<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Remove both battery cables from the vehicle battery, touch the neg and pos together for 5 seconds, then drive the car around like Mario Andretti. It may run a little rough, beacuse the computers will be self learning.

<hr></blockquote>That's the reset procedure for the VW and Audis as well. And yes, they also run VERY rough after this procedure. The tach fluctuates all over the place for the first while. Needs several applications at WOT to figure out what to do. Not sure why I never tried this in the G before.

<font color=blue>[i]GroundingGear™ Equipped </font color=blue>

 

you mean no more 24 hours?
just touch it for 5 second then take it off again, then reconnect it?

 

Vinnie,

I tried it. The positive was a bear to get off of the post.
Got both + and - off of their posts and at first they would
not reach eachother. After some wiggling around, I was able
to get the very edges of them to touch. Held them together
for five plus seconds and then reattached them to their posts.
Started the car. The idle did not act erratically, so I had my
doubts. Went for a drive. When accelerating, the tranny
ran the gears up pretty high in rpm before shifts. Question:
What have we been doing with the easy ECU reset via the
pedal movements? Does the 12 hour battery disconnect
also reset the ECU/TCU?

2003 TwBlue 5AT Sedan, sunroof,
Graphite Leather, splashguards, HKS exhaust,
14 wire Grounding kit, 350Z duct, Stillen CAI
Underbody rear diffusers, Drilled alum pedals

 

ROFL!!! OMG, you guys can't be serious.

 

Never heard of the battery disconnected for 12 hour thing. There are several ways to erase the short fuel trim the batter cable deal will erase everything. Much like reformating your computer, it lets you start from scratch. And yes I am sure the gas pedal thing just calibrates it

 

gsedanman (or anyone else for that matter),

What exactly do you suppose is happening when you reset the ECU on a 6MT? You are not changing the shift points of the tranny (I do that manually), and the MAF sensor is independently controlled (It is not "Controlled" by the ECU, but simply measures air flow across its sensor and reports it's findings to the ECU).

I propose that NOTHING happens on a 6MT when the reset is performed. If you think I'm mistaken, please provide reasoning (preferably mechanical/electrical reasons why)

Thanks,
Neffster

2004 Infiniti G35C-6MT
LR | Willow | Premium | Aero | Splash | BSM
30% Lumar Tint | Invinca Shield (C-Bra)
Z-Tube | JWT Pop Charger | RT Cats | Crawford Plenum | JIC Y-Pipe (STILL on order)

 

If you don't have an error, there is no reason to reset your ECU except under the conditions enumerated in what I've pasted below, straight from the service manual.

A master technician has told me that the MAF will adapt to the air coming into it within 5 seconds. The short term ECU functions such as O2 measurement and patterns happen in the 5 to 10 second realm as well. So if you alter the airflow of your G in anyway, and you can't wait 10 seconds, by all means reset your ECU. I won't get into the TCU because I don't want to confuse the issue, but it is the only thing that "adapts" to driver behavior.

As you can see, all of these reset have nothing to do with making your car more powerful or responsive. They will not improve your mileage, they will not make your engine growl more loudly, they will not give you any HP. They have to do with erasing error codes and controlling your idle speed mainly (the throttle is drive by wire, remember?) Enjoy.

"Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning

Description:
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.


Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Description:
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning

Description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)
- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)
- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)
- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
- Vehicle speed: Stopped
- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position)
Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position)
Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position)

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2. Check PCV valve operation.
3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable.
5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again:

- Engine stalls.
- Erroneous idle."

 

What this reflash does is erases all memory in the ECM. The computer does learn how you drive and adapts the computer to it. DOes it give more power, no it doesnt. But it will improve response time to throttle shift petterns, etc...With the manual trnasmission, it will reset the all ECM functions. Even the MAF, anything controlled by the ECM it reflashes. My friend is an Engineer with Infiniti in Atlanta and he supplies me with this info. Anything I say online here is something I have already tried. Remeber, anyone can get access to the service manuals, but there are other things the factory wont spill to the public.

 

"With the manual trnasmission, it will reset the all ECM functions. Even the MAF, anything controlled by the ECM it reflashes"

That's right....and the MAF reacts instantly to the incoming air because it needs to send what can be only one correct signal to the injectors. There are also short term functions the ECU performs that operate in the 5-10 second realm.

My point is the following: Resetting your ECU (pretend we're only talking about a 6MT) is pointless when making performance mods to your airflow unless you cannot wait 10 seconds for the MAF and ECU to begin compensating.

 

From all of us here on G35driver.com, thank you for
sharing this knowledge with us! Keep lurking around,
you are an invaluable board member.

2003 TwBlue 5AT Sedan, sunroof,
Graphite Leather, splashguards, HKS exhaust,
14 wire Grounding kit, 350Z duct, Stillen CAI
Underbody rear diffusers, Drilled alum pedals

 

i tried that method that the infinititech said to do, but my rpm's weren't erratic like he said. do you think i did it right? i touched both cables together.

 

You did it right. It depends on where you live. Obviously if you live in Colorado where the air is thin, you may encounter idle concerns breifly. I live in California and mine didnt run rough either. So yes you did perform it correctly.

 

InfinitiTech,

Pardon me being a little sceptical about what you're saying, and I understand that disconnecting the battery and touching the leads together may very well reset the ECU quickly, but we have it from other forums such as Freshalloy and My350Z.com and from Technosquare -- www.technosquareinc.com/ -- that our procedures and results are indeed real and useful and for over 2 yrs now we been enjoying those results.

You do understand that for a long time now, members have reported back good, and effective results from our resets and now you've come along and said it's all bunk.

Your credentials tell me you should know more than me on this, but I can't ignore all the positive feedback we've got over the years, and from members of other forums and companies.

Perhaps a little proof of your claims would be more convincing.
Until then I won't turn my back on what's worked for a long time.

Don't get me wrong, we're still looking for solid info from Nissan which as you've said is scarce, so all we've got to work with (so far) is our ESM's and experience.

Feel free to post what info you have.
Thank you
Gsedanman

<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>

 

So...if i installed a CAI...what kind of reseting should i do? Or do i actually have to do any reseting for the car to recognize a CAI is there...

 

You don't need to reset anything. Your MAF will measure more mass of air coming in (that's why it's called a Mass Airflow sensor) and tell the ECU to tell the injectors to spray more fuel. This adjustment will take seconds, not minutes. Flame away.