Really appreciate if anyone can shed light on this.
I have a series 2 V35 Nissan Skyline 2004 Sedan 5spd auto 3.5L (same as G35)

Car has been in limp mode for months with the mechanics I've seen finding nothing. The throttle body only opens 10% and there is no power/ throttle response. Before I knew any better the first mechanic told me my gearbox was dead so I replaced that with one from wreckers, Then they told me it was the throttle body so I replaced that myself with one off ebay. Still in limp mode. Other mechanics told me it was likely the ecu itself to I took it to a guy with a better scanner that rebuilds/repairs ecu's and he told me that 100% it is not the ecu so the fault codes I am now getting are

ABS C1131 ENGINE SIGNAL 2
ENGINE P1121 ETC ACTR
TRANSMISSION P1705 TP SENSOR

I suspect that C1131 is not so much an error but some sort of fail-safe triggered by P1121/P1705 ?
I am wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a Nissan OEM throttle body from a dealer as I have been told the Hitachi ones fof ebay aren't always up to scratch?

Is there anything else I should look at with these fault codes ?

 

Sounds like it's time for a trip to the dealer for a diagnostic. As much as I hate the dealership, sometimes it's your best option.

 

Both those codes are throttle body related, one is the actuator motor, the other is the throttle position sensor. I'd check the wiring and harness for damage since it's unlikely they both crapped out at the same time but you probably just need a new throttle body...

If some gorilla "mechanic" has been opening and closing the butterfly valve by hand then they probably stripped the delicate gears inside the throttle actuator.

 

Actually... I'm betting no one did the recalibration steps after removing the throttle body. Here's a link you can do it yourself, use a watch so you can accurately count seconds and do ALL the recalibration sequences starting from the top.

If you don't think it worked then do that one over again.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g35-350z-ecu-reset-procedure.html

Also ditch that mechanic, there's no reason for them to suggest you needed a new transmission so they basically stole money from your pocket. The dealership charges a fair hourly rate for diagnostics and then you can decide how to proceed with repairs once you know EXACTLY what the problem really is.

 

I replaced the throttle body myself after the non-nissan mechanic workshop replaced my transmission. My mistake trusting they knew what they were doing - did not take the car back to those fkrs. I did not touch the valves as I had read about not touching them. I tried the throttle reset but could not get it to work. I had previously gotten the manual error code function to work so I gave up as I thought the ecu was faulty at this point.

I thought the idle air and throttle reset could be done directly by a scanner tool which made this step redundant - is this correct ? Wondering now if it still has to be done.

 

They can be done with Consult-II yes but WAS it done? If it hasn't been calibrated yet then the ECU has no idea what position the throttle actuator is in and will stay in limp mode until calibrated.

Idle air needs to be performed with the engine at operating temperature.

 

Thanks for your help

Ok so last night I took the car out to warm it up and then unplugged the battery and pumped the brake half a dozen times. I then went thru the relearn procedures and whilst these have worked for me before I could not get the CEL to blink to indicate it was accepting the update. I did it with stopwatch and it would not work. This gives me 3 possibilities-
1. The ECU is not operating correctly - unlikely as the ecu tech was able to wipe all the codes and they did not come back at power on - only once the engine was started which means the ecu is detecting some operating fault
2. The pedal sensor is faulty ? - this would make the relearn procedure not work but the way this one operates as it was explained to me the car would not start and run in limp mode if this sensor was faulty
3. I messed up the relearn - unlikely as I've done it before and it worked

Any other options ?

I called a couple of Nissan dealers here in Australia and they want $1270 for a new throttle body so that option is out... I will have to check the wreckers for another body after I check the harness in the daylight.

 

If you're 100% certain you were performing the procedure correctly and you couldn't get the check engine light to come on for any of the procedures I would DEFINITELY look into a different pedal switch. The switch can be purchased separately from the entire pedal assembly but if you can get the whole thing from a junkyard it will probably be cheaper.

 

The switch is two rheostat switches, it's only sends an error code if one or the other has an open or shorted circuit, it's entirely possible for it to fail without a diagnostic trouble code.

It can be tested with a digital multimeter and a battery holder for 3x AA batteries in series to provide the ~5 volts, you can measure the voltage on the other side of each switch to see if the.voltage scales from 1 to 5 volts as you press the pedal down.

 

Ok, so I pulled the accelerator assm out and tested with 3x1.5v batteries and found it only ran from .5v to 2.7v one way and less the other side of the pot. Went to a wreckers yesterday and swapped the pedal assm and then swapped the throttle body for good measure.
I still cannot get the manual reset/idle relearn to work. No matter if I try to 7sec pause or the 10sec pause (different websites quote different times) I do not get the CEL blinking which I have been able to do previously.

The car is running better than it has been but is still not right. Instead of smoothly changing it now revs all the way out to about 5k before it upshifts.
I will drive it for a few days and then go see someone with a scanner to see if any codes have come back. So far no CEL or TC warning lights today after 40min drive to work.

Wife doesnt want me to put more dollars into the car but I'm over a barrel as nobody would but it the way it drives.

 

what was the fix?

 

P1121 - bad throttle body control actuator, don't work the butterfly plate by hand or you damage the gear inside.

P1705 - bad throttle body position sensor (part of the throttle body).

C1131 - VDC control module reporting the engine throttle body is malfunctioning.

This is either a bad throttle body, damaged harness, or damaged wires back to the ECM. Inspect and repair as needed.

 

Did you end up finding what the issue was for this? I've been having a very similar issue with my throttle body and peddle sensor (2004 V35 300GT). Both replaced by mechanic, incapable of getting the Throttle Body relearn procedures correctly done (done it over 50 times with many variations). 2 mechanics seen, both unable to find a fix except for suggesting replacing both parts brand new (over $2000 and 2 months delivery from Japan) which isn't a guaranteed fix either. I am absolutely struggling to find a solution to this seemingly small engine problem.

 

You can do the "pedal dance" to recalibrate it yourself, use a stopwatch so the seconds counts are exact. Should be able to just follow these steps here.