I too noticed a difference running the Motordyne aramid plenum gasket.
NO, both your engines are standard DE"s. RevUps have VTC on the exhaust cams, timing covers look completely different on the top portion of them.
Both those plenums are the non-revup. It looks like you have pics of the opposite side for each plenum comparatively.
I would guess that the OEM's have multiple molds going at once for the same part, so they need traceability should an issue with the casting arise in the future. That, OR they made some revisions and again, needed traceability.

 

The ambient sensor should be right behind the grille on the right side of the car mounted to the side of the radiator support. I'm surprised it's missing though? I can take a pic of mine later if you need to see where it mounts.

That plenum is DEFINITELY the non-revup plenum. The rev-up one has these large gaps on top of the individual cylinder runners, the non-rev just makes a little valley as shown in your picture.

 

I had my bumper and rasdiator support off for months rolling around the yard getting trampled by my badly behaving dogs. I only really looked once to try and find the sensor but when I didn't immediately see it I gave up. The car is too low to the ground and I need to lift it to get a decent look. I just ordered my oil cooler today so I figured when I get under the car to do that I'll get the chance to either find the sensor or know for sure that I need to order one. Big snow storm just passed where I'm at and the roads are terrible. Tons of snow and slush, hoping it clears up over the next few days.

 

As for the oil pan stuff I would just add a spacer and a cooler, cooling pans honestly make almost no difference because of how SMALL the actual lower pan is. Spacer adds VOLUME which is more important.

 

I just ordered an oil cooler today, and the Stillen oil pan is the same thing as a spacer but much neater since there's not a bunch of layers of rtv. The Stillen pan adds 1Qt oil.

Upper oil panRtvSpacerRtvLower oil pan

Vs
Upper oil panRtvStillen oil pan
only 1 layer rtv plus that pan can be drilled and tapped for turbo feed lines in the future.

 

Okay so a few updates. I have installed the oil cooler and it looks great and definitely keeps oil temps in check. I've been having trouble with that coolant pipe dripping/leaking so I finally changed it to where the pipe was cut off at the base and a plug was threaded into the hole. Unfortunately the threaded plug leaked and we ended up then welding the plug as well.

It's definitely better but still not perfect. I'm thinking about ordering a new drivers side coolant hard pipe and instead of having that bypass line go to the passenger side hard pipe having it go to the lower radiator hose by using a cupler with a 3/8" nipple or -AN8 fitting and running a short line like that.

Any ideas on how else I can get this damn thing to stop dripping/leaking when under high rpms?

I've got 2 metal gaskets AND I used silicone as well.

I've got a picture of the new pipe but I'm not home right now Ill update with pics Friday.

 

You should get a coolant pressure tester on the system then use an inspection mirror and a flashlight to see EXACTLY where it's leaking from, might just be a gasket issue.

I think the problem is whoever did the job of sealing up that pipe just didn't do a good job. Something like that can't be soldered, ideally it would be TIG welded shut (MIG if that's all you have) but you could probably also braze it.

If you MIG you'll probably have to do it twice, weld, grind flat, weld, grind flat again.

 

The coolant pipes aren't soldered, they're welded. But listen to this. So this weekend I drove 2 hours to my mom's for the new year. When I was letting the car warm up in her driveway before I was about to get on the road to go back home I noticed coolant dripping AGAIN, but this time it was from the thermostat not the drivers side pipe. I tried to tighten the 10mm bolts on the housing and they just started spinning and coolant started pouring out.

Turns out when I installed the HR thermostat to eliminate the extra water line, the HR thermostat is thicker than the DE and I used the stock bolts. There was only 1 mm of thread sticking out past the thermostat. I can't believe it even held on for this past month.

I took 3 bolts that were longer out of my plenum and used those to attach the thermostat and I haven't had any issues since then (it's only been a day).

Today I ordered the pathfinder cooling mod, silicone heater hoses, the Z1 heater hose bleeder/temperature adapter as well as a upper radiator hose temperature adapter with a 3/8" npt thread port and a 3/8" npt to 8AN fitting.

I also bought the stock coolant hard line for the drivers side.

My plan (if this drivers side pipe keeps leaking) is to install the upper radiator hose temp adapter on the Lower Radiator hose with that npt to 8an fitting. Then install the stock hard line but instead of a line across the front of the engine running a line just to that fitting off the lower radiator hose.

Will that work?

 

Lol you got LUCKY those bolts held the thermostat for that long.

I would just set up the coolant flow directions like it shows in the FSM and only do the pathfinder mod.

 

Yea I couldn't believe it either. I haven't seen any more leaking issues since I welded that plug and replaced those thermostat bolts with some bolts that will actually grab the block. But I'm going to be tearing down my entire cooling system for one last time to install all my upgrades at once.

- Pathfinder mod
- Silicone heater hoses
- Z1 heater hose bleeder / temp adapter
- Silicone radiator hoses
- 50mm thick boy radiator
- Z1 1.3 Bar Cap
- Possibly the radiator hose temp sensor adapter
- Temp gauges
Heres a pic of the new rad (propane tank for scale)

 

Don't bother with the radiator hose temp sensor, that's racecar stuff for standalone ECU's with dual stage fan control and stuff like that. All it's going to do for you is add another potential point of failure.

 

Well my original plan (if the drivers side pipe kept leaking) was ti put the OEM pipe back on and instead of tying it into the passenger side hard pipe I was going to use the radiator hose adapter cause it has a 3/8"NPT that I was going to put a 8AN fitting on. Then maybe cutting off the 4" of pipe and threading a 8AN fitting onto that so I can have a nice braided line instead of a silicone or rubber one. I still haven't decided exactly what I'm going to do, I already ordered all the parts (when the pipe was leaking like a sieve and I was pissed) so I'll have it on hand if/when I want to do it. I can't help it, OCD perfectionist in me. If I know a fitting or joint drips one drop every 30 minutes it'll bug me forever until I know its fixed. And now on top of all these coolant issues I've been having I noticed the exhaust wrap starting to fray and smoke from the GALLONS of coolant that have dripped onto it and then burnt off. Wonderful....it never ends (but I wouldn't want it to)