Unforced Induction
Unforced Induction
Tried the search but could't find what I want.
The more I research Superchargers,ST and TT's the more I hear of problems.
I'm wondering if it will be worth the cost and pain if it goes wrong.
As a result is there anyone who has stuck to the old fashioned NA mods such as Intake,exhaust,cams,porting etc?
If so what were the performance improvements like?
Anyone compared their 1/4mile times as they developed the car?
I know FI is the way to go but as my car will be a daily driver reliability is of prime importance.
The more I research Superchargers,ST and TT's the more I hear of problems.
I'm wondering if it will be worth the cost and pain if it goes wrong.
As a result is there anyone who has stuck to the old fashioned NA mods such as Intake,exhaust,cams,porting etc?
If so what were the performance improvements like?
Anyone compared their 1/4mile times as they developed the car?
I know FI is the way to go but as my car will be a daily driver reliability is of prime importance.
Well to get real power out of it you'd have to spend quite a bit...
Get new rods, cams, 11.5:1 pistons, heavy duty valve springs, titanium retainers, balance the engine and work on the breathing, probably CAI and a new plenum... You should be safe to 8000rpms with that just have to keep it making power.
Of course this would cost about what you'd pay for TT setup, but your car would scream.
Get new rods, cams, 11.5:1 pistons, heavy duty valve springs, titanium retainers, balance the engine and work on the breathing, probably CAI and a new plenum... You should be safe to 8000rpms with that just have to keep it making power.
Of course this would cost about what you'd pay for TT setup, but your car would scream.
There's an active post on my350z.com's FI forum right now about this very question. The concurrence between people that have already gone this path (and then ditched it) is that:
1. cost is too high
2. FI yields better performance/dollar
3. After so many rpm's the hp falls off
4. ECU won't work, neither will a piggyback
I'll see if I can find the link...
1. cost is too high
2. FI yields better performance/dollar
3. After so many rpm's the hp falls off
4. ECU won't work, neither will a piggyback
I'll see if I can find the link...
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131450
There you go. You'll have to register for that site (just like you do this one). Don't worry... it's owned by the same guy so if he's selling your personal info there, he's probably doing it here too.
There you go. You'll have to register for that site (just like you do this one). Don't worry... it's owned by the same guy so if he's selling your personal info there, he's probably doing it here too.
Thanks for the link Neffster.Very interesting.
I would prefer not to crack open the engine and stick to bolt ons etc.
Would 250RWHP be achievable this way?
Just enough to overcome the weight difference between G and Z maybe.
I got turned off fitting TT APS kit as they require me to send my car to them clear across the country Perth to Melbourne $800 each way by truck plus $15,000 to fit and tune. Thats just too much when the car will cost me $42000 to buy (all figures Aussie dollars)
They will not sell me a ST kit as they are not developed with cat converters but will fit in their Melbourne workshop for "only" $13,500 (why would I ?)
All the Supercharger kits have problems the Vortech seeming the best but it has Belt issues I hear plus it relies on a very crude form of engine management (retard on boost and rising rate fuel pressure) yuck!
Appologies to anyone happy with their Vortech (I did say it was the best)
There is Stillen of course but a new hood is not an option for me.
I would prefer not to crack open the engine and stick to bolt ons etc.
Would 250RWHP be achievable this way?
Just enough to overcome the weight difference between G and Z maybe.
I got turned off fitting TT APS kit as they require me to send my car to them clear across the country Perth to Melbourne $800 each way by truck plus $15,000 to fit and tune. Thats just too much when the car will cost me $42000 to buy (all figures Aussie dollars)
They will not sell me a ST kit as they are not developed with cat converters but will fit in their Melbourne workshop for "only" $13,500 (why would I ?)
All the Supercharger kits have problems the Vortech seeming the best but it has Belt issues I hear plus it relies on a very crude form of engine management (retard on boost and rising rate fuel pressure) yuck!
Appologies to anyone happy with their Vortech (I did say it was the best)
There is Stillen of course but a new hood is not an option for me.
Originally Posted by socalsean
Hell....cut a hole in your hood!
sean
sean
I could change my nic to Mad Max then.
(Early Aussie movie with Mel Gibson before his first shave ...us old blokes may remember it)
Last edited by AussieV35; Jul 12, 2005 at 07:28 PM.
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250rwhp is very reasonable on a loaded Mustang Dyno (they read the lowest of the dynos I'm familiar with).
I'd start my modding spree with lighter weight rims and tires. The smaller the diameter the better. Then from there I'd do: intake, plenum, headers, high flow cats, (y-pipe or full exhaust).
This would put you close to 250rwhp. From there, if you've got the cash, you could do: light weight flywheel and clutch, cams, and follow it up with an ECU reflash with a higher rpm to allow the cams to really come alive.
I don't think a larger throttle body is really a way to go with this car (opinion I've gathered from reading), but could be wrong...
This should put you near 270rwhp on a load based Mustang dyno (again, if you use a dyno jet you might be near 290rwhp or if you use a dynapack you'd be well over 300rwhp).
How's that for a simple road map?
I'd start my modding spree with lighter weight rims and tires. The smaller the diameter the better. Then from there I'd do: intake, plenum, headers, high flow cats, (y-pipe or full exhaust).
This would put you close to 250rwhp. From there, if you've got the cash, you could do: light weight flywheel and clutch, cams, and follow it up with an ECU reflash with a higher rpm to allow the cams to really come alive.
I don't think a larger throttle body is really a way to go with this car (opinion I've gathered from reading), but could be wrong...
This should put you near 270rwhp on a load based Mustang dyno (again, if you use a dyno jet you might be near 290rwhp or if you use a dynapack you'd be well over 300rwhp).
How's that for a simple road map?
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