03 g35 sedan overheating issue
03 g35 sedan overheating issue
so i have replaced the coolant reservoir tank, radiator, raidiator cap, thermostat, fan clutch, fan shroud and water pump have all been replaced, 0 leaks and i’m still having an over heating problem, not sure if it’s a blown head gasket
no smoke coming from the exhaust and no coolant in the oil.
heater core was bypassed so there’s no coolant bleeder valve. i’m thinking there’s air trapped in the bypass hose…any suggestions???
no smoke coming from the exhaust and no coolant in the oil.
heater core was bypassed so there’s no coolant bleeder valve. i’m thinking there’s air trapped in the bypass hose…any suggestions???
so i have replaced the coolant reservoir tank, radiator, raidiator cap, thermostat, fan clutch, fan shroud and water pump have all been replaced, 0 leaks and i’m still having an over heating problem, not sure if it’s a blown head gasket
no smoke coming from the exhaust and no coolant in the oil.
heater core was bypassed so there’s no coolant bleeder valve. i’m thinking there’s air trapped in the bypass hose…any suggestions???
no smoke coming from the exhaust and no coolant in the oil.
heater core was bypassed so there’s no coolant bleeder valve. i’m thinking there’s air trapped in the bypass hose…any suggestions???
Most likely air trapped?
Remove radiator cap when engine is cold. Start engine and let it warm up and closely observe any bubbles coming out of the radiator.
A compression test would confirm a blown head gasket.
Good luck
so thankfully it’s not a blown head gasket
it wasn’t capped off, the heater hoses still connect behind the firewall, but the hose that had the coolant bleeder valve was replaced with a random hose that they cut to size, it sits a bit higher than the radiator cap which leads me to believe there’s still air in the system
definitely want to do a pressure test to be 100% sure there’s 0 leaks
also i’ve seen people bypass the coolant lines to the throttle body, anyone knows if this helps with the temp at all?
it wasn’t capped off, the heater hoses still connect behind the firewall, but the hose that had the coolant bleeder valve was replaced with a random hose that they cut to size, it sits a bit higher than the radiator cap which leads me to believe there’s still air in the system
definitely want to do a pressure test to be 100% sure there’s 0 leaks
also i’ve seen people bypass the coolant lines to the throttle body, anyone knows if this helps with the temp at all?
No it just affects warm-up time of the engine, you want it to flow coolant through the TB in the winter but nothing wrong with blocking off that TB loop in the summer.
update
okay so update, i replaced the heater hoses with the air relief plug and bled the system and after a couple times of doing the process i was getting heat on idle and everything seemed to working perfectly, (so heater core was never removed or bypassed) took it out for a drive and the temperature didn’t move at all, as soon as i was a street away from being home the gauge started to rise so i turned on the heater and it regulated the temp once i got home, parked the vehicle and let it idle for a couple mins, 0 overheating but the coolant rez tank had expanded to the top and once cooled down most of it stayed in the tank instead of being sucked back in
so i’m guessing there’s still air stuck in the heater core somewhere
so new plan of attack
pressure test the system to make sure the system is holding pressure and if there’s no leaks use a vacuum refill tool and see how it goes from there,
also the cooling fan that is in front of the ac condenser isn’t spinning, but you can hear it click on when the ac is on but doesn’t spin, guessing it’s the motor itself, but could this fan be the cause? because the fan clutch works fine and does a good job at sucking air through the radiator but what i’m thinking is the other fan isn’t helping to cool down the engine and is obstructing airflow which allows the coolant to get hot and expand ultimately pushing it all back into the tank.
let me know what y’all think! i’m very young and want to learn about these vehicles as i go, thanks!
so i’m guessing there’s still air stuck in the heater core somewhere
so new plan of attack
pressure test the system to make sure the system is holding pressure and if there’s no leaks use a vacuum refill tool and see how it goes from there,
also the cooling fan that is in front of the ac condenser isn’t spinning, but you can hear it click on when the ac is on but doesn’t spin, guessing it’s the motor itself, but could this fan be the cause? because the fan clutch works fine and does a good job at sucking air through the radiator but what i’m thinking is the other fan isn’t helping to cool down the engine and is obstructing airflow which allows the coolant to get hot and expand ultimately pushing it all back into the tank.
let me know what y’all think! i’m very young and want to learn about these vehicles as i go, thanks!
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