So I recently installed a turbo on my G35. It’s an 06 coupe MT. I noticed the valve cover leaking from the seals at the plugs so I switched it out. After getting the tune and putting it under boost, 6 psi, it spits out a ton of blue smoke. And it’s still leaking oil but I can’t find it. It’s in the rear somewhere. But only happens under boost. It leads me to believe my rings are shot and the new valve cover may be leaking. If I’m gonna fix the rings I may as well rebuild with forged internals. Question is, would the rebuild be doable with a hoist and regular tools? I’m debating how much it would cost to have someone do it for me. I’m in Virginia by VA beach. If anyone is local or knows any places on the East cost I could check out that would be great!

 

Standard set of tools, 6 point sockets for 6 point bolts, 12 point sockets for 12 point bolts. Micrometer, bottle hone, impact wrench, drill. Torque wrenches, angle head needle nose pliers, couple sizes of channel locks. Dead blow mallet, various length prybar kit

Lots of yellow or orange electrical tape and a sharpie to label everything.

Bearing specs are in the FSM.

Cheapo skinny wheel table grinder for ring gaps or a manual grinder, ring compressor, ring pliers.

Couple styles of seal pullers, flat scraper, dremel if you want to mod the block for the HR head gasket. 3 jaw puller.

Cherry picker, engine stand, strongly recommend one of those load levelers for the picker. Jackstands/service jack because the car needs to be up in the air to pull the motor easily (you need to be under it for a lot of bolts). Coolant vacuum kit for easy refill but a spill-free funnel will suffice.

If you're going straight out the front you need to remove the AC condenser which also means reclaiming the R134a, you can just pay a shop for that before you take the car to the shop for the swap. Plan on refilling the R134a afterwards. OR remove the hood and pull the engine UP through the engine bay. Personally I would discharge the AC and go straight out the front, it's easier.

 

It sounds like a ton of work but doable. I have most of the tools you’ve mentioned and anything I’m missing I can pick up along the way. I’ve looked at a few disassembly vids specifically for the RevUp motor and it talks about labeling everything as well. I thought about having different colored markers for the different bolts and of course taking tons of pictures. I’m searching through the forums and gathering all the information and ‘gotchas’ that others have encountered.

Thanks for the detailed explanation, It helps me decide on what path I’m going to take.

 

Take the bolts, lay them individually across a strip of electrical tape that's cut extra long, fold the tape back over the other side of the bolt. That way they're all taped together and the tail of the tape you write WHERE those bolts go. Use a sharpie on yellow or orange 3M super 35 electrical tape, it won't rub off and works perfectly.

 

I'm thinking I can look at the FSM for the engine and arrange the bolts by where they go and color coordinate from here. I'm thinking I am going to get the motor out in the next few months and bring it inside the garage where the heater is. Not trying to freeze my ***** off working outside in the winter.