According to the service manual it clears error codes among other useful information, as an earlier poster pointed out citing the service manual.

I don't want it to drive as aggressively as possible, I just want it to drive like I drive 95% of the time, which is the whole point of that feature, right? I also want it to quickly downshift with little coaxing so I can shoot the gap in between the doofus in the left lane with the cruise control on and the guy in the middle lane riding his brakes, right? Maybe that's one thing you mean by aggressively as possible. Is a fresh ECU the optimal way to get quick downshifts?

If I want it to drive as aggresively as possible (WOT), I change to manual mode and shift at peak torque points.

Unless an ECU alters fuel/air mixture or timing based on driving habits, I also fail to see why it would have any effect on a 6MT. My understanding from Infiniti is that only shift points are implicated in the algorithms. Anyone have any hard evidence otherwise?

 

The TCU gets softer unless you hammer it all the time...the shifts are considerably longer and more painful. If you want the best repsonse - a freshly reset ECU (and TCU by default) is the way to go. That way you can drive it however you want and once the car granny's on you just reset it again to keep the fire in it for when you need it.

Even in manumatioc mode the ecu and tcu get softer over time unless you kill it. With a reset ecu you dont need manumatic for better response.



2003.5 DP Sedan (Everything but Nav)
Injen CAI
7 Wire HyperGround (Soon to be 10)
Crawford Plenum (V4)
H-Liner
Polk Tweeter Upgrade (EX-3500)
Coming Soon: Lite Crank Pulley, Motion Sensor

 

Hope this isn't a duplicate, my first attempt didn't post.... by "longer" shifts do you mean it stays in a gear a longer time before it shifts or do you mean the transition between gears takes longer? I'll wait until I hit 1500 miles or so and give it a try, thanks for the comments. BTW, what is a TCU?

 

With the reset, you get firmer, shorter shifting from one gear to the next. Over time, unless you drive hard all the time, the shifts 'soften' and take longer to transition.
The TCU is the transmission control unit. It receives info from the ECU and governs tranny functions.

<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>


But then I tried the remove ECU fuse (15A in engine compartment and 10A in interior) wait 3 min, start car (won't start only cranks), wait 3 minutes, replace fuse and restart engine

<hr></blockquote>

This worked for my 04 5AT sedan and I find it best choice to reset ECU besides disconnecting the battery.

04 G35s 5AT

 

I have read this thread and will be attempting the ECU reset at sometime in the very near future.

One question.

When it says press the gas pedal, how many RPMs should I push the gas pedal? Is the desired RPM changing at all during the process?

Also, should I do an ECU reset immediately following picking the car up from the dealership? I dunno, I could justify it either way I guess.

Thanks,
-Chris

 

Chris,
I'm glad you haven't done this yet because It's done with just the key on, not the engine.
No need to do it during the break-in period, but it won't hurt to do so.

<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>

 

Yeah, someone else did this with the engine on as well. We figured out what he was doing when he asked if it's supposed to hit the rev limiter so much!

<font color=blue>[i]GroundingGear™ Equipped </font color=blue>

 

D'oh. Thanks for the clarification.

-Chris

 

here's my take on this. we all know one of the ecu's function is to control and adjust the fuel needed depending on how much air you put in. if you altered air/fuel mixture due to intakes, etc., then an ecu reset can give you immediate results since it doesn't have any old data and has a clean slate to start with. but it will still adjust itself automatically even if you dont reset it.

if you're stock, im not sure how this will help you, except maybe for the first few miles you drive it WOT. but why bother? im talking stick, maybe on the AT's it resets something in the tranny too? i dont know.

w/ FI, im not sure how much fuel our ecu is programmed to match the boost coming in w/o having to upgrade it.





4020 P3MCG6T5I

 

Umm guys,
This procedure isnt for resetting the ECM, it is for resetting the electronic gas pedal perameters. Trust me I have wrenched on these cars for 8 years now.Vinie

 

Have a look in our ECU reset thread in FAQ/DIY for our procedures and tell us if they're on the mark or not please. We've always assumed these were good, and seemed to give positive results and are widely used by many members both here and on other G and Z forums.
Thanks for your input.

Link to our ECU Reset Thread

<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=red>GSM</font color=red>
<font color=black>Silverstone Coupe</font color=black>

 

Please tell us how to do the ECU reset properly!

2003 TwBlue 5AT Sedan, sunroof,
Graphite Leather, splashguards, HKS exhaust,
12 wire Grounding kit, 350Z duct, Stillen CAI
Underbody rear diffusers, Drilled alum pedals

 

Okay good news guys. I have just tested on a 2004 G35 coupe and confirmed it works. To completely reset your ECM and TCM in your vehicles without going to a dealership. Remove both battery cables from the vehicle battery, touch the neg and pos together for 5 seconds, then drive the car around like Mario Andretti. It may run a little rough, beacuse the computers will be self learning. Any other tech questions feel free to contact me......Vinnie

 

So you are certain that the pedal reset is bogus? Will you state whether the ECU is adaptive or is it simply the TCU for 5ats?

2003.5 DP Sedan (Everything but Nav)
Injen CAI
10 Wire HyperGround
Crawford Plenum (V4)
H-Liner
Polk Tweeter Upgrade (EX-3500)
Coming Soon: Lite Crank Pulley, Motion Sensor