JDM Engine Swap Prep
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Registered User
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 1
From: Texas
6MT Sedan with Bolt ons
JDM Engine Swap Prep
Hey ya'll, I ordered a JDM engine today. It should be here in about 3 weeks, i was wondering if there's anything else you guys think i should preemptively purchase for the swap.
So far i have purchased:
So far i have purchased:
- Oil and Filter
- Transmission fluid
- Nissan anti-freeze
- Spark plugs
- Ignition coils
- New belts
- Power steering fluid
- Z1 Silicone hose kit
- Z1 bleeder valve
- Z1 Poly engine mounts
- New pilot bearing
- New exhaust gaskets
- Flywheel bolts
BANNED!!!
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 14,837
Likes: 2,497
From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
Get a puller that fits into the pilot bushing if you don't already have one that you KNOW fits. I had to grind mine down a bit to make it fit because the VQ uses a fairly small inner diameter bushing. Either way test fit your puller into the new bushing to make sure it fits before the engine shows up.
Since you will have the engine out already you should replace the rear main seal, requires removing the upper oil pan (don't bother trying to do it without removing the pan if you already have the engine out it's MUCH better to remove the pan because it's pinched behind the pan). You will need a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey for this.
The exhaust gaskets are those multi-layer steel reusable ones. Don't open the new ones because you will be returning them.
Use all the existing cam and crank sensors off the motor that's still in the car since you know those sensors were all working. Save all the sensors off the donor engine to use as replacements in the future. Same thing with fuel injectors, use all your existing ones since they were known working items. Personally I would just buy new injectors and do them while the engine is out and being prepped, but it's easy enough to do those in the future as well.
Buy a new passenger/right side fuel damper, possibly also adding the Z1 fuel sandwich adapter now because it's inexpensive and useful since you will be able to read fuel pressure. I would just assume that the one you have has some high miles on it already and you won't know the condition of the donor engine one or if it's damaged since they're usually not careful about denting peripheral stuff like that when yanking out donor motors.
New O-ring for the oil filter cooler where it attaches to the block, reuse your existing oil cooler, lots of stuff like that will be different on the JDM imported engine.
Personally I use the flywheel ring gear stopper because I don't like accidentally breaking teeth off of flywheels, nor do I really like stuffing rope down the spark plug hole as a piston stop. Regardless you will need a way to prevent the engine from rotating so you can properly torque stuff like the crank pulley (which will likely be different on the JDM motor, so puller for it as well), and the flywheel. This company makes a knockoff ring gear stopper that works great and is less expensive than the OEM Kent-Moore tool, it's still a $200 ring gear stopper and as far as I'm aware there are NO OTHER OPTIONS for a ring gear stopper on a VQ engine.
https://www.freedomracing.com/j-4471...lt-st-301.html
You will also need a Torx T55 1/2" drive extended reach to get into the flywheel to torque the flywheel bolts. I use this one.
https://zspeed.com/product/t55-torx-...lywheel-bolts/
The donor engine may have different bolts but your existing one almost certaily uses those T55 torx. That's the bolts you want to reuse, don't use loctite, you apply OIL to the threads and torque to factory spec.
Print off all relevant FSM torque spec pages ahead of time so you aren't having to waste time looking up specs.
Since you will have the engine out already you should replace the rear main seal, requires removing the upper oil pan (don't bother trying to do it without removing the pan if you already have the engine out it's MUCH better to remove the pan because it's pinched behind the pan). You will need a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey for this.
The exhaust gaskets are those multi-layer steel reusable ones. Don't open the new ones because you will be returning them.
Use all the existing cam and crank sensors off the motor that's still in the car since you know those sensors were all working. Save all the sensors off the donor engine to use as replacements in the future. Same thing with fuel injectors, use all your existing ones since they were known working items. Personally I would just buy new injectors and do them while the engine is out and being prepped, but it's easy enough to do those in the future as well.
Buy a new passenger/right side fuel damper, possibly also adding the Z1 fuel sandwich adapter now because it's inexpensive and useful since you will be able to read fuel pressure. I would just assume that the one you have has some high miles on it already and you won't know the condition of the donor engine one or if it's damaged since they're usually not careful about denting peripheral stuff like that when yanking out donor motors.
New O-ring for the oil filter cooler where it attaches to the block, reuse your existing oil cooler, lots of stuff like that will be different on the JDM imported engine.
Personally I use the flywheel ring gear stopper because I don't like accidentally breaking teeth off of flywheels, nor do I really like stuffing rope down the spark plug hole as a piston stop. Regardless you will need a way to prevent the engine from rotating so you can properly torque stuff like the crank pulley (which will likely be different on the JDM motor, so puller for it as well), and the flywheel. This company makes a knockoff ring gear stopper that works great and is less expensive than the OEM Kent-Moore tool, it's still a $200 ring gear stopper and as far as I'm aware there are NO OTHER OPTIONS for a ring gear stopper on a VQ engine.
https://www.freedomracing.com/j-4471...lt-st-301.html
You will also need a Torx T55 1/2" drive extended reach to get into the flywheel to torque the flywheel bolts. I use this one.
https://zspeed.com/product/t55-torx-...lywheel-bolts/
The donor engine may have different bolts but your existing one almost certaily uses those T55 torx. That's the bolts you want to reuse, don't use loctite, you apply OIL to the threads and torque to factory spec.
Print off all relevant FSM torque spec pages ahead of time so you aren't having to waste time looking up specs.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 24
Likes: 1
From: Texas
6MT Sedan with Bolt ons
Get a puller that fits into the pilot bushing if you don't already have one that you KNOW fits. I had to grind mine down a bit to make it fit because the VQ uses a fairly small inner diameter bushing. Either way test fit your puller into the new bushing to make sure it fits before the engine shows up.
Since you will have the engine out already you should replace the rear main seal, requires removing the upper oil pan (don't bother trying to do it without removing the pan if you already have the engine out it's MUCH better to remove the pan because it's pinched behind the pan). You will need a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey for this.
The exhaust gaskets are those multi-layer steel reusable ones. Don't open the new ones because you will be returning them.
Use all the existing cam and crank sensors off the motor that's still in the car since you know those sensors were all working. Save all the sensors off the donor engine to use as replacements in the future. Same thing with fuel injectors, use all your existing ones since they were known working items. Personally I would just buy new injectors and do them while the engine is out and being prepped, but it's easy enough to do those in the future as well.
Buy a new passenger/right side fuel damper, possibly also adding the Z1 fuel sandwich adapter now because it's inexpensive and useful since you will be able to read fuel pressure. I would just assume that the one you have has some high miles on it already and you won't know the condition of the donor engine one or if it's damaged since they're usually not careful about denting peripheral stuff like that when yanking out donor motors.
New O-ring for the oil filter cooler where it attaches to the block, reuse your existing oil cooler, lots of stuff like that will be different on the JDM imported engine.
Personally I use the flywheel ring gear stopper because I don't like accidentally breaking teeth off of flywheels, nor do I really like stuffing rope down the spark plug hole as a piston stop. Regardless you will need a way to prevent the engine from rotating so you can properly torque stuff like the crank pulley (which will likely be different on the JDM motor, so puller for it as well), and the flywheel. This company makes a knockoff ring gear stopper that works great and is less expensive than the OEM Kent-Moore tool, it's still a $200 ring gear stopper and as far as I'm aware there are NO OTHER OPTIONS for a ring gear stopper on a VQ engine.
https://www.freedomracing.com/j-4471...lt-st-301.html
You will also need a Torx T55 1/2" drive extended reach to get into the flywheel to torque the flywheel bolts. I use this one.
https://zspeed.com/product/t55-torx-...lywheel-bolts/
The donor engine may have different bolts but your existing one almost certaily uses those T55 torx. That's the bolts you want to reuse, don't use loctite, you apply OIL to the threads and torque to factory spec.
Print off all relevant FSM torque spec pages ahead of time so you aren't having to waste time looking up specs.
Since you will have the engine out already you should replace the rear main seal, requires removing the upper oil pan (don't bother trying to do it without removing the pan if you already have the engine out it's MUCH better to remove the pan because it's pinched behind the pan). You will need a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey for this.
The exhaust gaskets are those multi-layer steel reusable ones. Don't open the new ones because you will be returning them.
Use all the existing cam and crank sensors off the motor that's still in the car since you know those sensors were all working. Save all the sensors off the donor engine to use as replacements in the future. Same thing with fuel injectors, use all your existing ones since they were known working items. Personally I would just buy new injectors and do them while the engine is out and being prepped, but it's easy enough to do those in the future as well.
Buy a new passenger/right side fuel damper, possibly also adding the Z1 fuel sandwich adapter now because it's inexpensive and useful since you will be able to read fuel pressure. I would just assume that the one you have has some high miles on it already and you won't know the condition of the donor engine one or if it's damaged since they're usually not careful about denting peripheral stuff like that when yanking out donor motors.
New O-ring for the oil filter cooler where it attaches to the block, reuse your existing oil cooler, lots of stuff like that will be different on the JDM imported engine.
Personally I use the flywheel ring gear stopper because I don't like accidentally breaking teeth off of flywheels, nor do I really like stuffing rope down the spark plug hole as a piston stop. Regardless you will need a way to prevent the engine from rotating so you can properly torque stuff like the crank pulley (which will likely be different on the JDM motor, so puller for it as well), and the flywheel. This company makes a knockoff ring gear stopper that works great and is less expensive than the OEM Kent-Moore tool, it's still a $200 ring gear stopper and as far as I'm aware there are NO OTHER OPTIONS for a ring gear stopper on a VQ engine.
https://www.freedomracing.com/j-4471...lt-st-301.html
You will also need a Torx T55 1/2" drive extended reach to get into the flywheel to torque the flywheel bolts. I use this one.
https://zspeed.com/product/t55-torx-...lywheel-bolts/
The donor engine may have different bolts but your existing one almost certaily uses those T55 torx. That's the bolts you want to reuse, don't use loctite, you apply OIL to the threads and torque to factory spec.
Print off all relevant FSM torque spec pages ahead of time so you aren't having to waste time looking up specs.
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