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I cannot figure this damn car out, the car will not rev at all starts and idles just fine after completing a Jdm motor swap and the damn thing will not rev at all no throttle response, replaced the throttle body TWICE the TPS or APP sensor whatever you want to call it and it still remains unfunctional I’m stumped I’ve been stuck on this for 3 weeks now please help
I can’t do any of the relearns or resets because the pedal is not functional
Last edited by kooper_g; Oct 22, 2022 at 03:28 PM.
TPS and APP are two completely different sensors, one is on the throttle body of the engine, the other is your gas pedal.
Have you inspected the harnesses to make sure you don't have a bent pin?
Did you make sure to reattach the engine bonding jumper ground wire from the timing chain cover that lands on the chassis below the coolant reservoir? It's the larger gauge wire.
All 3 of your codes are the APP - Accelerator Pedal Position sensor, a.k.a. the gas pedal. Did you replace it?
Also there are recalibrations that need to be done for both the APP and TPS anytime you unplug them. The steps are in the FSM, section EC - Engine Controls under "basic service procedures".
You will also need to perform the idle air recalibration once the engine is up to temp.
TPS and APP are two completely different sensors, one is on the throttle body of the engine, the other is your gas pedal.
Have you inspected the harnesses to make sure you don't have a bent pin?
Did you make sure to reattach the engine bonding jumper ground wire from the timing chain cover that lands on the chassis below the coolant reservoir? It's the larger gauge wire.
All 3 of your codes are the APP - Accelerator Pedal Position sensor, a.k.a. the gas pedal. Did you replace it?
yes I replaced the accelerator pedal, that ground I remember actually taking a picture of it thinking “I should remember to put that back on lol” (which was put back on” I looked at that pin and it checks out so I’ll try to do what the other person said
Also there are recalibrations that need to be done for both the APP and TPS anytime you unplug them. The steps are in the FSM, section EC - Engine Controls under "basic service procedures".
You will also need to perform the idle air recalibration once the engine is up to temp.
You can't, gotta figure out why the APP isn't functioning first. You can backprobe the APP switch harness E113 and check for ground on pins 1 black/red stripe, and pin 3 black. Also check for 5vdc power on pins 6 brown/yellow stripe, and pin 4 green wire/no stripe.
If you have power and ground going INTO the APP then check for power going out of the pedal, it's easier to do this with the pedal plugged in and backprobing the harness, or backprobing the ECM harness F108. You will need the ignition ON but the engine not running.
Output will be close to 5vdc (it's like 4.5vdc at wide open throttle), APP harness E113 test pin 5 brown wire/no stripe, and pin 2 light green wire/black stripe.
If you have ground at the APP, and you have power going into and out of the APP then you need to backprobe the ECM and make sure it's getting power back from the APP, that power signal comes into ECM harness F108 on wires 106 brown wire/no stripe and pin 98 light green wire/black stripe.
I'm guessing you'll find that the APP is probably still bad. Especially if you bought it at like Oreillys or Autozone, people will frequently buy stuff like that, then change out JUST THE SWITCH instead of the entire foot pedal, then return it for a full refund since it still looks brand new...
Here's that wire diagram I pulled all the harness numbers, pin numbers, and wire colors from. It's in the FSM section EC - Engine Controls under those diagnostic trouble codes you posted earlier. Wire color chart is in section GI - General Information.
You can't, gotta figure out why the APP isn't functioning first. You can backprobe the APP switch harness E113 and check for ground on pins 1 black/red stripe, and pin 3 black. Also check for 5vdc power on pins 6 brown/yellow stripe, and pin 4 green wire/no stripe.
If you have power and ground going INTO the APP then check for power going out of the pedal, it's easier to do this with the pedal plugged in and backprobing the harness, or backprobing the ECM harness F108. You will need the ignition ON but the engine not running.
Output will be close to 5vdc (it's like 4.5vdc at wide open throttle), APP harness E113 test pin 5 brown wire/no stripe, and pin 2 light green wire/black stripe.
If you have ground at the APP, and you have power going into and out of the APP then you need to backprobe the ECM and make sure it's getting power back from the APP, that power signal comes into ECM harness F108 on wires 106 brown wire/no stripe and pin 98 light green wire/black stripe.
I'm guessing you'll find that the APP is probably still bad. Especially if you bought it at like Oreillys or Autozone, people will frequently buy stuff like that, then change out JUST THE SWITCH instead of the entire foot pedal, then return it for a full refund since it still looks brand new...
Here's that wire diagram I pulled all the harness numbers, pin numbers, and wire colors from. It's in the FSM section EC - Engine Controls under those diagnostic trouble codes you posted earlier. Wire color chart is in section GI - General Information.
power held 5v on yellow brown positive and nothing on green :/
solid black had great continuity black and red wouldn’t take a reading :/
what is my next step? I should mention the car was sitting in a field for quite some time and a mouse nest was present in the trunk, is it possible for them to have chewed some wires?
Test for power/ground on those bad wires directly at the ECM. The pin numbers are shown on that diagram (83, 91, 98 for sensor2).
If you DONT have power at the ECM you might have a bad ECM. If you DO have power and ground at the ECM then you have damaged wires going back to the APP, cut/splice and pull a new circuit through the dash, just make sure you unplug the battery before doing this and double check to make sure it's the correct wires.
If your car doesn't have that exact same F108 connector when post the year and sedan/coupe and I'll look it up for you if you can't find the diagram. There are 3 different F108 harnesses depending on the chassis and year.
Test for power/ground on those bad wires directly at the ECM. The pin numbers are shown on that diagram (83, 91, 98 for sensor2).
If you DONT have power at the ECM you might have a bad ECM. If you DO have power and ground at the ECM then you have damaged wires going back to the APP, cut/splice and pull a new circuit through the dash, just make sure you unplug the battery before doing this and double check to make sure it's the correct wires.
If your car doesn't have that exact same F108 connector when post the year and sedan/coupe and I'll look it up for you if you can't find the diagram. There are 3 different F108 harnesses depending on the chassis and year.
2003 g35 coupe 6speed
the pin out #s you listed are different colors on the ECU harness from the tps plug in I had to check as I didn’t know what numbers were ground and positives and didn’t want to misread or potentially fry something if possible and noticed that they weren’t the same colors
@cleric670 can you dumb this diagram down for me 😂, I don’t understand it I just want to know which number on ECU and to test for either ground or power
Ok on ECM harness F108 (which is different in this picture compared to the previous) you're looking for ground on pin 66 white/red stripe. Power out to both halves of the TPS are on pin 47 black/no stripe. The return signal which will be between 1 and 5vdc depending on the sensor1 or sensor2 (it won't be the same value, they are inverse, one scales 1-5vdc, the other scales 5-1vdc) will be found on pin 50 white/no stripe for sensor1 and pin 69 red/blue stripe for sensor2.
At the TPS / throttle body harness F31 (same harness) ground is pin 5 white/red stripe. Power in is pin1 black/no stripe. Power out is pin4 white/no stripe for sensor1 and pin2 red/blue stripe for sensor2.
