I think the electric seats weigh a fair bit. It will save a significant amount of weight without much discomfort. If you are willing to go further, consider the removal of the airbags. Sounds dumb but for those not too concerned with safety it does save a fair bit of weight. Each airbag module weighs close to 12 pounds. The point about the removal of the airbag is that it does not compromise daily driving or luxury.

 

1. take interior panels off~!!
2. leave only driver's seat
3. air bag module
4. cut off all skeleton structure after taking off panels off.. (a lot of metals to cut out)
5. takecenter console off
6. take out carpet
do we need to go on? anything that you are not using or planning on using.. get rid of it~!!!

 

Does anyone think the weight of the spare tire 'helps' for traction over the rear wheels?

Just a thought. I was thinking of ditching the spare, and using one of the Continental Tire compressors that injects tire sealant. Weighs about 7 bls.
I need to still find out if the sealant makes the tire repair more difficult. Some mechanics complain about the use of sealants.
JCWhitney sells one real cheap but uses Fix a Flat, think I would avoid that one.
Of course the compressor will offer no rear impact protection.

 

I was having my car serviced at the dealer a while back and asked about using tire sealant and the adviser told me that it will ruin the tire pressure sensors. Has anyone else heard differently?

 

Continental claims it does not in their system:

http://www.conti-online.com/generato...ty/cck_en.html

 

Just gut the entire car and sit on a bean bag while you drive.!!!

 

One day, I'd love to remove all of the panels and start removing weight from the structure. Nothing as intensive as the Opera Performance S2000, but along those lines in terms of unseen weight reduction.

I'm really not looking for much. Wheels, battery, flywheel, possibly a CF driveshaft and perhaps seats at some point (for better fit as well). Any aftermarket parts have been lighter than OEM so far. Aside from these basics, which could be the equivalent of dropping at least 300lbs (200 of which is calculated rotaional mass that shows a lower static-weight loss), I'd be really happy to find another 100 lbs or so in the structure.

Dropping 200lbs static-weight and a total of about 400lbs (including rotational) from a hardtop 6MT (no prem., no nav.), such as mine, would get it much closer to that 3000 lb weight at which it would feel so much better. Aside from seats and wheels, which can be very much a style/design mod, there's really nothing that would show the weight loss... ...much less the gutted interior people seem to immediately imagine when they hear weight-loss and G Coupe in the same sentence.

Dropping weight from the coupe is a reasonable desire, and there are reasonable ways to do it without ever impacting the daily-driver luxuries or luxury appearance that the OEM G has.

For those wondering just where my estimates come from, my conservative figures are below:

Wheels/Tires: 120 lbs total rotational (I figured a static-weight savings of 3lbs over the OEM 19" combo for an aftermarket 19" combo. 3x10 = 30 x 4 = 120 lbs rotational. The OEM 19 is light, but a 3lb loss is still conservative. Personally, I'll be looking at 5lb/wheel.)

Battery: 15 lbs (An Optima will go in soon, as I'm sure the OEM battery won't last much longer. I'm pretty certain I recall the loss being more, but 15 is good enough.)

Flywheel: 50 lbs total rotational (NISMO is 8lbs less static-weight than OEM, which is twice as heavy as most lightweights. Using the same rule of thumb as for wheels, 8 x 10 = 80, so a 50lb rotational-weight loss should be conservative enough.)

Carbon Fiber Driveshaft: 75 lbs total rotational (This is a bit of an unkown at this point, but it should be safe to assume that a CF driveshaft would save around 10 lbs over the OEM driveshaft. Same rotational-weight calculation suggest that a 75 lb rotational-weight loss is conservative enough.

Seats: 40 lbs total (I do believe it's more savings than this, depending on which aftermarket seat you go with, but still trying to remain conservative. 20lbs each for 40 total.

That's 300 lbs total, with nearly 250lbs being from rotational losses that are either unseen or look better than OEM, or both. Another 100-150 lbs static-weight from the structure would hit the 150-200 lbs static-weight loss with the overall feel of dropping 400 lbs. Enought to be significant in every area other than appearance... ...which is exactly my goal.

 

^^^ nice plan.... What about a painted carbon fiber hood though, the G's hood feels like it weighs at least 20-30 lbs.

 

I considered it, but I think it's only something like 10lbs for the hood, 5lbs for the trunk. I'd rather wait and chase those down within the structure. Of course, if I'm ever in need of replacing those, due to damage, I'll go for CF and paint them.

 

that's actually a good idea!

 

i wanna know exactly why the G keeps getting heavier from year to year. how can i cut the weight to a 2003 level?

 

buy a 2003.5

2003.5 > *

 

FFR with a 392stroker adn 150shot of nitrous > civic

650RWhp @ 2000lbs > 4705whp @ 2200

 

as everyone knows, i am the king of weight reduction on every car i drive. i have had a G sedan and currently have a G coupe and Z . my Z when it was NA weighed 2780 with both seats in, full AC, radio, and all the panels in the cab still remaining. this allowed me to run 12.9s @ 106 all day with 256 hp to the wheels with just a couple bolt ons. there is sooo much weight on these cars that can be removed. i just got a box, started taking everything apart and getting rid of extra metal brackets, panels, etc. the whole back of the Z was gutted.

i bought the G with a sleeved , greddy tt motor in it, the G weighed in at 3600 pounds without me in it, i decided to yank out the motor and swap it into the Z, then the Z weighed 2920 and is about to have A LOT of hp. i now have a full chromoly 8 point cage in, fuel cell, but still have AC and radio in there. i will weigh it soon.

some tips for weight removal on your car, some are extreme but some will work for the everyday driver...

first off, the battery, it weighs right over 40 pounds, you can get an odyssey or braille which both weigh right over 10 pounds. give or take a few. this will save you close to 30 pounds.

rims and tires are always the best way to shave lots of weight (unsprung weight at that) what ever you save each tire, multiply it four times. so less ten pounds wheel/ tire combo will get you 40 pounds of unsprung weight!!

lightweight coil springs/ coilovers will save you a few pounds as well.

nissan loves to use a lot of brackets, i have taken off useless brackets sooo many times and filled up a bucket with them, these brackets can be steel welded up under the dash, to the ecu bracket, to tranny wiring harness brackets, to bose amp brackets, there are soooo many that can be removed without sacrificing anything really. especially the stock wiring harness, i bet it has 40 brackets that hold it on everywhere.

stock heated seats weigh 49 driver and 47 passenger, some nice racing seats will let you remove another 20 pounds each seat. thats 40 total

i shaved 40 pounds by taking out the airbags, all of them, roof , module, dash, and steering wheel and replacing the stock wheel with a lightweight momo.

factory seat belts replaced with harnesses when adding a cage will save a few more pounds.

i removed 30 pounds out plus less strain on the motor by removing the entire power steering system. at first i thought it was a bit hard to steer, now i wouldnt have PS for the world

bumper reinforcements with bracets weigh in at right over 20 each, front and back. another 40 pounds.

if you are into drag racing only the front sway weighs 20 pounds and is not needed.

AC components weigh right over 55 pounds for all the parts added together.

some of these are very extreme and i know this, i just thought i would share....

 

Like someone else said, go to the gym and run 2 hours a day for a month and drop 30lbs, definately a cheap way to do some weight reduction lol