Sorry, answered my own question. I have to ship it out...

Not sure how much good it would do with helping the soft launch. Can't change the shift points, just the rev limiter.

 

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/ DaveO has this unit.

http://www.levelten.com/ this is an East Coast shop that can do the valve body and converter.

For the price of an exhaust that makes lots of noise but little power, this is a true performance UPGRADE.

BTW, don't let the wet blankets dissuade you from further investigation. You should speak to someone who has actually done the mod to help with your decision rather than someone driving a basically stock car who bashes every bolt-on available. (but is a self-described EXPERT)

 

I would change out the ring & pinion with one of those ring & pinion kits from 350Evo. Acceleration will be greatly improved, and if you would be interested in doing some track days, gearing will definetly help with corner entry and exit speeds.

Level10 is widely trusted. I bought a few of my transmission goodies for my Buick T-Type and, I was very pleased with their products.

 

Level Ten doesn't have a good wrap and I strongly question a transmission company that rates tranny components in HP, not TQ. "Handles 800hp" is meaningless to me because F1 cars make 800hp, but only a measley 300tq in comparision. What about a 300hp turbo diesel that makes 600 ft/lbs of torque? Transmissions are rated in torque, not HP.

Precision Industries (PI) or Yank are the only outfits I know of that make truely dependable and effiecent TCs. This is from my experience with Stangs, Regal/20th Annv TA, and F-Bodies. Check out PI's website (http://www.converter.com) for all the answers you need to know like selecting the correct stall speed. The problem with getting a TC for a JATCO 5AT in the G35 is that no one has these TCs stocked. You must send yours in for modification. Unfortunately, it isn't a core swap program like PI has for the Lexus GS400/Supra. I'm not some "wet blanket" trying to tell you what to do. I'm telling you what to expect. Some people talk and some people know.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm reading up on TC's. Defenitily going to talk to PI.

So if I have PI modifiy the TC, should it solve my problem with soft launch? I'm thinking about doing this mod and leaving the valve body alone. Does this make sense?

 

Keep "talking" and someone will believe you.

Sigh.. How many times do we have to go through this. This is not a 'Stang forum.....this is not an f-body site.....and this is most certainly not Maxima.org.

Name a source for a "crappy converter" for our cars, please. I'd love to know some sources to avoid...and so would everyone else.


I've used Level 10 products in the past, with great success. I've also had a Vigilante that needed to be re-stalled, because PI didn't set it up correctly for my mods. I had good results with Yank products as well. But this is not about domestic iron, this is about G35's.

 

The physics are the same. There's nothing special about the G35 compared to other late model cars on the road today. They all use similiar components and they all take to mods in similiar ways. It's not rocket science with these cars.

If your stall was wrong for you mods, then maybe you over/under estimated your car's powerband. Dynoing is key to selecting the right TC for your application.


Yes. A torque converter is a torque multiplication device. The higher the stall speed, the more torque multiplication you get. Adding 500-700rpms in stall speed is pretty significant in terms of launching torque. It's much more significant than just adding something like a deeper rear gear. The car may even be quicker from a roll is the TC is really efficent.

I'd suggest the TC and a tranny cooler (they're cheap) and then maybe the valvebody if you really want harder shifts. IMO, the tranny cooler is mandatory because higher stall TC develop more heat. Don't get too wild with the cooler though. Going too big won't allow your tranny fluid to achieve a stable operating temp.

 

Maybe a detailed build sheet and 2 dyno printouts was too much information for PI.....they screwed up, and I was without a racecar for 2 money brackets.

I thought your song was "our cars don't respond to mods"

BTW, modern (aftermarket) tranny coolers are available with a thermostatically controlled valve to prevent over-cooling. But I'm sure you knew that already.....

 

I never once said that.

 

Of course not, you typed it. Here are 2 of the threads you started on that very same subject:

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06/41253-people-talk-about-mods-adding-power-yet-no-dynos-track-times-support-claims.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/54506-just-curious-does-anyone-have-any-dyno-track-proof-gains-thier-udp.html

Isn't there another G35 site where you can spread your brand around? It ain't welcome here.

 

You've fallen in love with misconstruing my words Where's that cat fight smiley. For the 451st time I'm going to answer this question, not for you, but for the public since you seem hell bent on discrediting everything I say. I've never said the G35 "does not respond to ALL mods". I said the G35 (and lots of other late model cars) does not respond favorably to some mods and that it amazes me so many people believe butt dynos when there is no real proof "some" of these mods work. To me, gaining 8whp from a set of $1,200 shorty headers is not a favorable gain, but gaining 25whp from a $1,200 set of longtube headers is a favorable gain. What's favorable? That depends on the user. Gaining 8whp for 1000rpms in the powerband isn't going to make a car much quicker. Gaining 8whp across the whole powerband (ie plenum, spacer) will. That's a favorable gain.

When I say "if stock works best, then stock I'll stay", I'm not talking about keeping the car stock. I'm talking about if the OEM part works best, I'm staying OEM with that part. I figured that in you infinite wisdom you'd be able to figure that out. I guess I was wrong.


Diamondman

I apologize for whoring out your thread with this needless BS. If you have any questions and have faith I know what I'm talking about, feel free to PM me.

 

Gotta love it!...

I dunno DaveB, I think ChicagoX may have a point (from the way I read it)... Anyway, not trying to perpetuate the inevitable drama about to step forth - so I'll sit back and watch the sparks fly.

 

I value everyone's opinion. Just call me Switzerland I'll keep on researching until I have my plan of attack.

So, anyway...

Already ordered the 10 Wire GroundingGear Kit from Gord. Definitely doing the Z-Tube or UT-R CF Tube. Doesn't seem to be much diference except $. The obvious, some type of intake, not sure which one yet. Then the bigger mod, the tranny. TC Swap/Cooler should give me that hard launch I'm craving. Might do the valve body but I don't know if I have cash for everything yet.

The thing I am really fuzzy on is the ECU flash. People on the boards say that theirs no point in a flash unless you have all your mods. Well the reason I want the flash is to improve my shift. Is it a waste of money for me or could a flash actually solve my problems without thousands of dollars in mods?

Also, went to my local tuning shop in East Hartford, CT called XX-Tune. The shop looked extremely nice but the guys there were stuck-up. They treated me like a chump. It was very hard to get any information. Finally I just thanked them for all their help and wandered out. They didn't seem to care that I was about to drop a few grand at their shop. Guess I'll have to spend my money somewhere else I hope all tune shops are not like this...

One of the guys did say that their is a new flash coming out in a few months. Does anyone else know anything about this? I really don't trust anything they said.

 

***I value everyone's opinion. Just call me Switzerland I'll keep on researching until I have my plan of attack.***


Now you're getting it

 

They reason I originally mentioned ECU was because of the drive by wire issue it helps... the throttle opens farther and stays open. Also, the rev and speed limiters are increased. But indeed it's not worth it until you are done with mods (or at least done for now). Maybe I didn’t originally understand exactly what you were after. The way I thought I understood your concern it seemed ECU and valve body upgrade would be reasonably priced solution. TC is obviously the direction you were/are leaning…

I am absolutely no expert! And don’t profess to be – there are many guys out here that DO know their **** so keep researching – you’ll find the answers you need. I know it’s hard to sift through some of the BS though!

Good luck.

BTW, the “new flash” mentioned might be Stillen?… I heard that a few months back from a Stillen employee that will remain nameless. I have no idea what time frame. Probably shouldn’t even have mentioned it, maybe it’s not even true - oh well… if/when they release you can say you heard it here first (or second, if the other place you heard about was referring to Stillen too).