copbait: the point is that in a 6MT as you have there are much easier ways for folks doing the work at home.

On the 5AT that isn't true, by all means enlighten us. What is the safer easier way ???
If you are reffering to jamming a pry bar into tranny access... that is the worst way of all. So other than the methods I described (factory recommened) there are no other options I am aware of, or can find on any boards. The thread you are referring to is the one about using a prybar in the tranny access, and man if you want to do damage - that is the method to use.

I didn't say you hadn't looked, (of course you are the one that suggested leveraged leg presses which are useless on an AT) I suggested that I sure can't see how the thing would go flying through the radiator and in general see a lot of folks list problems or possible problems that really don't make sense. The comment was not specifically directed at you. (again - please enlighten us).

If a person has huge concern about the engine catching/firing and sending things flying
then unplug the 6 ignition coils prior to doing this to insure it is the starter only.

 

sorry pdjafari, my box is cleared out now

 

No I am not talking about jamming anything with a crowbar, I can't remember the post I think it was on My350 but someone just borrowed a crank holder from a local dealership for the install and it wasn't too bad. That may be the same factory method you are referring to I don't know but it sounds like a pretty safe option.

 

I think you're talking about using a chain wrench to secure the pulley while it is being unbolted.

 

Copbait - it may be someone borrowed a crank lock. that would be a bit odd, mechanics don't like to lend tools - but a buddy might do that.

These are basically things that grab 2 of the flywheel (or torque converter) teeth about 1 - 1.5 inches apart and bolt into the starter motor bolt.

Anyone old enough to have every removed a flywheel on an Old VW is very familiar with the concept (unless they had big *** air tools) on that puppy you need a good 4 - 6 foot bar - it was torqued at like 280lbs or something.

E_K, I thought about that appoach, using a belt to protect the pulley, and a chain wrench/visegrip. But once I looked and put the bar in place - I was more than happy to do it that way.

At any rate, hopefully we have given enough info, appropriate cautions, and good direction to those looking to do this.
That is what the board is all about.....

 

Yea I'm sure you probably couldn't just walk into any random dealership and have them lend you tools. It definitely helps to have a good relationship with the service people, as painful as the thought might be sometimes

 

heheheh With my trusty Honda, I used to bring cases of beer and coupons for dinner out, and such to the service advisor. It was so worth it....

This is the first time in years I have done everything myself for my car..

 

So is that crank pulley bolt that impossible to remove? Is it really so tight that you need to force the engine to turn it out. WOW. Hoping to order mine soon. Just don't tell the wifey... HEHEHE.

quick off topic Q&A:

If you just had $250 to spend, would you get the plenum spacer, the crank pulley, or something else all together. Assuming you already have a Z tube with pop charger.

 

I would absolutely go with the plenum spacer, no question, no doubt....

 

Well after about 2 hours...finally finished install. Few things which I noticed that I will mention.

1. UR pulley was somewhat of a b1tch to get back on, could only get it on the shaft about .25 inches. I was 100% sure the groove was lined up as well.
2. The UR pulley didnt sit COMPLETELY flush but was juuust about seated as far back as i could get it (belts all lined up perfect so it must be far enough back.)
3. The hardest part for me was NOT removing OEM pulley...it was tightening the bolt back up...I attempted E_K's method w/ the hose clamps.

Its sad but in the 7-8 years I've worked on cars I have never used a freakin torque wrench. Either I destroyed my dads $300 snapon or I simply had no clue what I was doing. I set the dial to the recommended torque settings based on UR's instructions which was like 29-36 lb/ft. I tightened the bolt and as it tightened the hose clamps would sloolwy inch up and the crank would move with my tightening movement which was frustrating. I tightened and figured the torque wrench would impeed my progress once I reached 29-36 ft/lbs, but it did not. So i thought I either 1. dont know how to use the damn thing or 2. I broke it. So I decided to tighten the thing as far as I could and eventually after I couldnt budge it any further, the hose clamps started to break off. Regardless, install was finished but I will probably swing by somewhere to see if they can torque it up correctly as the last thing I want is to have my crank pulley go flying off leaving me stranded. On a scale of 1-10 10 being an expert mechanic I rate myself a 6 but this install was a real B1TCH!! The torque wrench I used was about 3 maaaybe 4 feet long and weighed about 5 lbs (heavy) so I think I tightened it up far enough NOT to have to worry about it as I put all my 5'11'' 180 lbs into it (and I know im prob. gonna catch hell b/c I didnt use specified specs, o well...)

Started her up, no squeaks/squacks or any type of 'rough' idling. Very VERY smooth and the car feels lighter...cant really describe it. Seems as though the accelerator pedal reacts quicker and the car is more hyper. Can FEEL the difference...but again am a bit worried about torque settings on the bolt which is why i might take it in somewhere to get it double checked. Are there any signs of a loosening crank bolt?? I cant really think of anything other than the pulley falling off w/ all the belts leaving you dead in the water...but if there are tell tale signs to look out for...thatd be good to know!

 

Congrats on the install.

I had no problems getting the UR pulley on. I put some oil on the shaft, so maybe that helped. Mine sits flush. Maybe you can take a pic of how it sits.

The hose clamps idea was the best I could come up with short of a chain wrench. Again, my car's been fine for 20K miles. If you notice a change in idle quality in the future, keep the idea of possible loosening of the crank bolt in mind.

 

if you snapped/broke the hose clamps tightening it - then it is tight enough.

The starting torque of ~32ftlbs is only the foirst step, then turn it 60 more degrees
(which was about ~90ftlbs on mine)

 

awesome guys,

I will open up the rear panels after i get off tonite and DEF. post pics to see what you guys think. Even though I know I tightened it good enough, Im still paranoid. Again the belts lined up perfectly although it was tough trying to get the new pulley on even after having added a generous amount of the anti-seize compound all around the shaft.

Will post pics tonite guys so let me know if you think its sitting far back enough!!

Thanks!

 

You do want to check for burrs prior to putting the new one on, but it is a tight fit.

I think I know what you are reffering to about "it looks like it is not all the way in"
The stock pulley has more of edge (toward the crankcase) than UR pulley. This is one of the reasons you can get the hose clamps in to use as tightening method. So there is more 'air' or space between the crankcase and the UR pulley than the stock.