Hey guys,

Just received my crank pulley and will be installing tomorrow. For the past week have been reading and rereading install instructions both on this site and my350z.com to know what to look out for etc. The one question I had while trying to picture it in my head is one method for removing the OEM pulley on a 5AT. I read a thread by E_K provided to me by Sickone regarding putting wrench w/ 24'' breaker bar in the 5 o clock position and 'turning over' the car (but not starting) and letting the engine break loose the bolt on its own. My only question is since I have also read the crank pulley bolt is a standard thread (lefty loosey, right tighty) in the 5 o clock position you will need to turn the handle counter clockwise to open (to the left) towards the passenger side. HOWEVER, IF the breaker bar is placed in the 5 o clock position (standing in the front of the car at 5 o clock) when the engine turns wont this TIGHTEN the bolt rather than loosen it???

If you picture it in your head mentally, the bolt must turn LEFT as in counter clockwise, therefore the breaker bar needs to move UP and should be placed in the 7 o clock position, not 5 o clock...unless im picturing it WRONG mentally...

If someone can verify this method for me Id be very grateful!! I simply need to know as I may try this method as a last resort in case the bolt simply will not come off using brute force...and am having trouble seeing it open using the breaker bar at 5 o clock and turning over the car method....

Thanks guys!!

 

I wouldn't try the engine turnover trick, too risky. Just get yourself setup so you can do leveraged leg presses on the breaker bar and you will get it off.

 

I can verify it, as I did it....

By the way an 18" bar is good enough.

The engine turns clockwise (if you are standing in front)
So with the bar at 5 o'clock the bolt stays stationary, the engine goes clockwise.
this is equiv to the engine being held still and the bolt being turned counter clockwise (lefty loosey)....

Copbait... you'd be wrong... he has an AT not an MT, no way to hold the engine.... well you could special order a Torque converter lock from Infinity, remove the starter, and lock the engine. You could strip the front end - grill fans, radiator, and use air tools... or you could do what E_K describes...

Though I am sure it strikes you a little odd, I really don't see anything risky.
A standard short 6 wall 19mm socket on a solid breaker bar, stays very snuggly.

Even if the engine turns overs, the bolt spins free, it's not like stuff starts flying off.

The impact applied to the bolt, crank, etc is no different than using a air wrench (one of the factory recommended options)

 

Hay Sickone You got to admit that does seem a little back yard. I believe there is a way to lock the flywheel down on an AT. But hell it worked who cares. I USED a 18" breaker bar with the help of my floor jack handle on my 6mt and it worked great. I believe there is a thread on Fresh alloy about how to lock down the flywheel on an AT. I bet the back yard style is a bit faster. Your the man Kev.

 

Interesting...so the engine spins clockwise and as the bar hits the ground from a start at 5 o clock....since the bolt is turning clockwise, once the breaker bar hits the ground it'll no longer be able to spin clockwise and loosen. I will try an attempt to jam something in their to prevent it from moving while trying to loosen...but i have a feeling the turn over method will prob. end up being my only means to get the bolt off.

thanks guys...i'll try my best to get it off w/o that method...but just in case its good to know...

 

Sickone, so I take it you got the pulley installed without a prob.

Anyway, the method I described was mentioned by several people on my350z.com. I didn't come up with that idea, but you do place the bar at 5 oclock. I merely tried it on my own car, and it worked without difficulty. Please be careful if any of you try this, and I'm not responsible if anyone messes up.


There's also a way to lock the crank on the AT by placing a metal rod into the transmission access panel. But that has the possibility of bending the flywheel equivalent on the AT. One my350z member installed his pulley in this fashion, and had some problems afterwards, which may or may not be due to a warped flywheel.

Incidentally, I've got about 20K miles on the car since the pulley install without any problems. The car's as smooth as ever.

 

E_K,

does the danger/risk in this method lie in the fact that the bar/socket may not be completely on the bolt as its being opened and perhaps causing the bolt to strip and never be opened?? What other elements of risk would you say are associated besides the bar flying off the engine??

TIA

 

If you get the correct size for the socket, it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm not an expert on this, but my guess is that it's not good for the starter to crank the engine against this resistance. But that's why my plan was to do this once, and then never do that again.


I placed plastic garbage containers around the car when I cranked the engine, just in case something flew off. But nothing happened aside from the pulley bolt loosening up.

If you don't feel comfortable doing this, then that's ok. Take it to a mechanic for the install.

 

E_K - yep installed without issue or hassle... I think it was about an hour, if that.

I put the breaker bar on, and used it to turn the engine (only a tad) so it was on the ground... you don't want it to 'Slam' the ground when you crank, it should already be at the ground. If it slams it might pop off the bolt.

As far as sticking a pry bar in and jamming the Torque converter plate... now that would be stupid - I would never do that.

 

I've read there is a way to lock the flywheel on an AT, can't remember the thread but it's out there somewhere.

The risks could be many, things could pop apart or come loose like maybe the wrench and get shot outwards busting apart your radiator and who knows what else, or maybe you do the bonehead move and put the wrench on the wrong side and you end up with a new hood ornament. Sure it probably works most of the time but I'd rather not fool around with that kind of power, but hey if you feel comfortable with it then go for it. I just wasn't willing to risk possibly thousands in damage if there was a much safer way =)

 

I am actually running searches for a pulley holder tool...a tool with a specialized head that can attach/secure the pulley while you loosen/break the bolt w/ the socket/wrench...however am not sure if one exists for our infiniti/nissan VQ...

I am also curious E_K and or Sickone in regards to the method employed for tightening the crank bolt once the new pulley is installed: using the two hose clamps as a chained link method. Can you not also use this method to break the bolt loose?? Chain together two metal hose clamps through a hole in the OEM pulley (if in fact there is one someplace?)??

 

Hey ya,

the methods for holding the crank are
1) (really stupid, don't do this) a pry bar in the tranny access, you are very likely to damage Torque converter and/or mounting plate
2) the infiniti flywheel lock - p/n is in the manual somewhere (this is the best way for sure if you want to order and wait for it)

It didn't appear to me you'd get the hose clamps on the stock pulley, the way it sits on the engine.

As far as the wrench going flying....
- copbait suggests "if you put the wrench on the wrong side" well then you should NOT be wrenching on your engine... this is no different than the bozo who gets a 400lbs air impavt wrench and has it set to tighten and snaps the bolt... if you are not qualified, then you are not qualified.

The wrench going flying through the radiator, etc.... damn guys look at the car
The suggested method (you will see if you actuall do it, or have done it) is really very effective.
You put the wrench in place, if you are worried put a piece of plywood or something in front of the radiator and a something on top...

But to to start listing all the things that could go wrong, when you haven't done it, or looked at it....

I admit, I was a bit bothered by the idea. I thought about ordering the infiniti flywheel lock and waiting to do it, I though about stripping the front end and using air tools to remove it. THEN I ACTUALLY LOOKED AT THE JOB !!! and set the wrench in place, and at that point had absolutely no doubt the suggested method was a great idea, and also the quickest way to do it.

Though I have not made my living as a grease monkey for 25 years, and have read some suggested methods for doing things on these boards that make me want to puke.
I take my $40k car that is only 4 months old pretty damn seriously, and I assure you if I had any doubt, I would have stopped, and ordered the flywheel lock or stripped the front end.

I can't speak to anyone else ability, or common sense... but I would suggest this

- Remove the lower plasic engine cover (even with hand tools this is a 10 minute job)
- get the breaker bar and a 19mm 6 wall (don't use a 12 point) socket. set it in place
as suggested.... then make a determination if you are comfortable.

 

How could I not have looked at it when I have actually done the mod myself? I am very familiar with the crank install and have even spoken with UR directly about some aspects of the install. I considered the starter blip method but in the end decided against it, I don't care how many people have successfully used it.

All I am saying is that there is a risk to doing it that way, whether you care to admit it or not. I was just not willing to take the risk when there are much safer alternatives. You know what they say about people making assumptions...

 

pdjafari, let us know which method you employed once you do get it installed!

 

^ will do...

BTW sickone, your PM inbox is FULLL!!