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Anyone had any problems w/ Pulley sets?

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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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ainsley's Avatar
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Question Anyone had any problems w/ Pulley sets?

I called my local shop to ask about installing my new Unorthodox Racing SS Pulley/Belt Set. The guy cautioned me on things like the A/C not working great and engine overheating in stop-and-go traffic. Have any of you folks had theseor other problems? I've noticed a lot of G owners seem to have done that mod, and I assume you wouldn't if your engine overheated...
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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hey ya

Though it hasn't been really hot yet, the A/C is fine. The underdrive is only 15% from stock. It is really more of the wieght loss on the crank that gives thge improvement.
I think they even have a standard size pully at Unorthodox, so you only get the lightend effect.

As far as overheating, not on this car. The water pump is driven by the internal timing chain, so the cooling is the same, in fact a little better cuase it isn't working as hard to turn the A/C, P/S, and alternator.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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Thanks man! Good to know.

I'm still pondering the driveability and engine wear issues, but I at least wanted to make sure the A/C would work since Central Texas will soon be getting into the 100s all the way through September!

I just got done reading all 11 pages of the thread about UR underdrive pulleys and their effect on the engine (started reading a few hours ago). I haven't seen an epic battle like that since Gettysburg or Braveheart.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 06:02 PM
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hehehe, well there is a lot to read there, there is also a good deal of misinformation, or half info.

In short, many engines have a fully dampend pulley. that is to say the center collar is attched to the pulley by a 'rubber' disk/connection. So the entire weight of the pulley is buffered/dampend to the crank.

The G is different than I have ever seen. Only a small piece of the pulley (the rear section that drives the A/C) is dampend. The main weight of the pulley is solid to the crank.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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I have had my full UR set on for a almost 2 years. No problems and the oil analysis shows very low wear metals. Just make sure you install it correctly. Follow the directions exactly or have the dealer do it. A misaligned or overtightened pulley is the main source of problems with this mod. The pulleys are very true from the factory, but can be tweaked or distorted if not installed right.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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Thanks! Good advice. I'm definitely having the dealer do it. Intake and plenum are the extent of my mechanical abilities.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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Ainsley have you had any luck with getting it installed? I called Austin Infiniti and the Service guy was cool and commented he talked to someone about a day or so ago and pointed them in the direction of Japanese autotech to do the install and I called their and got the same thing someone else had called and they gave an estimate of 2 hours. email me with who you are having it done by and what they are charging you if you could. leethl@sbcglobal.net Thanks
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 06:49 PM
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2 hours ? damn they be slow. I did it my garage in an hour and was taking smoke breaks and BSing with my Daughters Boyfriend....
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 08:29 PM
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Sickone so would you say it is a fairly easy install. I am fairly mechanically inclined, I do most of my work on my cars but did not know what exactly was needed to put one of these on. I do have a MT and have seen that you put it in gear and put your foot on the brake to keep the motor from turning over but that is it. what about putting on the belts any problems. any tricks or tips you care to share. any help would be appreciated. Thanks Lee
 
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Old Apr 14, 2005 | 12:53 AM
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Grab the write up E_K did, he did an outstanding job.

With the MT you don't have the issues with loosening or tightening the bolt.
It was pretty straight forward...

1) remove the belly cover
2) loosen the crank bolt
3) crack loose the 14mm bolts in the center of the two tensioner wheels (don't remove just loosen)
4) loosen the 2 12mm tensioners from the bottom
5) remove the belts
6) remove the crank pulley (wiggle slightly while pulling straight back)
7) make sure the new pulley is clean, put some anti-sieze on the inside and carefully position it and push it on (careful in the sense that you don't want to knock the key out of place on the crack, but this shouldn't be an issue)
8) tighten the crank bolt as recommended... I would suggest that if you don't have a torque wrench go spend 10 bucks on a basic one at the local auto store.
9) put your new belts on, tighten up the tensioners, and the center bolts on the wheels/pulleys. The only other tip is then start your engine, run it for a minute, then check your belts. The multi-V belts often don't seat just right, and after you run it for a minute you will find they are loose. Better to find out right away beforee you put the belly plate back on...
 
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Old Apr 14, 2005 | 01:28 PM
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Thanks for the Instructions Sickone.
 
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