coil and another connector. ALWAYS make sure your connectors pin are good and straight and dont force it in.
The misfire was the cause of the flywheel dancing around and chattering.
The U1001 code is caused by either of my Tachometer or Speedometer. Apparently it has something wrong but works fine. No worries there.

I was only charged a hour labor at Nissan at 150/ph while they had my car apart for 2 days.
Thanks all for your help

 

Awesome, glad everything is working again.

 

Yea, i need an exorcist. For some reason BOTH of my drive belts just fell out of my car yesterday.