From what I've seen on the dyno, resetting at the drag strip can help especially because your reving so high. At worst, it could do nothing at all.

In fact, it might make a good test to try. Do 2 runs pre reset and do 2 runs post reset. ...might make a difference. Certaintly cant hurt.

 

Is the M45 sport faster than the G35 coupe?

 

Don't forget - every conversation on this neglect this - that the Tranny control unit (TCU) is VERY MUCH affected by an ECU reset IF you have an auto. Everyone that has an auto will very much see a performance difference from at least the tranny.

As far as the slam to CHEBESTO a few pages back. He's not Adam - he's a Tecnosquare (or was) employee that was involved in programming the ECU for the reflash people are paying $700 bucks for. There are few who may know more about the ECU than those at Techosquare.

After all they know the mapping - they know the variables involved and how inputs affect the map and the resultant output as they re-programmed it all and it works in cars being driven every day by some very big experts that stay away from this board becasue people who know little act like the saviour and seek disciples rather than allowing the free flowing exchange of ideas and the search for the right answer and generally create a bad environement for those with little patience for idiocy.

I find DaveB's findings very interesting as my car with an Injen intake after a reset would sound like a Cobra Mustang and then calm down after a week of low mile driving. Z tube is not as resonant as a stainless pipe and other factors must come into play so the variable change to much to make any sense of that tho..

 

I thought at WOT, it goes to the most aggressive timing no matter what?

 

I agree 100%! We don't need to ruin a nice enviroment we had here before all these new owners came on saying no way!

Anyways, my car after a reset is now doing 21+ mpg city driving. I do about 100 miles a day for work. Before I was only getting 18-19 at the most even with some highway. And mine is a 6MT.

 

So you'd prefer I and the other "newbies" like GeeWillikers left because we disagree with you? I may have to take back my thumbs up and point it sideways instead at Russell, aka He Who Asks You to Leave if You Disagree with Him Even if Your Opinion is Based on Real-World Experience.

C'mon now, you're better than that. And really, that newbie line is getting old. I've owned VQ35s longer than you have. Guaranteed. Does that make me more of an expert than you on this subject? Nope, no more than your off-center assertion that your February 2004 join date here makes your word law.

 

so to reset the ecu i should just disconnect the positive clamp fromt he battery for like 12hours or what?? and then another question is how do i drive the car after the ecu reset?? just normaly or get on it a little cmon people i got ****ty gas mileage i need all the help i can get

 

I'll do it next time I'm out at the track. It's worth a try. I'll do a couple runs and then reset it and make a couple runs.

 

If you have a OBDII scanner to read engine temps it would help greatly! The dash board indicator is useless for this application. Engine coolant temp is a very powerful variable on engine output.
Try to regulate to +/-2 deg F before each run.

Regulate everything as if you were doing a dyno comparison and you should get valid test results. (what ever valid results means)
You can also use a little statistics on your pre reset dispertion times Vs post reset dispertion times to try and dial out simple run to run variability. If your a good driver you won't have to worry about that though.

It sounds like you've done a lot of quarter mile runs.

 

I never inserted any names now did I JK? There are a few that are fine, and then there are a few that are a pain. I was just giving my opinion which I am allowed to do as I see fit. Nothing more, nothing less.

I owned a VQ since 1996, and many different varieties of VQs as well.

 

Instead of the pedal method, to have a fast ecu reset which works, disconnect both + and - off the battery. You need to remove the whole cover to do this part however to give you space. Then touch both cables together that go to the car (of course do not touch the terminals together on the battery itself), this will cause your car to drain immediately. It has worked everytime for me so far.

 

Another way to do the quick reset is just disconnect the negative terminal and tap the brakes for a fast discharge. You could also use the head lights or even the dome lights to discharge the capasitors.

 

Tony

I would think it would be nice if a post or a (sticky) could be made about this.
I believe a reset should be made after an install for many reasons.
My biggest question would be? Does the ECU resort back to the best Map" If the conditions are right? I did notice that after I installed the crawford headers and cats my car seemed to have a few different personalties tell I did a reset. IM not sure if it helped but it seemed there may have been a change. After driving for many miles I did notice what seemed to be a good tune. A post about what the ECU can do and what It can't do would be good for a lot of people. I believe Nissan knows what they are doing. Like all of us we want the best.
I have many questions about the ECU.
My butt dyno has never been close to what a true dyno has produce. Pasta

 

I probably won't take the laptop with me to the track to log/monitor, but I will keep the variability at a minimum to aleviate has much bias as possible. I usually give my cars 30-45 minutes cool down between runs, but sometimes I'll do back to back runs. I've run this car only once at the track and did a total of 4 passes. The engine was baking hot on all runs and my 14.4 was actually on a hotlap (ie back to back run). My G seems to be terribly consistent with my trap speeds only varying by about .5mph between runs which suggest I was making the same power on all the runs. The slowest the car has run was a 14.6 and that was with a crappy mid 2.3 60'.

 

Yes, it will eventually if there is no ping and you consistantly use a lead foot.