Never touched a Nissan before, but I'm learning a crap ton by the second.

Bought an 05 G35 6MT with 49k original miles with a blown motor off a guy for $3000.


He told me "a rock hit the bottom of the engine"


I fished this out of the hole. Yeah, it's toast.


So in my infinite wisdom, I looked on ebay before I bought this and saw that there are plenty of reasonable JDMs out there for ~$1400. So I figure I can have this thing going for $5k all said and done. Good deal, right?
So I tow it home and start absorbing all knowledge I can about these cars. That's when I learned that this is a "rev up" engine. Kiss the $1400 option goodbye, now we're looking at $3600. I'm over budget now before I even started.
Now I'm panicking.
Look, I really don't care about the extra 15hp of the rev up... can I put a non rev up in this puppy? Would it be a simple as swapping the ECM with it?
I thought about just replacing the busted block with a non rev up block, but I don't know if I trust these heads after such a catastrophic failure. Maybe something bent?

Can I put a non rev up in this car?

EDIT: Of course as soon as I post this, it shows me a related thread where it was already discussed. I swear I looked for that but didn't find it. Oh well. I'll leave this here anyway in case someone else has different ideas.

Thanks
p

 

UPDATE:
Ok, so I found some guys on youtube who have done this. Several videos, but here is one that gets straight to the point of what you need:
In short, you need:

• non rev up engine (duh)
• non rev up harness
• non rev up ECU
• delete NATS with your favorite flashing solution OR get nissan to reprogram for your key

I was able to corroborate this recipe with another guy on the youtubes who also did this. So I'm gonna pull the trigger and find me a non rev de. Wish me luck!
(Any tips/comments/criticism is appreciated)

 

Ok one more edit. Here's a guy who actually used his rev up harness with a non rev up motor + non rev up ecu. All he had to do was leave the exhaust cam plugs unplugged.

 

Ok last one for now. This guy explains it quite thoroughly. It's a bit pleonastic (grin), but he covers the critical concepts quite well.

 

Ok, new question. I found a de that interests me. Says it comes with ECU.
Question: does the ECU care if I have a MT or AT? I'm guessing it does.
In other words, if this engine+ecu I'm looking to buy was off of a AT, will the ECU play nice with my 6MT setup?

EDIT: Never mind. Looks like it needs to be a manual ECU.

 

New question: This thing has been sitting for 2 years. Anything I should look out for? e.g. stuck calipers? Anything I should do before attempting to start the new engine? e.g. drain fuel, new fuel filter, and...?

 

All you have is a broken lower oil pan, as long as the engine didn't run out of oil and eat bearings just put a new oil pan on it and call it good. No sense replacing the entire motor because of a cracked oil pan.

However I don't know how on earth a rock could get in at that angle to break the oil pan right there, far more likely it tossed a rod out of the block.

Yes you can backwards swap to the regular DE, you can repin the ECM harness if you don't want to buy a new one. Yes your ECM will need to be for the same transmission type or it will need to be reprogrammed as well (I think).

Personally I would just use the donor block and rebuild it to a rev-up since you already have a complete rev-up engine. Then you know it's going to work without any other complications, and you end up with a fresh motor to boot.

Even if you don't do a full rebuild, bottle hone, new rings and bearings.

The only real difference between the rev-up and non-rev is the heads, oil pump, and windage tray.

 

Thanks cleric. For completeness, I just took a quick vid of the damage that shows where I believe the block is cracked too. Not that it negates your advice. Just a little show n tell. Also, I tacked on another question about the battery terminal at the end of the vid if you don't mind. After seeing the damage more closely, what condition would you wager the heads to be in? Bearing in mind, I wasn't there when this happened so I don't know how the driver reacted.

 

Ohh yeah that wasn't a rock, likely the engine tossed a rod.

However I would still stick with doing a revup rebuild. Your heads are probably fine, the only components that are different with the revup are the heads (assembled, including cams), the oil pump (get a new one, for a revup, it's designed to spin higher rpm), and the oil sump baffle plate which MIGHT be pretty thrashed if it was a rod that failed, they tend to swing around and beat up the baffle.

Buy the normal DE engine, put your heads, new oil pump, oil baffle, and you probably would want to replace the timing chain since you will have it all apart.

Needs new head bolts, they are TTY bolts.

If the engine assembly is beyond what you feel comfortable doing then you CAN swap a bunch of other components to go backwards to the regular DE engine, personally for me it would be less work just to assemble the rev-up and not deal with swapping wire harnesses, ECM, etc.

As for the battery, that's normal, the component you are pointing at is the fusible link and it's fairly generic to work on a bunch of different Nissan applications.

 

I wouldn't blame the previous owner for thinking it was a rock though, he probably just didn't know and was upfront about the damage.

 

Yeah I agree. Looks like I need to go shopping. Oil pump, baffle, chain.. Where do you guys like to go for your parts? For example I usually go to bernardi for my honda oem needs. Nissan is new territory for me. Any recommendations?

 

Depends on if you want OEM parts or not. Z1 Motorsports usually has great prices on OEM if you're buying quite a few things, otherwise the shipping can weigh down the cost. Same with Infinitipartsonline, they are an actual dealership in Arizona.

Aftermarket there's a LOT of options, rock auto being the most popular.

 

Here's the engine I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274923297111

Question: can any of you tell by looking at the pics if the sensors are narrow or wide? Since I'm moving to non revup, I need a different ecu. Trying to figure out which ecu to buy.

IF: this engine has widebands THEN, I need a wideband ecu
IF: this engine has narrowbands THEN I need a narrowband ecu OR I can move my wides to the new engine and get a wideband ecu (right?)

I just wanna get the right ecu ordered ahead of time so it's on hand when the engine gets here. Open to other ideas of course.

 

I didn't check the listing but you can usually tell the narrow from wide band by the color of the harness, narrow band is green, wide band is black.

I wouldn't use the narrow band, limits you to a very uncommon ECM. If it has the narrow then replace them with the wideband sensors.

 

Also, I wouldn't worry about buying another ECM right now, check out this post, somewhere down near the middle-ish a user RAYGUN downgraded to the regular DE and he left quite a few details about what it entailed.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...s-z-g35-2.html

Keep in mind he was using NDS2 for this, you cannot talk to the BCM on a 2006 G35/350Z with NDS2.